Thanks. I was actually planning to sand it anyway. I guess I was wondering if the Rustoleum might work like those rust converter coatings that claim to convert rust to paintable primer. As I think about it, probably not. I just hope the roll on rustoleum primer helps prevent the rust from coming back. I've got the left fender primered, as seen in the previous photo, next is the hood then the right fender. Then I'll work back to the doors and cab, then on back to the bed.

Thanks again. I can't wait to get this truck all one color, even if it is just a primer.

I don't know if it helps but I used Rustoleums rusty metal primer straight out of the can on the inside of my truck bed, use foam brush in the tight area's and rolled the rest, no runs, drips or errors it went on very well.

alright its finnaly time for some updates. Apparently lowes screwed me and gave me the wrong kind of primer, the guy handed me latex

so I had to spray rusto primer from a can onto the car. All of the primerd spots of the car means that the bondo is done there.



roof



left side of the deck lid still needs more work



right side of the car is fully done.



its getting there, slowely but shurly.

If you have a spray gun just go down to your local autoparts store and get a quart of Dupilcolor gray lacquer primer along with some lacquer thinner and shoot the car, then a light sand tack rag and start rolling.
Look at the door then the rest I fully primed the door & the coverage was much better.

I don't really have access to a spray gun or a compresser, so I'm just going to have to go back and ask the guy to give me the RIGHT stuff. The whole car is going to be primerd evenly though one way or another

If you have a test piece maybe a spare old fender try rolling rustoleum rusty metal primer on it, I rolled it straight out of the can in my trucks bed it went on great actaully better than the finish paint, it self leveled zero high spots ridges etc, be worth a try.

hm, I may try that. I have spare hoods, fenders, deck lids, you name it. You tend to collect alot of parts when your working on cars

hey Marq, is this what you had in mind for an evil Herbie

Read your guide Marq,and have some questions about Brightside. Sorry about my rusty english.


1.Original paint is good, no rust or flaking. I'm not sure what primer i must use. INTERLUX PRE-KOTE or YACHT PRIMER? What is the difference between these two? And can something happend when i'm using a 1k primer when the original paint on my car is 2k? Chemical reaction?

2.Do i have to sand the whole car before i apply INTERLUX PRE-KOTE or YACHT PRIMER? Can i just sand away paint that is a little higher than the rest after some touch-up over the years? Original paint is pretty good. I'm going to wash the car first with soap, then use some grease remover a couple of times.

3.If i sand through to metal when preparing the car, must i use a different primer than INTERLUX?

4.Is it better to use dry paper than wetsanding the INTERLUX PRE-KOTE or YACHT PRIMER?


5.I've read the manual (PRE-KOTE and Brightside), and i'm a little unsure about the drying time and laying the first coat of paint. I'm going to paint the car outside, so if it rains a couple of days i must wait to apply the first coat of paint. But in the manual it says this(pre-kote, UK manual): Apply 1-2 coats. If maximum overcoating time of previous coating/primer is exceeded, abrade using 220-320 grade wet or dry paper. How important is it to follow the manual in this case? Dp i really have to sand down the primer if i exceed the overcoating time?

6.When using thinner NR333 with a cloth before laying a new coat of paint, how long must i wait before painting?

7.When sanding, do you sand up and down, circles? Is there a special direction you sand?

8. How important is it to use High Density Foam Rollers? I'm not sure what i can get here in Norway.


Hope you can answer some of the questions. Thanks!

captianc, 1st welcome to the board.
Brightside goes over most all primers, I used lacquer primer from my local auto parts store.
To thin the brightside I used mineral spirits, worked great, Marq should chime in soon.

captainc, If you had not mentioned it, I would not have noticed that english was not your first language.

Regarding sanding, nobody likes to sand any more than they have to. Unfortunaltely you must sand everywhere you want paint/primer to stick. If you skimp on that vital part of the paint preparation process, the new paint will eventually peel and flake off in the areas where the sanding was inadequate. That is also true for primer that was allowed to dry past the time specified in the instructions on the primer container.

alright, I finnaly went out and bought the RIGHT primer for the car. At least I'm hoping its the right kind, will the white bare metal rusto primer do the job?

heres the stuff

I don't see why not. Especially if you're going with Canvas White. My Jeep still had the original paint with no bare metal so I skipped the primer and just hit it with 400 before starting to roll. How's it going? Any more pics?

cool

its going well, I'm making progress, slowely but shurley. Not quite ready for progress pics yet, it'll look pretty much exactly the same as it did in the last pics. I'm almost done with the sides of the car, I still need to do more work on the deck lid and rear apron, then its just this damn roof. I'm finnaly making head way on the roof but its taking forever!

One thing to remember that is an "oil based" primer so when we use that type you are limited to using Rustoleum type paints over it.
Not a big deal.

.....your kidding...right?

Do you guys strongly suggest a roll-on primer before the paint?
If its bare metal you are rolling the paint on, what do you sand it to for best adhension? what about if your applying the new paint on old paint, then what do you sand to?
Thanks