I have a 1974 plymouth satellite with a 318. I swaped motors and i have no spark. Ive changed ALL possible electrical components ( distributor, 3 coils, 3 balast resistors, 3 electronic control units complete wiring harness and even looked for issues at the ignition switch.) I have checked every area for power but it seems I have no power to the ecu. with the key on the balast resistor gets really hot i have power at the positive side of the coil but no spark. The test light does not light up at any of the wires at the control unit. Also have one question..what is the little box with the red button on top next to the control unit??? would that have anything to do with this??? and if so how do I fix it and where do I get a new one??I am getting very aggrivated and have been working on it for over a month. I really would love to drive it one day. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!

(1) Make sure the ECU is grounded well. (2) Jump 12V from batt positive to the "point" of the ECU (3) with a jumper connect the downstream side of the ballast resistor to the coil positive. Then try it. EDIT push that button 1st!

I dont know what the downstream side of the ballast resistor is and if it works how do i make it do what it has to dow ithout the jumper wires?

I forgot is it a 2 or 4 terminal ballast? if it's a 2 pin pull both sides off & see which one has fire when you turn the key on. The downstream side will be the other side. Good point but I wanted to confirm that everything is good & it WILL run but to speed things up trace upstream from the "point" on the ECU pentastar connector to find the open

everything worked befor, i had a bad carb, put a new one on started it timed it then when i turned it off to tighten the dist. down it wouldn`t fire back up,also the ing switch works whenever it wants to. the guy i got the car from had the relay jumped with a push button, it is a 4 prong balast.

I just had to replace my starter relay.

Check to see if the roter is under the cap. They never seem to fire with out it.

Mark

Having my 73 Sat do the same thing check the ignition switch connection to the bulk head wiring there is a 10-12 gauge wire that i will bet is corroded swelled up or green.jump past the connection Thats not all go from there to the main wiring loom mine had a broken wire about 8-10 inches in from the same switch. I also have had to replace the one half of the fuse box with one of the cheapees from advance do to lack of connections and everything now works every time.
By the way that button is a seat belt bypass not belted in no start