Try using less pressure on the roller. It seems to me I had that problem if I was pushing down too hard on the roller. Let it glide over the surface barely touching it.

I saw someone post a picture before with roller marks and it looked like they rolled the paint on in strips and never worked it around. once you roll the paint on you have to work it around to even it out. when I painted I rolled on and covered the spot I was doing then went over it a few times in about every direction I could with light pressure and never had any lines. that make sense?

Thanks to everyone who has contributed their time and knowledge to this thread. You guys have this down to a science. I had NO idea results like this were possible at such low cost. I've been considering this cheap and solid but pretty ratty looking older Corolla for an econo-ride. It's looking a lot better by the minute.

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know I finished my paint job. Came out alright, good from a 5 foot viewpoint. This is prior to sanding and buffing and waxing as I am waiting for the paint to finish drying. 6 coats of rustoleum gloss black on top of 2 coats rustoleum rust-primer. Aside from unnevenness on horizontal surfaces and my shoddy bondo work and several bubbles/areas of extreme orangepeel, I'm satisfied with it. Much better than when I got it anyway.



(Pardon my missing trim piece, still trying to get that back on.

Hello everyone. I've been reading this site for the last 4 weeks and feel I've got a pretty good handle on everything, but I just had one quick question before I begin testing on some panels.

I have a Makita Finishing sander . .
Makita Sander

Now its actually a wood sander, but I would think that it would do the job I need it to for removing the paint on the car. I have a lot of cracks and so forth all over the car and they need to be sanded down pretty good. Here's what I'm thinkin . .

1.) Wash the car with dish soap with no aloe/oil/etc.
2.) Grab Makita sander, throw some 150 grit on there and goto town. Sand down until I have gotten all the cracks leveled out somewhat.
3.) Use Rusto. primer (2 coats) to help fill the cracks.
4.) After that block sand the primer down again, this time using something like 250 to smooth it out. Then follow that up with some 400 again.
5.) Move on with the standard rolling instructions and so forth.

I've never done bodywork, but this site has given me a ton of info to work with. I'm sure I'll be posting some info/questions here myself. I'll be painting a 73' 240Z Brightside Gloss White. I hope mine can come out like yours!!!

I would not expect primer to fill scatches from 150 grit. I would go up to 320 personally. I used 400 wetsanding on my primer coats and it came out gloss smooth. Make sure to wipe car down with mineral spirits or tar and wax remover prior to each coat of paint, ESPECIALLY after wetsanding! Good luck!

Ditto what joeshmo said regarding primer not filling 150-grit scratches.

In addition, do not attempt to fill cracks in the paint with primer either. Keep sanding until the cracks are gone, even if it means sanding all the way to the metal. If it comes to that, there is undoubtedly rust that needs a good sanding when you get that far anyway. It is only necessary to go to the metal if the cracks go that far, and only in the areas where there are cracks. In areas where the paint is in good condition, just give it a good sanding with 320 and move on.

Awesome, sounds like a good plan.

Is the sander I'm looking to use good enough for the job? I have used it before on wood and it works wonders. But, I don't know if it will work to well on automotive paint. Can anyone give any ideas on that before I start my work on my test piece?

a power sander is good for the initial sanding, but even before primer you want to take 400 and a block to hand sand the entire car. It takes a while but the results are worth it in the end.

That sander should be fine for the low grit stuff but higher grits (above 220 grit) should be done by hand. Sanders are really only good for large flat panels. Avoid using it on the body curves as you may burn through the paint very quickly! Also use two layers of masking tape and a layer of duct tape over the trim that you do not want sanded. Let us know how it goes!

Thanks guys . . . here's what I have to work with . .

73' 240Z when I bought it 4 years ago . .

Here's what it looks like now...


I've noticed that I have some bad cracking, and I plan to start with 150 grit with the sander in these spots, and then work my way up to 400 before primering . .

Far away shot . .

Clost up . .


Where's she's at now . .


Do you think those cracks will be good if I start with the 150 and then work my way up to 400 using the block (150 with sander, then 220 with block, then 330, then 400)?

? do anyone know if the Summit brand 2k primer will cover 180 grit paper scratches?Thaxx

I highly doubt it. Even epoxy primers can only cover so much. I would go 220 then 320 before primer. 180 is still pretty deep. It is much easier to sand better now that trying to correct it after gloss paint.

this thread finaly dead?

nope! I'm going to have my car done within the next month and 3 weeks if it kills me!!

I have a HUGE once in a lifetime car rally that I've been invited to and theres no way I'm gonna miss it!

Well thats good news...both the fact that your car will be done soon AND the thread isn't dead...After reading and reading and reading and reading and reading and then reading some more I finally started my test panels and poof everyone dissapears for a week.

Question for anyone out there. As I wetsand I am finding burning through the edges is almost unavoidable. It seems for me that the only orange peel I am getting is of course right along the edges (about 1/2 inch leading up to the edge). So naturally I have to spend more time wet sanding in these areas. All flat or otherwise curved surfaces are coming out amazingly smooth. Any Tips?

2nd question...I'm painting a 95 ranger and there are two body lines that go the length of the test piece, one is recessed the other is a curved step up...see pics. Not real visable in the pics but I'm having a real hard time geting the foam roller to contour to these areas without leaving behind a smeared mess. I put pressure on it but it just smears; wont get into the area otherwise. I am approaching the top line with perpendicular strokes and that seems to be helping, but the bottom one is killing me. If I use a foam brush it looks like crap (are you using high density foam brushes or just those crappy grey ones?). Has anyone found an alternate applicator for real tight lines like these?

PS...junk fender...will not be used...rust be damned

Before Pic

after pic...changed the post title back btw...been around too long

oh yeah..this is after 3 coats with 24 hours bake time in the sun

Well, I decided to finally join to show my progress. I'm no stranger to the roller paint job. I've redone my car 3 times now! It's addicting. haha. I drive a Nissan 240sx. But you don't want a big wall of text, right? You want pictures... so here we go.

The start of this project:
Camo primer... rough looking.


Supplies!


Shaved the antenna and began the laborious task of body work.


And so it begins.


A couple in progress shots:



Wetsanding!



And finished product:



Then I got bored and painted it white... the easiest of all the colors.(IMO) No progress pics..






And then here we are today... I went with the sunrise red because it resembles the factory color so much. Pretty happy with the results.

Old wheels, new paint.


And how she looks as of now, new wheels, sunrise red.





Thanks for looking! I have better pictures on my computer at home, but I wanted to share what I could. This really is a great budget minded alternative.

Thanks for all the advice and tips throughout this thread!

purchased my harbor freight polisher and 3M rubbing compound

polished all four fenders, WOW!! ...

Got any tips on polishing? I'm still waiting a week for my paint to finish hardening and them I'm gonna buy a porter cable polisher.