I installed front and rear disc brakes on my 72 Swinger.
Can I remove the proportioning valve and just tee the front and union the rear brake lines?
Also , I was told I can take the proportioning valve out of the block and use it that way. Would that be alright?
This valve block has the warning light also.

4 wheel discs! yeah I'm fixin to try that myself mainly cause of all the naysayers . As you know the M/C half next to the firewall goes to the front discs and the other half to the rear. I get the "metering" and "proportioning" functions mixed up & it'd be nice to keep the warning light but if there is no residual pressure in the disc system (check the M/C, stick a drill bit into the brass seats) I'd actually try it as is & see how it acts. I have a 65 Dart w 74 dart discs (semi met pads) up front w 10" drums w stock linings in the rear and I kept the stock (9" drum splitter) & no probs around town and on the interstate but no panic stops (wet or dry) as of yet. I'd experiment and go from there. Holler how it does

Ed,....on a 4 wheel disc brake set-up if you sized the calipers right (fluid volume wise front to rear) you can eliminate the proportioning valve or distribution block that was in your system,....you can Tee the front line off to each front wheel, the rear line can come directly off the master to the rear....



If you have access to/ or purchase a hydraulic rated gauge that goes up to 2000 psi, after bleeding your system, you can test the pressure bias of the front vs the rear, and wheel to wheel, to know exactly what your system is produceing,....look for a minimum 60/40 to a maximum 70/30 front/rear prefered bias ratio so that your vehicles braking is optimized

Mike

Boy did I type that wrong. I need to clarify some. The car came with front discs. I switched to Wilwoods in front and Dr Diff's setup in the rear. I also installed the Wilwood 7/8" bore MC.
I was thinking that I could remove the proportioning valve and use it that way.

Yes. I believe the Dr Diff rear kit uses the small diameter piston caliper from Ford, so you gut your prop valve so it turns into a distribution block. I'm using the Summit rear kit which is that same caliper and thats what I did. Rear dosent lock up early on mine, but I have OEM slider calpiers up from (Large pistons).

I used the OEM prop valve (gutted) so the stock lines would bolt up. On the prop valve there is a large nut. Open that nut and a spring and rubber disk should come out. Removing those will make the rear line straight thru like a distribution block.

You should find out if the MC is for drum rear. If so, there may be a residual valve in the rear port that maybe you can remove.

Residual valve holds some pressure in the line to keep the drum brakes expanded a little. You dont need that with disc calipers.

Boy did I type that wrong. I need to clarify some. The car came with front discs. I switched to Wilwoods in front and Dr Diff's setup in the rear. I also installed the Wilwood 7/8" bore MC.
I was thinking that I could remove the proportioning valve and use it that way.

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Regardless of the way you typed it,...it was fully understood that you had a 4 wheel disc set up,.....you can eliminate the proportioning valve, if you wish to "gut" it as described above, do so,........but the factory PV is no longer needed

Mike

You should find out if the MC is for drum rear. If so, there may be a residual valve in the rear port that maybe you can remove.

Residual valve holds some pressure in the line to keep the drum brakes expanded a little. You dont need that with disc calipers.

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I've "yet" to see a master that has a residual valve for the rear line,...I know a drum/drum master has a residual valve located in the line port, and must be removed when adding discs to the FRONT of a drum/drum car, if the master is not changed over to a correct Disc/Drum master

Mike

Thank you for your advise. I will give that a try. As for the mc I will check with Wilwood.