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Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: MarPar] #700595
05/20/10 03:49 PM
05/20/10 03:49 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,164
Los Angeles, CA
JF_Moparts Offline
super stock
JF_Moparts  Offline
super stock

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,164
Los Angeles, CA
Quote:

How bout this kit?? it's got pretty much everything i want...except that it's poly and not rubber bushings i know it's pretty far away from the stock set i was looking at, but it looks like it would be pretty bad-ass...

http://www.justsuspension.com/the-works-kit-for-mopar.html





Wow, that's a lot! I thought you only wanted a little upgrade.

If you're willing to replace everything like that, I'd piece it together differently:


- A front end bushing rebuild kit from PST or Just Suspension

- 1.00" torsion bars

- Geometry corrected upper arms from Hotchkis

- Hotchkis tie rod end kit

- Upgrade to a 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" front anti-sway bar

- Upgrade to the 73' & up disk brakes, ala the Rick Ehrenberg disk brake swap. (You need 73-74 E or A body disk brake spindles, which can be a challenge to find. Other parts aren't too hard to find like calipers, master cylinder, etc) The exact article is here:
http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

- Decent shocks (talk to Hotchkis) or go with KYB to save $

- Hemi rear springs

- A 7/8" rear anti-sway bar

If you want fast ratio steering:

- A firm feel steering box (at least level 2 or 3)

- Fast ratio pitman and idler arms


Some of the above will be expensive (Hotchkis) and others will be cheap (disk brake swap). The Just Susp. works kit is very good, but Hotchkis has some better worthwhile stuff.

Jim

Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: autoxcuda] #700596
05/20/10 03:51 PM
05/20/10 03:51 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,164
Los Angeles, CA
JF_Moparts Offline
super stock
JF_Moparts  Offline
super stock

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,164
Los Angeles, CA
Quote:

Quote:

Do you mean 1.10" torsion bars? If so, those seem kinda harsh. What's that, like 270 lbs/inch?

...







I think I'm going to try these in the shorter A-body length T-bars (stiffer) and see what happens. The worst I could do is crack the car in half.




Wow - those are about 340 lbs/inch, by my reckoning!

Jim

Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: autoxcuda] #700597
05/20/10 04:36 PM
05/20/10 04:36 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
68HemiB Offline
master
68HemiB  Offline
master

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
Quote:



I think I'm going to try these in the shorter A-body length T-bars (stiffer) and see what happens. The worst I could do is crack the car in half.




Steve, you need to think outside the box, and jump TWO squares ahead. Set it to your desired ride height...




...then weld the LCA to the K member.

None of that pesky suspension travel to fuss with!














Down to just a blue car now.
Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: MarPar] #700598
05/20/10 04:43 PM
05/20/10 04:43 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
68HemiB Offline
master
68HemiB  Offline
master

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
Quote:

How bout this kit?? it's got pretty much everything i want...except that it's poly and not rubber bushings i know it's pretty far away from the stock set i was looking at, but it looks like it would be pretty bad-ass...




There is both a poly and a rubber bushing camp around here. I am firmly in the latter camp.

You don't need to get a "kit" with everything. I would consider staying with the first kit you picked, and go get some sway bar stuff elsewhere.

It's okay to do it partially or completely a la carte. Really.


Down to just a blue car now.
Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: 68HemiB] #700599
05/20/10 04:43 PM
05/20/10 04:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
Penguin-hating Ginger
OzHemi  Offline
Penguin-hating Ginger

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
Quote:

Quote:



I think I'm going to try these in the shorter A-body length T-bars (stiffer) and see what happens. The worst I could do is crack the car in half.




Steve, you need to think outside the box, and jump TWO squares ahead. Set it to your desired ride height...




...then weld the LCA to the K member.

None of that pesky suspension travel to fuss with!

















And go with some 25 series tires to truely get the "road feel"



Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: 68HemiB] #700600
05/21/10 01:16 PM
05/21/10 01:16 PM
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 65
GTXtacy, IL
M
MarPar Offline OP
member
MarPar  Offline OP
member
M

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 65
GTXtacy, IL
Ok, so that kit was a little overboard..LOL

I think i will stick the first kit from Bill Rolik with some Spicer MADE IN THE USA parts, and just get the sway bar and mounts, shock and leafs elsewhere.

Piecemealing it will take a little more work, but i do think i'll be happier with the results!!!

Thanks gents for all your comments and insight!! it is very much appreciated!!!


68 GTX 440cid 727 3.91SG 08 E-92 In God we trust...all others must pay cash
Re: Front-end rebuild [Re: MarPar] #700601
05/21/10 01:48 PM
05/21/10 01:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
S
Sixpak Offline
master
Sixpak  Offline
master
S

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
You can get ALL the bushings, ball joints, tie rods. strut rod, etc. from Rock Auto, probably cheaper than a pre-assembled kit. And you can get Moog there as well.
The best place that poly has in your suspension is for the sway bar end link and shaft bushings, the front leaf spring eye bushings and the rear leaf spring shackle bushing. Poly control arm bushings are more of a pain than they are worth. I'd also go with Moog offset upper control arm bushings to get more positive caster when you get it aligned. No other upper control arm bushing I know of, poly or otherwise, are offset like the Moog bushings.

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