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hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 #493040
10/10/09 12:37 PM
10/10/09 12:37 PM
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Oregon
hooziewhatsit Offline OP
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W200, 318, SP2P intake, Voodoo 60400 cam (208/213 @50), stock heads, Eddy 1406, headers, crossover is blocked, 1/2" open aluminum spacer. Idles around 800-900. Vacuum at idle is 16-18. In gear cold drops to ~14-15.

Timing is at 15* (tried 10*-20*, no real change when cold).

Carb is jetted at #7 (6% lean on cruise & power, I live at 4500'). IMSs are 3.25 turns out. AP is on the top hole (biggest squirt, tried others as well, top seemed to help the most).

Fuel pressure when cold was 6.5, and warm was 3.5. I put my adjustable FPR on this morning, and on 5psi, it gives me 2 Anything lower and I get nothing out. (took it off a year ago since it wouldn't run warm with it on).

Basically, when cold, it will fire right up and idle at 1500... for a while. After a couple minutes when the choke is barely open, it will sputter down and die. (Choke is already adjusted beyond their notches, if I crank it farther around, it won't kick down until it's warm, lol)
If I touch the gas, it dies. If I touch/flutter the gas just right, I can bring the RPMs up bit, then it will usually sputter and die. I can't take the rpms too high either, because it will sputter and die. And that's just in Park. In gear it goes to 5-600 rpms, bounces around, and if it doesn't die by itself, any amount of throttle will.

However, once it hits about 170*F, it clears up and runs pretty well We just hit the cold season here, so 30s in the morning, and 60s during the day. Once winter hits the highs will be around freezing until spring. If I need to go anywhere, I don't want to burn gas for 15 minutes while it warms up

I did have a pretty good hot hesitation until I re-tuned it after putting the spacer in, trying to get rid of heat soak in the carb.

Any other thoughts? Or do I just need to let it warm up for 15 minutes whenever I want to drive it? I'd also prefer not to have to take the intake off to open the crossover either. Fuel injection is looking like a very viable option at this point...


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: hooziewhatsit] #493041
10/10/09 01:57 PM
10/10/09 01:57 PM
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Newfoundland Canada
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Mopar1 Offline
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You've already answered your own question...If the cross-over is blocked it will run like crap when cold, and will have poor fuel economy. If you don't want to clean the cross-over you probably could install a manual choke cable, but I would clean the cross-over. Been there, done that and it makes a big difference in colder climates.

Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Mopar1] #493042
10/10/09 04:38 PM
10/10/09 04:38 PM
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North East Missouri
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Have you tried to richen up the idle screws a little?


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: express] #493043
10/10/09 08:20 PM
10/10/09 08:20 PM
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Oregon
hooziewhatsit Offline OP
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Actually, the cross over itself is open, it's the intake gaskets that are blocking it off. I just don't want to take the intake off to cut them open , then next summer, block them off again

So what about the heads/intakes that just don't have the crossover? Do they all run poorly until warmed up? I guess I'm thinking it should be able to run ok with or without it

The choke is electric, so it doesn't rely on heat from the intake to open.

The IMSs are already 3 turns out. I could go out some more and see what happens.

Thanks


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: hooziewhatsit] #493044
10/10/09 08:38 PM
10/10/09 08:38 PM
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Eagle, Idaho
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The dart cylinder heads on my truck do not have a crossover and I have have an electric choke edelbrock carb on it. In the winter I just start it and then hold the rpm at 1300 or so for 3-4 minutes or so, typically the length of one song on the radio. I don't have any problems with it wanting to quit or stall out in cold weather so long as I let the engine build a little heat before driving it.

Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Neil] #493045
10/10/09 09:27 PM
10/10/09 09:27 PM
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The cross over isn't there for the choke, it's there to warm the gas up so it will vaporize and ignite int he combustion chamber. Liquid gas doesn't burn, the vapors do and cold gas doesn;t vaporize as well as warm gas.

Without a cross over you are delaying the warming of the intake and that is why it takes a while before you can drive off. You intake still heats up, just takes longer and may not get as hot.

Bet your air cleaner doesn't have a heat stove weither, which would help you. As for the heads and intake without a cross over built in, either they are for FI aplications, racing applications, or fair weather applications. Or you have to wait for it to warmup, just like you are now.


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Supercuda] #493046
10/10/09 10:57 PM
10/10/09 10:57 PM
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Newfoundland Canada
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Quote:

The cross over isn't there for the choke, it's there to warm the gas up so it will vaporize and ignite int he combustion chamber. Liquid gas doesn't burn, the vapors do and cold gas doesn;t vaporize as well as warm gas.

Without a cross over you are delaying the warming of the intake and that is why it takes a while before you can drive off. You intake still heats up, just takes longer and may not get as hot.

Bet your air cleaner doesn't have a heat stove weither, which would help you. As for the heads and intake without a cross over built in, either they are for FI aplications, racing applications, or fair weather applications. Or you have to wait for it to warmup, just like you are now.






If the cross-over isn't for the choke, why did Chrysler use the heat retracting spring on the choke pull off? It's part of the engine warm-up process. If the cross-over is plugged everything is compromised.

Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Mopar1] #493047
10/11/09 01:33 AM
10/11/09 01:33 AM
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I have a 1406 on a bone stock (70's) 318 w electric choke & it starts/runs good except the mileage is not good (need to go to I believe 95 jets & 73 on a cruise step) but I dont have the radical cam that you do. iirc my crossover is blocked from my choice of gaskets.


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Mopar1] #493048
10/11/09 11:46 AM
10/11/09 11:46 AM
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Quote:



If the cross-over isn't for the choke, why did Chrysler use the heat retracting spring on the choke pull off? It's part of the engine warm-up process. If the cross-over is plugged everything is compromised.




Let me answer your question with a question. What is th epurpose of exhaust heat in factory applications that use either a manual choke or an all electric choke?

What Chrysler did was to use the fact that exhaust heat cross over warms the intake and used that as a way to regulate automatic choke operation, thus doing away with manual chokes.

The automatic choke is setup to come off as the intake warms and open fully once the engine is warm. Later setups used an auxilliary electric heater with a thermistor to speed the opening up for emissions purposes.


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Supercuda] #493049
10/11/09 05:45 PM
10/11/09 05:45 PM
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Quote:

Quote:



If the cross-over isn't for the choke, why did Chrysler use the heat retracting spring on the choke pull off? It's part of the engine warm-up process. If the cross-over is plugged everything is compromised.




Let me answer your question with a question. What is th epurpose of exhaust heat in factory applications that use either a manual choke or an all electric choke?

What Chrysler did was to use the fact that exhaust heat cross over warms the intake and used that as a way to regulate automatic choke operation, thus doing away with manual chokes.

The automatic choke is setup to come off as the intake warms and open fully once the engine is warm. Later setups used an auxilliary electric heater with a thermistor to speed the opening up for emissions purposes.






The exhaust heat warms the base of the carb for better atomizing of the fuel/air. If the cross-over is plugged it will take much longer for the engine to idle properly and cause higher fuel consumption. Even the engines with the faster choke pull-off had the cross-over. Let me ask you this...If the cross-over wasn't necessary, why would Chrysler's engineers design and build it into the engine anyway?

Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Mopar1] #493050
10/11/09 07:22 PM
10/11/09 07:22 PM
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Go back and reread my first post.

You obviously misunderstood what I wrote.

The crossover is not there for the choke.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Supercuda] #493051
10/11/09 07:46 PM
10/11/09 07:46 PM
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The heat retractor spring on the older style choke pull-off will work without the cross-over. However, if the cross-over is clear it will work much more efficiently. Therefore the choke does rely on the cross-over. Either way, the guy's question in the original post still comes back to the cross-over being blocked whether it's the auto, manual, or electric choke. If it's blocked it will run like crap until it's up to operating temp.

Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: Mopar1] #493052
10/11/09 08:49 PM
10/11/09 08:49 PM
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hooziewhatsit Offline OP
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This morning I opened the IMSs up by another turn, and it really seemed to help. This morning wasn't quite as cold, so I couldn't really test it. But 'rolling into it' it doesn't bog down like it did.

Ironically, if I slooooowly open the throttle it hesitates a bit. On that point, if I slooooowly open the throttle, it takes 3/4" of throttle travel before anything comes out of the accelerator pump circuit. I can goose the throttle though and it shoots out instantly.

I'm thinking of removing the weight in the AP circuit, as some people have gotten an improvement after doing that?


If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: hooziewhatsit] #493053
10/11/09 09:14 PM
10/11/09 09:14 PM
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First Thing i would do is see why your fuel pressures goes so low.

With so low of a fuel pressure plus the cold there might not me enough gase to keep here running.

Edelbrock recommands 5.5 psi 6. psi max.

I would look into this first.

Fuel pressure should not be droping the way it is on you car.

Worn fuelpump, clog in the line, kinked hose, Dirt in the filter or dirt in the gas tank

Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: 540challenger] #493054
10/11/09 10:01 PM
10/11/09 10:01 PM
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hooziewhatsit Offline OP
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I suppose I am about due to change the fuel filter (which is before the pump).

I have just a stock mechanical pump. Without the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I was seeing 6ish psi right before the carb. I thought I saw it down around 3psi when it was warm yesterday, but today it stayed around 5-6psi when warm (idling in park).

If I put my adjustable FPR in, set at 5psi, I only see 2psi after the regulator. On any lower setting, it appears to completely shut off the flow

So without the regulator, I'm borderline too high. With it, it's pretty much cut off. Anybody recommend a good one?


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: hooziewhatsit] #493055
10/13/09 12:07 PM
10/13/09 12:07 PM
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hooziewhatsit Offline OP
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bump for this last question:

if I slooooowly open the throttle it hesitates a bit.

While sitting under the hood, I noticed if I slooooowly open the throttle, it takes 3/4" of throttle travel before anything comes out of the accelerator pump circuit. I can goose the throttle though and it shoots out instantly.

I'm thinking of removing the weight in the AP circuit, as some people have gotten an improvement after doing that?


If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: hooziewhatsit] #493056
10/13/09 05:10 PM
10/13/09 05:10 PM
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Quote:

if I slooooowly open the throttle it hesitates a bit. I'm thinking of removing the weight in the AP circuit, as some people have gotten an improvement after doing that?


Removing the weight might fine tune it a bit but there's a major problem there besides the weight being there or not being there. You should have a squirt immediately whether you open the throttle fast or slow. I'd open her up again maybe check the condition of the neoprene AP cup & if good there then why is it not building pressure or where is the pressure going instead of out the nozzle?. A good visual inspection inside there is in order.


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: RapidRobert] #493057
10/13/09 05:46 PM
10/13/09 05:46 PM
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hooziewhatsit Offline OP
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Great. Knowing it's a problem is half the battle

I had it open a few days ago when I checked the jets, and didn't see any obvious tears or rips on the AP plunger.

I suppose I should be able to take the airhorn off, take the plunger out of the airhorn, and manually move it in its bore to see where the pressure is going?

It's suppose to warm up here in a few days, so it will probably wait until then.


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: hooziewhatsit] #493058
10/13/09 06:13 PM
10/13/09 06:13 PM
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Quote:

I suppose I should be able to take the airhorn off, take the plunger out of the airhorn, and manually move it in its bore to see where the pressure is going?


Correct. the AP circuit is seperate from the air horn. Take it off & with the proper fuel level in the bowl just pushing the plunger down the bore will very likely pinpoint the problem for you. If you start it for several seconds then shut it off you'll have the fuel level where it's at under operating conditions.


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Re: hesitation when cold, 318 + 1406 [Re: RapidRobert] #493059
10/15/09 05:55 PM
10/15/09 05:55 PM
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Got a new AP plunger today. Seemed to sit a little higher in the bore than the old one. Otherwise, haven't noticed a difference

I get a few bubbles from around the plunger when I push it in by hand while it's towards the top of the bore. Farther in it's fine. Thinking about it now, I didn't check to see if the bore is still true or not

I can still move the throttle slowly and not get anything out. I checked, and it appears to have the .024" squirters in it.

Even when warmed up (180*F) and cruising at 35mph, if I gently add some throttle it coughs and sputters.

The 1/2" spacer hasn't seemed to help at all with warm restarts, so I think I'll just take it off.


If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
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