This weekend I'm going to make the Dakota frame fit the 1940 Dodge Coupe body.

I will be using the whole Dakota frame, as the original frame is almost beyond use. I may use a small rear section of the original frame to cap the Dakota frame and provide a place to mount the rear bumper.

I wanted to see what you guys thought of the way I was going to shorten the frame. I need take out about 4", I will double check the measurement before I make any cuts.

See the picture to see how I'm thinking about cutting it and putting it back together.

After welding it back I will plate the inside of the frame, and then box it for good measure.

Thoughts? Comments? Death threats?

It will work the way you have it layed out but we have also just cut straight down and welded it back together and then boxed the inside of the frame. (check out the links below)

a little while ago on my COE PU project I used a cut off wheel and separeted the frame at the factory weld and cut off 30" and brought the back half to the factory area and put it back together, it looks like it came that way, I tend to OVERKILL so I will probably plate a little to the inside of the frame. Ron....


https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=1#Post5422308



http://rides.webshots.com/album/300985977tszAFe

if you are just going to shorten 4" what about moving the rear axle forward and just cutting off the back of the rails

I understand the concern with making multiple straight cuts, but I think I could manage those.

Cutting it straight would definately be easier, though.

We'll see I guess, just kind of thinking and weighing my options.

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if you are just going to shorten 4" what about moving the rear axle forward and just cutting off the back of the rails

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The frame has an arch.... here's the best pic I could find...

I like your plan for the lap joint. It is more work but will be stronger than a butt joint.(The rear kick in my frame is butt jointed) I say go for it!
Arno

I agree with Ron. Straight cut it at the factory seam, move the rear section ahead 4" and reweld. Plate the inside and put some grade 8 bolts through it in a couple of places if it makes you feel better. Very simple operation. It will be harder to make body mounts. Don't worry it will be strong enough.

all of the ideas will work. use whichever you feel most comfortable with. measure 3 times, cut, tack, re-measure, finish weld.

It worked out beautifully!

I didn't take as many pictures during the putting it all together as I wish I had, but I was somewhat preoccupied with the welding and such.







More here on my webpage:

Merciless Frame Hacking

I'm anxious to build the body mounts and get this thing going!!

Great job!

very good grasshopper !

nice job,,what was the wheel base of the dakota frame to start with ?

Looks like you did your homework. Looks to be a natural cut and weld job. Boxing the welds afterwards is a good idea.

Thanks guys!!

I've already got a pair the front body mounts fabbed up and tacked on, not 100% if they are where they are going to stay, height wise. Looking much better though!

Last night I took the leaf springs and rearend out, I need to move the leaf springs under the frame, they interfere with the body subframe and I don't want to cut into that.

After I get the leafs springs shuffled around, I can build the rear body mounts and set the rear of the body down over the frame, which should drop the car pretty heavily.

After I get all that stuff done I figure I'll take a few more update pictures, because it will really start to look like a car!

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nice job,,what was the wheel base of the dakota frame to start with ?

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There are three different wheel bases, mine was the shortcab longbed which was 123.9 inches.

cat wait to see more pics,,,car porn pleaseeee

Nice job! I did mine on an angle:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/2845713752_ac26e4c41d_b.jpg

Matt

I have an ongoing dakota drag project.
we didnt shorten the frame, but we did box the inside of the frame from the factory boxed section to the rear bumper with 1/8", it added some weight but did it ever stiffen up the frame before it was a flexi flyer now it's like a battleship !!
I wouldnt hesitate to cut the frame straight, bevel,butt weld and box the frame on the inside just make sure you secure the frame. our's was fixtured up on a surface plate and allowed to cool it was stitch welded over a two day period to control heat induced warpage.

nice job,,,

hey scott, looking good any updates?