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tips on buying a 8 3/4 #606855
02/07/10 11:18 AM
02/07/10 11:18 AM
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Dons Dart Offline OP
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Going on a short road trip next weekend to look at an 8 3/4 721 suregrip with 323 gear.Seller says came out of a low milage 70 duster.Just what I want for my 69 Dart.Ok what would you look for and what would you check.I am sure the seller will not want to pull it all apart to see gears and such.Thanks guys.

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606856
02/07/10 11:29 AM
02/07/10 11:29 AM
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NY NY
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340duster340 Offline
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need more info? does it still have stock small bolt pattern? are you looking to convert to large bolt pattern?

your going to want to pull it apart to see what type of differential it has..is it suregrip?..if cone type take $100 off the price. clutch type is preferred because they are rebuildable. check mesh pattern on the gears

also pull the drums, check backing plates for wear, pull axles, check bearings.


1966 Dart GT ...down to only 1 mopar for the first time in 15 years!
Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606857
02/07/10 11:50 AM
02/07/10 11:50 AM
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Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
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maybe a test drive if its still in a running car???

yea prob wont want to pull it a part for just a looky see...

good luck with it


Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606858
02/07/10 12:07 PM
02/07/10 12:07 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Pretty much comes down to price/distance. Since you are Ok there just 15 seconds to visually check the outside for any damage like if it was wrecked (not likely). Then wiggle the pinion back/forth to check for (excessive) play and there will be a fair amt I'm sure and pull the drums real quick to see if you need new shoes and drums which the drums are somewhat pricey which will help your bargaining position. Take out the drain plug & see if it still has grease so it didn't run dry (not likely though) but never hurts to check.


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: RapidRobert] #606859
02/07/10 12:11 PM
02/07/10 12:11 PM
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Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda Offline
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Quote:

Take out the drain plug & see if it still has grease so it didn't run dry (not likely though) but never hurts to check.




Drain Plug? Grease???

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #606860
02/07/10 12:16 PM
02/07/10 12:16 PM
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

Drain Plug? Grease???


fill plug/gear oil


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Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: RapidRobert] #606861
02/07/10 12:21 PM
02/07/10 12:21 PM
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Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
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fill plug/gear oil


Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: scratchnfotraction] #606862
02/07/10 12:26 PM
02/07/10 12:26 PM
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

fill plug/gear oil



Shouldn't you be in church


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606863
02/07/10 12:29 PM
02/07/10 12:29 PM
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Make sure you get the drums with the rear end. They are expensive to find.


56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606864
02/07/10 12:38 PM
02/07/10 12:38 PM
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Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda Offline
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Quote:

Going on a short road trip next weekend to look at an 8 3/4 721 suregrip with 323 gear.Seller says came out of a low milage 70 duster.Just what I want for my 69 Dart.Ok what would you look for and what would you check.I am sure the seller will not want to pull it all apart to see gears and such.Thanks guys.




Don, if you intend to use the unit hard, and/or for many miles, in the long run your better off with a clutch-type rather than a cone. (no springs visable through the differential case itself.)
It can hold more torque
Its rebuildable (the cone type's can be re-machined for more life but...)
It doesn't create metal contamination in the gear lube.

If you buy a cone type, and then later find out its shot, (testing them 'by hand' only determines that their is "SOME" holding power left, not really how much) well then you have still have a project on your hands.
Get a clutch unit, buy the replacement clutch kit (frictions and steels) and rebuild it--its not hard.

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #606865
02/07/10 12:49 PM
02/07/10 12:49 PM
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Dons Dart Offline OP
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Well from what I have been told my drums and brakes parts from my 7 1/4 will work on the 8 3/4.my 7 1/4 has 10 inch drums.I want to stay with SB my rims are new on the car now.I will have to talk to the seller first see if he is willing to pull it apart.The reason for the different rear is my 360 rebuild witch is not much will likly eat that rear up in no time.

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606866
02/07/10 01:03 PM
02/07/10 01:03 PM
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SO. CAL.
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70blackfish Offline
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some cases are better than others
742 strongest
-89 is in the middle
741 is the weakest

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Dons Dart] #606867
02/07/10 01:18 PM
02/07/10 01:18 PM
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Middle River, MD
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Mapandjlp Offline
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Quote:

Well from what I have been told my drums and brakes parts from my 7 1/4 will work on the 8 3/4.my 7 1/4 has 10 inch drums.I want to stay with SB my rims are new on the car now.I will have to talk to the seller first see if he is willing to pull it apart.The reason for the different rear is my 360 rebuild witch is not much will likly eat that rear up in no time.




Can anyone confirm this? I'll eventually do the swap from 7 1/4 to 8 3/4 in my Challenger and would love to be able to keep everything the same.

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: Mapandjlp] #606868
02/07/10 03:07 PM
02/07/10 03:07 PM
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Mass
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68bb Offline
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I just updated my 70 dart from 7 1/4 to 8 3/4.I just assummed the drums and shoes would not be the 10x 1/34 and bought new parts. I was wrong, the 7 1/4 were the same size but I already bought the new stuff. Car was an all original 318 2 barrel car. I guess I'd say measure them and be sure.

good luck

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: 68bb] #606869
02/07/10 03:12 PM
02/07/10 03:12 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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68BB also were the drums/backing plates and as you said the 1&3/4 linings all the same? EDIT and that would be from a a SBP 7&1/4 w 10" brakes of course

Last edited by RapidRobert; 02/07/10 07:52 PM.

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Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: RapidRobert] #606870
02/07/10 05:05 PM
02/07/10 05:05 PM
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Overpriced Housing Central
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An A-body 8.75 should be small bolt pattern axles

If all together, wheel mount to mount is ~57 1/8", perch center to center 43".

Apart the housing from flange to flange should be right at 52 5/8"

If it's longer than any of those dimensions, it's not likely an A body rear.

Re: tips on buying a 8 3/4 [Re: RobX4406] #606871
02/07/10 05:28 PM
02/07/10 05:28 PM
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or has had the axles swaped to LBP with after market axles or LBP stock axles cut down for an a-body housing..

which will make the whole rear end 1/2" wider 1/4" each side

what he said..all a-body 8 3/4 are sbp and have the 1 3/4 skinny brake shoes and drums for A-body only

I used an early a-body keyed axle 8 3/4 housing with the moser large brake offset/LBP axles in my 68 dart

so if by chance it has a keyed axle with nut...dont rule the housing out for you a-body...just knock 3/4 the asking price off







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