These went together in about an hour including taking out the old bars and driveshaft loop.
These are all integrated with a new drive shaft loop.
Thanks guys!!!

nice pics and looks like a very nice frame kit.

Sweet looks good

That looks nice, but isn't the loop supposed to be farther back from the U-joint?

Unreal looking. Looks great. Looks like it would stiffen it up. A lot better than stock, thats for sure.. Congrats. Jack is putting out some great quality..

are they just bolted in or welded as well? looks good

This 100% bolted in, the driveshaft loop is adjustable and will slide back just by loosening the clamps on the rails.

I maybe wrong but bolted in I don't see it doing much(better than nothing I guess) except for looks. if it's not welded into the floor pan I bet it will still flex. but it does look good

Nice,,,,any plans for a X or H pipe for the exhaust ?

What mufflers you have on there now ?

Nice job......

Does this mean you went a 10.96 without subrame connectors before? Do you have a rollbar?

Were you starting to have problems with body flex/doors not closing, that kind of thing?

i think 1 way to see if thay help would be to jack up the car with them on then without and measure the flex before the tire lifts off the ground.mine with a 10pt cage will lift 6" before both fronts lift off jacking from 1 side.the sq tube kit sold that bolts in does the same thing as the round kit pictured.

Post deleted by polyspheric

Yes, I agree, but I also mentioned "compression", and that it might also be a factor in that the front leaf spring attachment point is basically pushing the entire chassis forward with all the multiplied force the motor can develop, and that force then flows thru the floor pan (which is nearly useless) and also makes effectively, 2 90Deg turns as it flows thru the rocker panels, which is I suspect what boxing them achieves/improves, but not likely very effectively, so what the aftermarket subframes may accomplish best is direct compressive transfer of the actual acceleration of the car, and then the shape/ diameter is not quite as important, but of course only in regards to this force (ie not bending). IMO there is lot going on here, and no solution is ideal until those forces are understood and weighed, and the application taken into account. It seems for years there have only antedotal solutions and monkey see, monkey do, and no one asks why?

And isn't the twist from "planting" the left rear, not the right?

Another great product.

LOOKS FANTASTIC JACK!!

Kiddart

Does anyone have any empirical evidence, like before and after subframe connector time slips or pictures pf body damage that resulted from lack of connectors to post?

Just curious about how much they are worth to lowering ET. A tenth? Two tenths? More?

Where do you buy this fine product???