I would like some input from you guys on building a new short block. what size, whose rotating assembly, what machine work, camshaft etc.
Currently I am running a 470ci with 12.7 compresion, indy sr heads with some mild port work,ultra-dyne roller [Email]278@50[/Email] and .680 lift both on the intake and exhaust, the intake is a victor intake with a flying toilet on top, headers are 2 1/8" with 4" collectors poweglide trans with 1.80 low gear. Currently the car runs 5.90 to 5.95 @ 117 to 120mph depending on the weather.
The car is a 69 dart with a full tube chassis strut front with 4-link rear, the cars weight is approx. 2780lbs with me in it. I would like to stay with a low deck. I was looking at Muscle motors 511 rotating assembly. Thoughts good,bad?
Thanks ahead of time for the suggestions. Joe

mine is a 499 with a stock block and 13.0-1. dont know how long this will last, but i would go with an aftermarket block to go any bigger.

this is -1 heads and 284,288 at .684 cam making about 750hp

What kind of block mods? What does that motor run in your digger?

5.0x @134 at 1850 lbs

align hone, bored 4.375,hardblock to the water pump holes,decked to 0(w/flat tops),reamed oil holes to feed crank,main girdle,block oil feed on left lifter passage.

that is all i can think of right now, let me know if i can help.

Nobody else has any opinions? There are alot of knowledgable people on this sight. I was hoping some more of you would share some of that knowledge as I am fairly new to the big blocks, I have always run small blocks until the current 470. I would like to get this car into the 5.70s

It's Saturday...Only the lame are around the internet to post their opinions. Don't take it personal. Very nice looking car BTW. Your gonna need about 750 HP to meet your goals. The SR's can get you there, maybe take a look at AndyF's book. If I were you I'd go right to an aftermarket block and good steel rods for a number of reasons.(I'm not gonna list them because I'm going out too.)

I originally built a pump gas 511 CI low deck stroker for my street car, ported, polished, big valves 906 iron heads with standard size 440 ports. solid roller cam with a six pak, 9.25 to 1 comp. ratio, that motor made 612 HP at 5600 RPM and 644 ft. lbs at 4500 RPM on CA pump gas I later hopped that motor up by increasing the stroke to 4.300(from 4.250) and changed the heads to a set of CNC ported Eddy RPM with 440 size ports,(10.29 to 1 Comp ratio, still a pump gas motor ) that woke the motor up to where it made 718 HP at 5800 RPM and 740+ ft. lbs at 4700 RPM on pump gas. Are your SR max wedge size or 440 size? Are you running gas, alcholol or E 85? I have built many different combinations of BB for different application, I have a 526 C.I. 440 block that has a set of M.W. size SR on it that is a bracket race motor run on race gasoline, it is right at 13.0 to comp. ratio. It made 775 HP on a DTS engine dyno in Klamath Falls (4300 FT above sea level)last summer with a single 1050 CFM dominator and and 805 HP using Indy tunnel ram with two 1050 Dominators on it. Earlier that year I built and dynoed a 470 C.I. (3.91 stroke, 4.80 bore , 440 bock) bracket motor with B1-BS heads that had been CNC ported to M.W. by MCH, that motor had a custom built tunnel ram with a set of 750 Holley D.P. set up by JET racing, it made 721 HP at 7000 RPM, we quit pulling the motor at that RPM per the customers desires, it had not reach peak HP yet at that RPM Bottom line I would build the motor as big as I could and make sure the heads are max out also, big motors need big air, big cams,big exhaust and so on I like 4.300 or a 4.375 stroke in a 400 block with a 6.700 long H beam rod with chevy rod journal sizes and ,990 wrist pins, small as possible combustion chamber sizes and as much compression as you can run on the fuel you want to race with

Currently the heads are standard port size. I was planning on having the heads opened up to max wedge size. Who does the best work on the sr heads and what kind of money am I looking at for the port work?
The Fying toilet is set up for alcohol.
The reason I was looking at the 511 is I figured I could put a girdle on the motor and fill the block and still be fairly reliable.With the 4.25 stroke I thought it would make good power and not have to twist the piss out of it. I figure I need to pick up about 100hp over the current 470 to hit the 570s
This is going to be my motor for next season but I would like to start getting the parts together a little at a time so it dosen't hurt the pocket book all at once.
Again who do you guys suggest for a well machined rotating assembly and what brand K1, eagle, compstar etc.

I was very happy with the service and advise from Eric and Mike at Muscle Motors...

Quote:

---

I would like to stay with a low deck.

---

Here is an idea:

Indy MAXX low deck aluminum block, 4.44-4.50" bore.
Callies 4.250" stroke crankshaft
6.535" long rods (BB Chevy +.400", 2.200", 0.990")
For alcohol, get the CR up to 14 or so. I like the Fyling Toilet Injection

Max Wedge port the heads, intake to match. Should be pretty stout! Check with Jeff at Modern Cylinder Head for port work.

Mr.Cab, you have some pretty good info. Your sr headed motor seems to make some pretty good steam.

Jim I wish I could afford a indy or world block but the price is just out of my budget currently. The reasons I would like to stay with a low deck are, 1)my headers are custom made and sit very close to the frame an floor, 2) I already have 2 400 blocks. 3)I have 2 intakes already drilled for injection and it would save a little $. 4) from what I have read the 400 is a little stronger in the main area? What combination are you running that motor is plenty stout to move a heavy car that quick.
Looks like Jeff at Modern Cylinder Head has a good rep!

For anything over 700 HP I would stray away from a stock block. It may cost you more in the long run than a good aftermarket block up front.

Nice looking ride BTW

440 source for the last 3 years. no problem so far in deferent costumers cars