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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38914
08/14/09 09:41 AM
08/14/09 09:41 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Quote:
? for marq if you remember i had the problem of putting autopaint on my car after a couple of months and had it all bubble up. so i gave up on the roller method but i am now back rolling after a few days drying i decided to try a test patch and put some autopaint over the brightside and nothing happened and i thought this is cool well after sand ing the brightside smooth i tried the autopaint again and it bubbled only around the edge of areas where i had sanded thru the brightside. other than that the brightside is looking fantastic.
wayne
The thing about Brightside paint is that it is designed to be used on all surfaces of a boat. So it is designed to withstand most chemical agents that might come in contact with it on a boat.. ( oil, gas, alcohol etc ). BUT like any paint there are some acetones ( like the carrier in some automotive spray paints - or nail polishes ) they can usually eat their way in to anything.
I can see the 'edge' being an achilles heel. In fact... even if you spray painted your entire car in automotive paint... and later went back to touch up some paint chips with - the odds are high that the edges of the paint chip would curl up and wrinkle. I have had that happen to me 'back in the old days' when I used automotive spray paint to do touch ups on road chips in my paint.
So I really think that there may be 'some' automotive paints that are unfriendly to 'other' paints - but even more importantly - they also tend to be unfriendly to themselves. The carrier - or liguid that carries the color pigment is actually the reason for the adverse reaction.
But we do know that enamel based paints and polyurathane single and two stage paints are compatible - and that their 'carrier' doesn't appear to have adverse reactios like acetone or other similar 'quick flashing ( quick drying ) paints ).
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#38915
08/14/09 12:18 PM
08/14/09 12:18 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,159
Cruising!
QuickDodge
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,159
Cruising!
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Peckinpah, It would be wise to experiment with the thicker coats of paint on an old fender, mail box or something. I'm going to guess that thicker paint will mean trouble getting the paint to cure in a reasonable time frame. If the paint is not sufficiently dry, it will be impossible to sand and polish it. (It will gum up the sand paper) I've seen thick coats of paint take many months to cure.
If a hardener is mixed into the paint, the thicker coats MAY work. (Hardener is Dangerous, so proper safety gear is required) The second option would be to bake the paint. (No idea on the required temperature, time needed, etc,)
One final thought, read the find print on the paint can. A lot of paint manfacturers recommend paining at temperatures below 90 degrees. You should also be aware of metal temperature. If the car has been out in the hot sun it needs time to cool before applying paint.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: QuickDodge]
#38916
08/14/09 03:54 PM
08/14/09 03:54 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,043
Motown, Mi
PAULS_340
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,043
Motown, Mi
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So if you want to use Rustoleum and paint a car Citron Yella...your out of luck? Or will someone mix Rustoleum?
Still looking for LM29H1B415501, '71 Demon 340
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#38917
08/14/09 06:31 PM
08/14/09 06:31 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 51
CA
Peckinpah
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 51
CA
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[QUOTE]That is weird. It sounds like you well sanded the surface and there shouldn't have been anything to cause a repellant type effect. The only thing I could think of would possibly be if you didn't use a clean cloth, dampened with mineral spirits, to wipe down the entire surface prior to painting....[/QUOTE]
Marq, as I recall, I think I might have just used a damp cloth to wipe down the truck after sanding down and roughing up the factory paint, then let it dry before applying my 50 50 mix of gloss white Rusto paint and white Rusto primer.
I bought a can of spray on Rusto in gloss white, and was thinking of using that to cover up the places where the factory paint is showing through, just to get some initial coverage to keep the factory paint from showing, then brushing or rolling on a couple coats of Rusto from the can with mineral spirits in the regular way.
I have a few places, like the edge of my hood, that I keep accidentally sanding down to the factory paint, and then when I try to brush on or roll on new paint, it just won't stick and is repelled similar to an oil and water effect. However, the spray on stuff sticks fine, even to unsanded factory paint, ad doesn't show through either.
Has anyone here combined rattle can spray on Rusto and the regular paint? I used spray on for my door jambs, and while it's not a perfect match, it's good enough for my purposes. I'm just worried though that the spray on paint might react with the roll on paint if the two are layered on top of each other.
If no one else has tried this, I guess I'll be the guinea pig and let you guys know how it goes.
Last edited by Peckinpah; 08/14/09 06:55 PM.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Peckinpah]
#38918
08/15/09 03:06 PM
08/15/09 03:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
69DartGT
OP
moparts member
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OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
Has anyone here combined rattle can spray on Rusto and the regular paint? I used spray on for my door jambs, and while it's not a perfect match, it's good enough for my purposes. I'm just worried though that the spray on paint might react with the roll on paint if the two are layered on top of each other.
If no one else has tried this, I guess I'll be the guinea pig and let you guys know how it goes.
I used Brightside 'Fire Red' to roll but door jams and other area's hard to reach I used Rustoleum 'Safety Red' rattle can spray paint to do those area's, the match is so close you can't tell it.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Peckinpah]
#38920
08/16/09 10:05 AM
08/16/09 10:05 AM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Indianapolis IN
Jones0007
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member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Indianapolis IN
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hello everybody, i'm not getting much shine on my paint job using RUstoleum's Painter's TOuch 2x Spray Paint(white color) I can't put pictures up right now but there's no shine, (there' are some small spots w/ some shine) I sanded the hood, w/ 2000, and put some rubbing compound, but that didn't do much. Any1 have any ideas on how to make this paint shine? will clear coat do it? HELP!!! 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Jones0007]
#38921
08/16/09 01:56 PM
08/16/09 01:56 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
hello everybody,
i'm not getting much shine on my paint job using RUstoleum's Painter's TOuch 2x Spray Paint(white color)
I can't put pictures up right now but there's no shine, (there' are some small spots w/ some shine)
I sanded the hood, w/ 2000, and put some rubbing compound, but that didn't do much.
Any1 have any ideas on how to make this paint shine?
will clear coat do it?
HELP!!!
In theory.... anything can be made to shine. The best example being simple stones that are put in a tumbler and spun and spun until their glossy.
My first thought about the problems you are having with the spray paint... might be that the paint itself simply doesn't have any gloss component. It's like there are three types of spray paints... flat, regular and gloss. It would take less work to encourage a higher shine on a high gloss paint as compared to the extra work you would have to put in to getting a shine on a flat paint...
I would not go to putting an artificial shine or coating over the paint. In the end you would find that it fails and requires ongoing maintenance to keep a shine on it.
The best way to clarify the color sanding is to give a read of this article.
http://www.automedia.com/Color-Sanding_and_Buffing/res20030601cs/1
Maybe you will pick up something that can help improve the situation...
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: 78D150CLUB]
#38922
08/16/09 02:26 PM
08/16/09 02:26 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Hi, I've been researching the $50 rustoleum paint job and have 2 weeks off. I started 2 days ago but am running into some problems.
1) The number 1 main issue is really 2 things, and those are that I'm getting orange peel and when wet sanding the next day the paint scrapes off very easily. I can actually scrape it off with my fingernail with little effort.
2) Number 2 is how do I know when the paint is actually dry?
3) and Number 3 is what is the purpose of wetsanding and how much pressure do I apply during each stage? As stated in number 1, I'm getting straight down through 2 coats to the original paint, that without really digging in.
I guess I would also like to know if leaving it out in the sun will help dry and harden it quicker.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Peckinpah]
#38923
08/16/09 08:02 PM
08/16/09 08:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
69DartGT
OP
moparts member
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OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
Didn't you say you had some coverage problems where the primer underneath was showing through in some spots?
My idea is, shoot some rattle can paint over those areas where the roll on paint is too thin, then put a couple of coats of roll on paint over that and wet sand as usual.
Would this cause problems, I wonder?
My really wasn't a problem just that the area's where I primed like my doors covered sooner but I still put the same number of coats on them as the rest, I'd just keep rolling how many coats so far?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Peckinpah]
#38925
08/18/09 09:30 PM
08/18/09 09:30 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 51
CA
Peckinpah
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 51
CA
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The fun continues. The spray-on paint went on well, and seems to blend in quite well with the roll on paint. Now whether it will peel off prematurely, I don't know, but so far so good.
I actually like using the spray on paint for touching up areas where I sanded thru to the factory paint. Much more convenient, IMHO, to use the spay can for touch-ups.
One problem though is that I accidentally bought the Turtle Wax red Buffing Compound instead of the Polishing compound. That stuff is bad news for white paint job, it leaves a nasty red residue that seems like it's etched right into the paint. Any ideas on how to get rid of this red residue?
Also, I'm still having problems with the paint beading off areas where the factory paint is exposed. I'm having this with the spray on as well as roll on Rustoleum. It goes on OK, but after a few seconds it beads up into tiny beads about two millimeters across. Very frustrating. It's almost as if the body of my truck has some kind of static charge that's repelling the paint. Any ideas? Is this happening to anyone else?
It was about 95 degrees today, if that makes a difference, but it was still happening earlier when the temps were in the high 80's.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38926
08/18/09 09:38 PM
08/18/09 09:38 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Well I have given up on trying to add pearl to the roll on method. I was able to successfully roll on the pearl paint and it looked great, however, once I started to wet sand the paint took on a blotchy look.  Its too bad because I really liked the pearl paint. I might continue on my test fender to see if I can get to the point where I can sand the pearlized paint. Anyways I took some 320 grit paper and did a quick sanding job and will apply the non-pearl brightside over it. I will probably add 3 coats before I get to the final sanding....
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Peckinpah]
#38927
08/19/09 12:23 AM
08/19/09 12:23 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Also, I'm still having problems with the paint beading off areas where the factory paint is exposed. I'm having this with the spray on as well as roll on Rustoleum. It goes on OK, but after a few seconds it beads up into tiny beads about two millimeters across. Very frustrating. It's almost as if the body of my truck has some kind of static charge that's repelling the paint. Any ideas? Is this happening to anyone else?
Any idea how 'virgin' that 'original' paint was ? For example, could it have been subjected to one of those acrylic quick shine type polishes in its lifetime ? Or could it have been subjected to one of the polishes that have teflon in it ?
What I am trying to figure is this : In 99% of the cases, a virgin paintjob should not be causing these kind of repellings. BUT I can imagine where some synthetic polish, teflon based polish or an acrylic type polish may have bonded with the old paint - and even with some sanding of that old paint... there is still enough of one of those potential repellants being able to give new paint a problem....
The only way I can describe this is to use a hair coloring story. Women love to change or supplement their hair color. BUT most of them are not aware that certain chemicals they may put on their hair can interfere when they go to do a hair coloring.
A lot of women like slapping stuff called HENNA on their hair. Basically henna is like a die colorant that simply sits on the outside of the hair shaft and gives off a color when viewed. BUT... if that same woman goes to her hair salon and wants to get her hair colored... the hair salon HAS TO strip off that henna coating or else the die colorant won't be able to penetrate the hair shaft and change its color.
In some cases the chemicals women slap on their hair penetrate the hair shaft. When the hair color die is applied... it may react nicely or adversely with that other chemical that is already resident in the hair shaft. You have heard of the famous hair job that turns green or orange.... or where the hair dries out and ends up looking like straw.
So the point of those stories is just to explain my train of thought on how some 'past' chemical applied to the old paint job... may be coming back to haunt you now with its repelling capability.
In a worse case scenario, if the surface sanding and wipe down with the mineral spirit dampened cloth has removed such artifacts, the only way to ensure proper adhesion may be to sand down to the original primer of the original paint. Hopefully by that point you would have eliminated any potential artifacts in the old paint that might be causing the repelling effect.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#38928
08/19/09 12:29 AM
08/19/09 12:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
andyoucankeepit
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
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i have been searching for answers for 2.5 hours now...too much to read through.
if you were to choose to spray clear over rustoleum paint, what type of clear do you use?
i can't seem to find any finished cars in semi-gloss or flat black. all of the older pictures are now missing.
fowljesse said he was goign to polish a spot of the aluminum and post a picture, but i can't seem to find one.
anyone else have any good pics of the aluminum?
03 cobra, 85 mustang, 59 galaxie, 68 sportster
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38929
08/19/09 12:31 AM
08/19/09 12:31 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Well I have given up on trying to add pearl to the roll on method. I was able to successfully roll on the pearl paint and it looked great, however, once I started to wet sand the paint took on a blotchy look. Its too bad because I really liked the pearl paint. I might continue on my test fender to see if I can get to the point where I can sand the pearlized paint.
Anyways I took some 320 grit paper and did a quick sanding job and will apply the non-pearl brightside over it. I will probably add 3 coats before I get to the final sanding....
This is what we figured out about the aluminum dust and other things that could be put on to the paint. BUT there is one way you could still get the pearl effect....
What you do is roll your pearled paint up to the point where you are pleased with its overall look on the car. THEN you add 3 coats of JUST PAINT without the pearl. Since the 3 just paint coats are thin... they would be translucent enough that you will still see the effects of the pearl below.
This way... you would have the 3 additional thin coats acting somewhat like a protective layer that would allow you to wet sand the paint only layer and go for the shine. But since the three thin layers are 'see throughable'... well the pearl would still be visible.... below the surface. Although the pearl will get a bit of tint...
For example, if your pearl is silverish... and the three thin coats of protecctive layer paint is blue... the pearl when seen below will take on a blue tint. But the pearl effect will still be visible - albeit somewhat subdued compared to when it was on the surface.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#38930
08/19/09 05:03 PM
08/19/09 05:03 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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definitely food for thought. I will try this on my test fender and see how it goes. I am anxious to get the car on the road so I might try this the next time I paint a car 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Peckinpah]
#38932
08/20/09 07:58 AM
08/20/09 07:58 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
andyoucankeepit
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
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has anyone had good luck putting layers on by just wiping down, and not sanding between coats?
i am now trying to get sort of a build up, then block sand down to get a more even finish.
still haven't found what clear to use if deciding to use it.
03 cobra, 85 mustang, 59 galaxie, 68 sportster
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