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if you're running springs from back in '99, don't you think it's time to replace? soft springs that allow valve bounce are hard on the locks & when that fails the valve falls into the cylinder. thats expensive by comparission to new springs & locks. ask me how i know!

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ask me how i know too.....

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thanks for the reply, But I'm not sure what you mean by "But take away some of the deflection and lash and you will be ok." I lash at .007 to .009 cold as per Crane for alumin. heads.

thanks

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I will try to elaborate some. The cam card gives a Gross Valve lift. These numbers given are specs given for a certain cams installation..
Things like Intake center line does effect lift.
Rocker arms ratios also effect lift.
You are correct by figuring in the extra growth for aluminum heads. .006 is a good number.
So what ever the hot lash setting is you would normally adjust the rockers that number minus the .006 for a cold setting.
You will verify this during initial start to see what it actual lash is, or has grown then adjust as needed.

So if the cam calls for .022 hot, you will still subtract this from the lift on the cam card.
Also it is very doubtful that that everything is exact with rocker ratios too.
This is why I like to throw a dial indicator on a valve retainer and check net lift.
This is easily done with standard cam degreeing kits, and really lets ou now what you have.
Now during a running engine these numbers will be different also. You would be surprised the amount of push rod flex and loss of lift that occurs in a engine.
I think it was DTHEMI that experimented with push rod size and found a considerable amount of power with the only change of push rods.
Lots of guys run the .080 thick push rods, which make up most of what you get from Indy, and standard push rods.
Push rods are over looked a bunch in a engine. I mean you see guys with Jesel Rocker Arms, and crappy pushrods.
My Last Wedge with Jesel Rockers had .130 wall Manton pushrods. They were just a fraction more money that the Indy Cut to fit kit, and offered a huge advantage in strength.
The Hemi I just finished has the longest pushrods I have ever used in a engine at well over 11 inches. The longer they are the stronger they need to be.
I would say a .080 thick wall push rod would be plenty for a small block.
They were $200 shipped from Manton, and heck those Indy push rods are $190 last time I checked.

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the engine only has twelve runs on it. its been in storage since then. being turned over every couple months.

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