Curious if anyone else is running a keisler 5 speed with TTi 2" big block headers. I know I cant be alone.

I have an issue with the keisler set up that they dont mention to you. After installation of the 5 speed my headers are now 2" off the ground. I under stand that the keisler set up changes your driveline angle which lowers the headers.

Anyone have any ideas on fixing this? I need to get the headers and the exhaust back up where they belong.... it looks like crap!!!

Anyone think a good exhaust shop could bend the headers?

I have a 70 Cuda with the keisler 5 speed and TTI headers. I also have air ride suspention that lowers the car even more. My header flanges actually rest on the ground when the car is in the lowest position. I don't have a clue what to do except to take the TTI's off and install block hugger headers.

I would like to know more about this issue as well. My Keisler and TTIs are being shipped as we speak. They should arrive within the next week, and this makes me very nervous.

I thought the trans was modified so that you did not have to alter the drive line angle. i.e. notching the rear shift mount to clear the torsion bar cross member.

Can you post a pic of your clearance issue so I can better understand what I am about to walk into?

Did you install the spacer to raise the rear of the trans?

I'm running Keisler 1 7/8 headers on a B engine in a Challenger with a Keisler 5 speed. Front suspension is set slightly lower than stock.

When I first got everything installed they were a little low. When I shimmed up the gearbox to dial in the driveline angle they were OK. The collectors still pointed down a bit more than they should have which made the curves into the X pipe a little low. Those pipes got a few bangs on broken up roads... I learned to check my favorite country blacktops for serious winter damage before the first good run in the spring.

Anyhow I talked to TTI about the collectors and wound up buying some loose flanges and making my own. I got the exhaust installed as "high and tight" as possible with the collector slips loose from the flanges. I tacked the flanges with the system installed on the car then pulled them off for a full weld. I wish I had done this at the start.

On the driveline angle deal, I would think it would be possible (if necessary) to adjust the pinion angle with shims and carry the adjustment forward to allow you to shim the transmission higher for header clearance and still keep acceptable driveline angles. I've never tried this however.

PS. The other change I made when I got back into it was flanged connectors at the muffler. Its a lot easier to do service work if you can pull a few bolts and drop the exhaust.

If you don't add the flanges at the muffler, use plenty of antiseize on the slip fittings and don't overtighten the clamps. If the pipes get dented by excessive clamping, they are no fun to get apart.

How thick is your spacer?
I have 2" TTIs and have over 3 1/2" of ground clearance. My car sits lower than stock also. I did have slightly modify my tunnel....

One more reason to pray that Passon gets his new design 5-speed right.

Did you measure the distance from the froor pan to the centerline of the output shaft on the transmission you took out before installing the Keisler Tremec? You will want to shim the Tremec to the same height which may require modifying the hump.

IIRC many months ago Ryan you asked about the Keisler install in the 68-70 B body charger, and I mentioned that you should split the transmission tunnel starting from the firewall/floor seam back to the shifter location, and open up the floor so that you have a wedged seam approx 2" wide up front (near the firewall) tapering to 0 at the shifter hole, then weld in a filler strip,...is your car still equipped with the automatic floor hump, are you using a factory 4 speed hump?, if your interference is up front on the passenger side "ear" located on the transmission, cut it off, it does nothing but hit the floor, I've said it many times before regardless of the body install, mod the floor to achieve the proper driveline angle, if your afraid of modding the floor, then a Keisler isn't in the "cards" for you.....I have the Keisler prototype 68-70 B body TKO 600/650 5 spd which is much bulkier than the production units, I fabricated my own spacer to achieve the original driveline angle, along with mods to the tunnel, even after the rug was down, you can't tell the difference, nevermind with a console atop the whole thing

Mike

It's a 4 speed car and I really didn't want to cut up the tunnel, just in case I want to take it back to stock some day. Guess I'll just have to though.

Ryan the Tremec is a tall case, you really need to cut the floor tunnel down the center to pry it open for clearance to get the driveline angle back to stock, the floor/firewall seam flange that runs across the bellhousing will have to be trimmed down or angled rearward so it dosen't contact the bell as you raise the tailshaft up into the tunnel

Mike

Do you have any pics of a modded tunnel?

Sorry Ryan, I don't

Mike

Ryan-
I had the same problem running 2" TTI's along with a TKO 600. My trans was not modified as heavy in the rear part as the newer tko's are. I cut out another 1/2" to clear the cross member and fabricated a new cover. I think this is how Keisler modifies them now too, reguarding their web site. This made room to raise the trans higher than where the flat top of a 4-speed hump go and brought the TTI's up where they belong. Pinion angle with stock rear springs came out correct.
My 68 Charger is an auto and I had to cut quite a lot out of the tunnel to get the trans in the right position. Dayclona is right. If you want a tko you need to cut the tunnel to line up everything. No way I was going to run the car with the headers pointing at the ground like they did in the first place!
After cutting the floor and raising the trans I testfitted a new AMD 4-speed hump with the intention of making it look look like a factory 4-speed, but, as mentioned, the top of the hump came in about 1/4" lower than the top of the shifter base plate. Solution was to make my own patch, put on carpet and console and go! My car sits at about stock hight, maybe a tad lower, and with 28" wheels I have about 5" distance from header flanges to ground and I no longer worry about bad roads.
I run a Lakewoos shattershield and did not have to grind it to fit the TTI's, but one nut on the bell flange had to be grinded a little and held in position when tightening the bolt.

Alright looks like I'll be doing some surgery on the car to get this thing to fit right...... just wish that Keisler would have told me this.

If anyone has any pics of a modded tunnel I would like to see them.

Thanks guys.

I have this set-up in an E-body. As others have said:

The tunnel has to be modified. On my Cuda, there was no way the driveline angle would have been close to correct with out the cut. i just used the extra tunnel piece they sent with the kit. sorry no pic. Then I used all the spacers that came in the kit to get the tail-shaft up. 2" total I think.

TTI does make an angled reducer to help with the exhaust. I think it's angled 6 degrees up. If you search there is a thread on it. But if your collector is on the ground it probably won't help much...

So when I was told that their tranny would go right in my 71 Cuda' (has 4 speed hump) they were not accurate/honest, and I will have to modify my hump still? Man I'm gonna be hot if that's the case! Means I have to pretty much gut my car? I wondered when the kit came with the sheet metal piece. Too late even at that point.