Put the filter just off the pump and run a new line up to carb. If this is where it was with the other carb how is it going to help by moving it? Just a thought.

I am inclined to think your running lean.

Hay Paul ......

HOW MANY people have to tell-you .....you are probably running WAAAY lean !!

Take it out again ...and CHECK THE PLUGS.

You can use a hand held propane torch, with the flame turned off, just a light breeze of propane to prevent that when you detect leaks.

Or even a spray bottle of water. That should create a stumble in rpm's instead of an increase in rpm's when you found the leak?

Yes, I think it is vapor lock, and yes, I'm having identical problems with my 360 and AVS. The puller mechanical fuel pump is made to pump liquid, it cannot pump vapor. So yes, high temps anywhere along the fuel line can be heating the E10 gas to the boiling point, and then you're stuck until things cool down. I have tried insulating my fuel line under hood without significant improvement. A very good point was made about the metal fuel filter attracting heat. They used to make a plastic filter with the same dimensions. I may try and find one of those and paint it silver??? My best solution may be to swap my stock 22" 3 core radiator with a new 22 or 26" 4 row core when I can get some money together.

The only way I could run a Carter on hot day at the track was with electric pump and cool can and ice. Try blocking the heat passage that will help and a electric pump will also help. I would place the Holley back on and run it screw the factory look when you are involved in wreck due to carb vapor lock its not worth it. I'm now running a 195 stat on 93 degree days and not having any problems at all with my 340 with a Holley and a spacer and todays crap gas

try a glass see through type filter to see if fuel is boiling off or getting to the carb. This will close in on where your problem is. You will then know what the lean condition is related too. Can easily be put back to stock appearing once the problem is fixed.

If all that was changed was the carb, I say it's lean. Lean condition WILL make your engine hot.

1. Take a propane torch, unlit, and check for vacuum leaks, leaks can cause a lean condition. Once you are satisfied there are no leaks I would look at the carb.

2. After the carb was rebuilt it was probably set to factory specs, which is a baseline, it still has to be tuned to the engine. You have to adjust the metering tree UP to richen it. There is a screw down in the little hole above the metering tree. It requires a small screwdriver to access. It could be you need to adjust your accelerator pump as well.

Hay M C ...

EXSIST ....or EXIST ?

oops!