Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: derekeh]
#448342
08/24/09 08:12 PM
08/24/09 08:12 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,373 Rancho Cucamonga, CA
D_C
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,373
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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I wonder if the abrasives from the honing and with dis-assembly/reassembly contamination, you wound up wiping out the cam?
A cam that has gone round would cause similar symptoms.
Actually though, could be lots of things, simple to horrible.
Could even be an intake vacuum-leak, timing issues, distributor problem, etc.
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Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: ph23vo]
#448346
08/24/09 10:47 PM
08/24/09 10:47 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
you need to find someone who knows engines... this is way beyond your knowledge... good luck dan
how about we try to help the guy out and teach him something so he doesn't HAVE to go find someone else?
none of us were born knowing all about mopars, or engines, or...
I would start with a mechanical inspection of the engine. it's a 340? did those all come with solid cams? if it's a solid cam, how'd you set valve lash? check the pushrods to see if any are loose, rotate the engine and check every valve for movement, heck, put a dial gauge on them to see that they all open the same amount.
once that's done, put the valve covers back on, and start checking the ignition system...what are you running for an ignition system? points? stock electronic? MSD? you could have any one component that's gone bad and won't make enough juice to spark your engine at higher loads or RPMs.
I had a coil go bad on me once, you'd have thought I had a catostraphic engine failure, but 30 minutes later the thing started right up, leading me to suspect electrical gremlins showing up when it was hot
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: derekeh]
#448349
08/25/09 06:43 PM
08/25/09 06:43 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609 Southern Cal
Noblewk
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
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When you pulled the pistons did you pull the crank or did you pull one cylinder at a time?
66 Dart GT, 402 11.18:109 Best
63 1/2 Galaxie 500XL 406 4Speed 13.20:103 Best
2000 Ram
2005 Durango Hemi.
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Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: derekeh]
#448351
08/25/09 06:52 PM
08/25/09 06:52 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609 Southern Cal
Noblewk
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
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Did you degree the cam in when you put it back together or use the "dot to dot" method?
I have seen cams off as far a 8 degrees using the "dot to dot" method.
66 Dart GT, 402 11.18:109 Best
63 1/2 Galaxie 500XL 406 4Speed 13.20:103 Best
2000 Ram
2005 Durango Hemi.
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Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: MoparforLife]
#448355
08/25/09 10:24 PM
08/25/09 10:24 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
[quoteI would start with a mechanical inspection of the engine. it's a 340? did those all come with solid cams? if it's a solid cam,
No, they did not. Only the T/A engines. So in essence not many.
AH, thanks! see, I learned sumpthin in this thread too!
the noise you hear...does it sound like a sewing machine? when I first fired mine up, and actually got an exhaust on it, I heard the valve train and was SCARED I screwed it up! this is my first engine that I built, and I jumped head first into the deep end with a 500hp stroker big block!
turns out, what I ehard was normal valve train noise, even for a hydraulic cam.
I didn't remember the stock 2bbl 383 cam making all that noise though...and I keep forgetting...yours is a stock cam.
I'm willing to bet it's something in the electrical side of things.
if you lined up the dots, it should run like it did from the factory, because I'm sure the guys in the engine room back in the 70s did NOT degree the cam, they took boxes and boxes of stock parts, tossed em together, lining up dots, not measuring ring gaps, not checking bearing clearances, etc. they just put the stock parts together...so for a stock cam, "lining up the dots" SHOULD be good enough to get it running like a factory engine did--not missing, and able to spin higher than 4K.
if the valves appear to be moving the same, and the cam timing isn't WAY off, then it's either spark timing, or something electrical--coil, ignition box, distributor, etc.
again...is it points? stock electronic, or aftermarket like an MSD or Petronix?
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: MoparforLife]
#448356
08/25/09 10:35 PM
08/25/09 10:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,436 Blair County,PA
62maxwgn
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,436
Blair County,PA
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Quote:
[quoteI would start with a mechanical inspection of the engine. it's a 340? did those all come with solid cams? if it's a solid cam,
No, they did not. Only the T/A engines. So in essence not many.
The T/A cam was not a solid lifter cam,it was hydraulic with adjustable rockers.
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Re: Help. Cant get engine to stop missing :(
[Re: derekeh]
#448358
08/26/09 04:16 PM
08/26/09 04:16 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'd check rotor phasing then on a difficult case like this one go back to basics, a compression test, note idle vacuum(is it steady), secondary ign (plugs/wires/cap)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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