I'm trying to remove the entire k-member assembly from a 72 valiant and need some help with the upper control arm cam bolts. I got the drivers side out and the knuckle and uca is just dangling. I was trying to get the passenger side cam bolts out but it seems like there is too much tension on the bolts for them to be removed. I've put a jack under the lca and tried and it won't bring enough tension off before lifting the front end. The front end is stripped off of the car so it's pretty light. So, if I add weight to the front end do you think that would solve the problem? I got rained out and trying to come up with a solution without removing the uca ball joint. Thanks

The bolts are probably just frozen to the UCA bushing shells by corrosion.

Be easier to work on it if you go ahead and separate the spindle from the upper ball joint. At least it will be easier to move the UCA up and down while you try to get an angle to maybe drive the bolts out if they're not corroded too badly.

You may end up having to just cut the UCA off.

This is typical with A-bodys for some reason...You'll probably have to torch it off...

Using a torch is an absolute LAST resort. Why destroy a decent control arm? Removal of the KNUCKLE and brake drum or rotor is a good idea. The UCA cam bolts are fitted from the factory with the nut, lock washer and cam washer to the outside. The bolts slip in from the center outward. With only the UCA left in place, it is much easier to fully raise the arm to gain access to the cam bolts. It may help to soak them with an industrial grade penetrant lubricant... something stronger than WD40. Try PB Blaster or something from NAPA or Car Quest. New cam bolts are available from several sources, so I wouldnt worry about saving them. Remove the nut, lock washer and cam washer. Take a 3/4" boxed end wrench to the bolt head and try rotating it each direction while tapping on the threaded end with a hammer. it should break free. You should be able to pry out the cam bolt once it is loose enough to move.

I can turn the cam bolts relatively easy using a ratchet. I just have no room to hit the bolts to drive them out. If I can turn the bolts it should rule out corrosion is this correct? I think I'm going to put some more weight on the k member then try it again. I'm also thinking of clamping a c clamp onto the uca and feeding a pry bar through the clamp to use it as a folcrum to pry the bolts out. Do you think that would work? Thanks

forgot to mention, I'm trying to avoid separating the uca from the spindle. I want to save the ball joint. The car it's coming off of was driveable not too long ago brakes suspension and all. So, I'm trying to swap it into a car that's sat for 20 years to get it back on the road. Plan on upgrading to 73 up disc sometime in the future and trying not to waste money on something that's temporary.

Is the LCA still attached to the spindle on the "stuck" side? Is that torsion bar still would up by the adjuster?

If the UCA is still being pulled down (check to see if the top strike-out bumper is compressed at all), you need to solve that before trying to get the eccentric bolts out:

a. Loosen the T-bar adjuster bolt some more

and/or

b. Jack further out on the LCA (lengthening the effective length of the lever).

put a 3/4 box end wrench on the cam bolt head & move it up and down rapidly to get it as free as possible inside the bushings then on the other end w the flat cam off of there screw the nut back on the threads halfway then w the right size/length punch, set it into the nut recess and tap it w a hammer. 1st squirt some WD40 inside there w the thin red nozzle extension and use the exact length punch and even w that you will still be at a less than ideal angle.

RapidRobert, that's exactly the technique I was using trying to remove it and you're right. The angle to drive the bolts out with a punch is horrible. Also, I don't really have a punch the right length. I think I'm going to loosen the torsion bar adjustment bolt as far as possible then try again. I get another chance at it today. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

I know it's very tight, but if you could hammer a flat screwdriver or chisel in between the bush and the control arm bracket, just enough to get a air hacksaw blade in there to cut through the bolt on each side of the bush.

I had no luck getting the cam bolts out with anything I tried. I finally just separated the ball joint and finished up. I'll just use the existing uca's and install new ball joints for now. Thanks for all of the help.