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I have used 1/8" lexan for years on 1/8 and 1/4 mile. Pop rivited in & a single brace in the center, no problems. Shimed it out with scrap pieces of lexan, and clear sylicone sealed. Also painted a black border from the inside. You can cut it with a fine tooth blade in a jigsaw. Just take your time cutting it.

Brian Dunnigan

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Also take a propane torch to finish the
cut edges... just slowly pass it along the edge to
re-melt it ... I usually draw file the edge first
then hit it with a torch for a professional look.
3/16" is plenty for it but you would need to shim
it too make up for the original windshield thickness
PS... try it on a scrap piece first to get the idea.
Also dont waste your money on the scratch resistant
stuff it will scratch just as easy

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Thanks for the heads up adam!

Mr. P body, are you referring to MR 10 lexan? i thought that's what everyone is using these days. thanks-Andy

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If I remember right the MR-10 is the standard Lexan
which is what you want.... been a few years since I
bought any... I use to buy alot when I was working
for different jobs at work
EDIT
I think the MR stands for Mar Resistance... could
be wrong.... you want the standard Lexan

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I like my 1/8 inch Lexan. I use the stock rubber gasket but I use a rubber u channel from McMaster Carr that brings the thickness back to the factory 1/4 inch. Works very well for me but I also do use a center support.

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I use 1/8" also, without a center support, yes it does
bow in at speed but I really dont care, it goes back
to normal when I slow down...mine bows in about 1"...
It all depends on size of the windshield and how
much arch there is in it to how much it will move

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We use 1/4" aircraft lexan with the syock gaskets and it works great.

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