Just had my 800 TQ restored. Runs great around the neighborhood but got back from a 40 mile trip in 85 degree temps. Shifted in 1st & 2nd, no problem but the hotter it got had all kinds of stuttering and bogging and drowneding. Couldn't get any faster than 40-42 mph. I stopped for 10 minutes, it got better for the next mile, barrely got up the hills. Engine temp was fine on the gauge, engine compartment is very hot. Was the gas boiling? Thanks

Better verify your coolant temp. Thermoquads are the best carb for hot temps because of the plastic center section. Fuel stays a good bit cooler. Sounds like your problem lies elsewhere unless the carb rebuild was goofed up.

NEED more info ......like ...

Is the carb tooo hot to touch ? ... is the intake exh-heat crossover open? .. how hot is that? what is the water temp?

WHO did the restro on the carb?

I would think vapor lock will be a fuel line heat problem not a carb trouble. Silly question but did you look at the choke to make sure it was wide open?

Heated fuel line ? ...could be. Something for him to check. ALSO see how hot the fuel pump is. The choke-blade? ... also something to check .. but if it was closed(or close to-it) .. there would be tons of black-smoke.

LEADS to another Q ...what type of choke are you using ?

OK, Scott Smith @ Harms did the resto, he has been a wealth of info. The car doesnot run hot on the temp gauge, heat crossover is open and has burned the newly powder coated intake, stock divorced choke is working and seems to be closing and opening correctly BUT everything is scorching HOT...the air cleaner, all the hoses and gas line. I'll check cooling fluid,again.

2

ONE HUNDRED and THREE degrees in TX ? ....DAMN.

It is a nice 84 here

Those are the factory stock TQ fuel lines. That pic doesn't show the vac advance hose which is now conected. Has nothing to do with my issue. Before the TQ I had a 670 Holley and never had any hot issues.

Regarding gaskets. Ihave a thin cork gasket above and below a wood fibre type 1/2" thick spacer.

You might have a vacuum leak making it go lean ...and then really HOT. OR ... the carb itself is lean.

How do the plugs look? ...

I'm do for plugs. Should I go a couple of levels colder? If the engine just wants to be hot, should the colder plugs help?

How do the plugs "read" ? .... 1 or 2 steps colder would not hurt.

I would look more-for a vac-leak though.

Vacuum Leaks...effin things. A so-called friend took a can of carb cleaner or brake clean and sprayed it at my newly resto TQ ! Now the phenolic is fogged.

I think you need to get your underhood temps in check. Your other posts regarding heat problems are probably related to this problem. Get that motor and the engine compartment as cool as you can first then see where you're at.

Quote:

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Before the TQ I had a 670 Holley and never had any hot issues.

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I would assume carb if you had no previous issues. Have you tuned the carb to the engine? If not start there, you may have a lean condition. Are there any other symptoms such as stumbling on take off? TQ's are tricky to tune but I like mine.

I think we got the carb tuned to the engine, one more tweak to the secondaries. No stumbling until the engine got real hot. I want it to look pure stock but i'm going to reroute the fuel filter away from the heater hoses.

Put the filter just off the pump and run a new line up to carb. If this is where it was with the other carb how is it going to help by moving it? Just a thought.

I am inclined to think your running lean.

Hay Paul ......

HOW MANY people have to tell-you .....you are probably running WAAAY lean !!

Take it out again ...and CHECK THE PLUGS.

You can use a hand held propane torch, with the flame turned off, just a light breeze of propane to prevent that when you detect leaks.

Or even a spray bottle of water. That should create a stumble in rpm's instead of an increase in rpm's when you found the leak?

Yes, I think it is vapor lock, and yes, I'm having identical problems with my 360 and AVS. The puller mechanical fuel pump is made to pump liquid, it cannot pump vapor. So yes, high temps anywhere along the fuel line can be heating the E10 gas to the boiling point, and then you're stuck until things cool down. I have tried insulating my fuel line under hood without significant improvement. A very good point was made about the metal fuel filter attracting heat. They used to make a plastic filter with the same dimensions. I may try and find one of those and paint it silver??? My best solution may be to swap my stock 22" 3 core radiator with a new 22 or 26" 4 row core when I can get some money together.

The only way I could run a Carter on hot day at the track was with electric pump and cool can and ice. Try blocking the heat passage that will help and a electric pump will also help. I would place the Holley back on and run it screw the factory look when you are involved in wreck due to carb vapor lock its not worth it. I'm now running a 195 stat on 93 degree days and not having any problems at all with my 340 with a Holley and a spacer and todays crap gas

try a glass see through type filter to see if fuel is boiling off or getting to the carb. This will close in on where your problem is. You will then know what the lean condition is related too. Can easily be put back to stock appearing once the problem is fixed.

If all that was changed was the carb, I say it's lean. Lean condition WILL make your engine hot.

1. Take a propane torch, unlit, and check for vacuum leaks, leaks can cause a lean condition. Once you are satisfied there are no leaks I would look at the carb.

2. After the carb was rebuilt it was probably set to factory specs, which is a baseline, it still has to be tuned to the engine. You have to adjust the metering tree UP to richen it. There is a screw down in the little hole above the metering tree. It requires a small screwdriver to access. It could be you need to adjust your accelerator pump as well.

Hay M C ...

EXSIST ....or EXIST ?

oops!