It is looking like I will need to remove the studs from my 440 to install it in my A body. I may not be able to get my headers on with the engine in the car.

Anyways, I need all the tricks and tips that you can come up with for removing the studs.

I have tried double nutting with no luck. I am thinking heat is the next step. For obvious reasons, I am not interested in breaking anything off etc.

Heat and a wet rag? Heat and squirt some lube?

Thanks, ROB

I've had success lifting one side of engine at a time an inch or two so that the header can slip over the studs.

That was in a 440 A body with underchassis headers?

I would rather keep the studs since I like them better.

ROB

Always go tighter first then try backing out machine shop showed me seems to work great??

get some spare heads first

just in case they are coming off and going to machine shop for drilling broke ones out

heat them up cherry red and sprays some PB Blaster to cool them some,it will wick it in there

worked for the last sb I did when they would not move..

good luck

The hot wrench & squirt some lube. You need as much room as possible so nothing is damaged especially in the heat of battle in the tight confines of a big block A body. I also drop the center link & pull the steering col/box.

Get a stud remover.Spend 10 bucks and make the job easier.Ive also used bees wax to remove stubbourn bolts etc.Heat with torch and melt wax it draws in and most come out easy.Leave as many studs in if you can.Rocky

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P

I had never heard of one, might have to check em out.

A good stud remover cost more than 15 bucks and gives you way more leverage to remove the stud. I have used at least 3 different kinds with the collet stud remover being the best by far, naturally it cost the most. It can get in tighter places and most importanly, it doesn't damage the stud. When you screw together motors that are held together completely by studs except for the rods you use a good stud setter/remover. Good luck getting them out , the collet tool would do it without breaking them.

I've broke em too,(the tool) like the one in my picture. I don't think you can break the collet type tool, it has never let me down. These are all Snap-On.
BTW the cam type, the cheapest is just about useless IMO.

Many, many studs in these motors. yup those are windows, the motor has been ran many times since the repair and runs the same. Gotta love aluminum and KB

Small/tiny Pipe Wrench and PB Blaster.



I own 3 1/2-inch and 5-inch long Rigid pipe wrenches, for just such bolt-removal situations.

I also have a Stud-Remover, like the one from Sears above, but if there is room, I use the tiny pipe wrench.

I've had good luck mig welding a nut on after soaking overnight with penetrating oil. The heat (and current?) seems to break the rust bond and they real easy.

even w/ the engine jacked way up?

Just some information for anyone searching.

I ended up using the cam type of remover that I got at Shucks. They were the only place I could get to. You people are right, it does ruin the studs etc.

However it worked, and all studs are removed without incident.

Thanks for the tip. Onto the next issue.

ROB

Do not reuse any studs that you heat to remove! They become brittle and tend to snap when thighting.