lower a arm kit

I went the full tube frame way. I want it to be as light as I can get it. I ordered the strange front strut kit and had the S&W 4-link stuff. The rest is just moly pipe. I still have to mount the rack but trying to finish up the major pipe work before it gets to cold and I have to leave the door closed. (welding fumes).
here's where I started, then the front end you were asking about.

struts

Walt, How bought making an Alterkation front end fit, buy your back half kit, and have a chassis shop tie it all together with a certified cage? It may be kinda pricey but may save alot of work and frustration. But I've never done any of this so I'm clueless.

Walt, we put toghether a daytona years ago with a kit that bolted in, we used dodge carravan struts and brakes. im thinking it was a mopar kit.
not sure if one would work for that car.
i can get a little more info from the guy if you want
Bondo

I have less then the price of a tubular K-frame in my strut kit and rack. Under 2 grand, so to me it was a no brainer, there lighter not really hard to install, double adjustable, and more clearance, plus they come with breaks.
Here is my Jig, it runs the length of the car and it is where everything is measured to, chassi centerline

You're right, Bob. MP had a V-8 conversion kit for the Daytona/Laser at one time. I don't know if you could still find one or not.

If you're keeping the strut towers, etc. you may want to contact someone who's running one in NHRA SS/GT, I'm sure they have it all scienced out perfectly.

thanks fastmop for the pictures...yours is the one I seen on here a few months ago. I see you're making some progress... looks good... if I was going to make a all out race car then I would do the same thing you're doing. I have some ideas but I see that 105630 (red avenger )has the stock strut towers in his car and kind of waiting to see some pictures to see how he done his. the set up that I'm looking at right now is kind of like the one in this picture .. see attachment... but without the frame. thanks guys for all your help. keep the ideas and pictures coming.

I'm will be getting you some pictures real soon ,have been building a new house and work is wide open,but the engine will be pulled soon to be some updating on combination and will be able to get you some pretty detailed pictures then. The pics I had before are lost and I'm sure you will like the new ones soon ,but the car does still have the factory strut tower,the front tube off the cage passes thur the tower and tries into the front clip and the strange strut attaches to the bar up top and uses a viper control arm on the bottom ,which attaches to the bottom part of the bottom rail rails which try in also up front below the top bars but you will be able to see and tell so keep watch in a week or so and I'll make sure to pm you also,may also have the car up for sell soon rolling chassis but it going to be priced in the 30's STILL CHEAPER than you can built these days.SORRY FOR THE DELAY..

SORRY Jimmy... wasn't trying to rush you ...know what you mean about having enough time in the day...but I was doing some research and kinda figured what you explained was the setup that you had.I seen that you had them bar going through the strut tower so I figured that was kind of the setup you had. thanks again and good luck with your new house

Click the pic to see the project come together

that is such a cool slide show Dave,,,the Avenger is looking real sharp...nice chassis

Can't imagine the amount of time and patience that must take to do on your own....awesome.

wj440 - you want to replace a strut front end with a strut front end?

What am I missing about the stock stuff?

Ok. Not familiar with the chassis (despite owing a '96 Sebring 10 years ago), but what's wrong with the stock setup?

Man that sounds Nasssssssty!!!

Love ta have more of those pics!!!

I have an idea of what yall are trying to do and want to run something to think about by you. Say you get a strut setup off a mustang, Quality adjustable parts not stock. Use the stock upper mounts and just build your lower frame rails off the hoop like I did. you would need kickers coming through the stock upper sheetmetal tying into the lower framerails but still have the lower open for header and motor clearance. That seems like a still streatable setup.