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One last question. Are you guys mixing all your paint and storing it. Or are you mixing paint with mineral spirits at each coating. in small batches?

Also would a better color match be acheived if all 3-4 qt cans of color were mixed in a large container and then divided back into smaller ones for storage. has there been any color differences noticable from a fender doen with one can and a hood fro another?

thanx

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I have been reading these posts for several months and getting ready to paint my 63 Mercury Comet white with blue Shelby stripes. I plan on rollerizing most of the car and spraying the hard to get places, like door jams and trunk. I am still sanding and filling and have some time for planning... Just curious if the jams and hard to reach places are painted before or after the large panels are rolled?
Thanks!

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Mercurymarc,

Frankly I wouldn't bother spraying the door jambs - I painted mine with a foam brush and they came out great. Too much hassle with masking and overspray by spraying them.

Good luck !
Frank.

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"Where the hell did your dad get the Lamborghini Countach paint? Does he have one?"

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OMG wow that's excellent! too funny

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Hi Soopernaut.
I cant picture the textured roof - is it like a vinyl roof ? I guess you could scuff it with a soft wire brush. It wont be a problem rollering it as long as you dont put too much paint on the roller.
The foam will contour to the texture as you roll I believe.
As for one thin coat on the bottom, that will prob be OK for flash rust, but in the long term it will be too thin to protect from stones etc.
I would go straight unthinned on the bottom - or maybe 5% thinned.
Cheers,
Frank.

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As for one thin coat on the bottom, that will prob be OK for flash rust, but in the long term it will be too thin to protect from stones etc.
I would go straight unthinned on the bottom - or maybe 5% thinned.
Cheers,
Frank.

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OR... what you could do is this. Most cars have a rockguard or chipguard type coating on their lower panels. It is a clear plastic coating that looks somewhat like a smooth ornage peel with a plastic coating over it.

Sooooooooo... what I would do... I paint the lower sections at the same time as you paint the upper panels BUT NEVER go back and sand those lower panels. This way you will build up a faster and thicker layer of paint on those lower panels. You would continue as usual to do all the proper sanding and finishing on the upper panels.

In the end... if you follow this pattern of painting and not sanding the lower panels, the paint accumulated will be at least twice as thick as the uppper panels.

When the entire paint job is finished and you have been able to let the paint job fully cure... you could go to your automotive jobber shop and buy a can of the clear plastic 'chipguard' or 'rockguard' or whatever they call that stuff. Then you would just roll a layer of that coating over the unsanded lower panels... sealing the paint under the safety of the plasticky and fairly durable chipguard coating.

NOW... if you car was painted black... you might be able to cheat a little... by buying a can of that Rhinoskin ( or Rhinoguard ) or whatever the heck they call it. It is a black plasticky coating that they sell to protect the bed of the pckup trucks. It has great adhesion and it is more then durable enough to withstand rock gravel that may bounce off it. I am not sure... but I think it only comes in BLACK. That is why I was suggesting that it might be a good alternative coating for the lower panels on a black vehicle.

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As for one thin coat on the bottom, that will prob be OK for flash rust, but in the long term it will be too thin to protect from stones etc.
I would go straight unthinned on the bottom - or maybe 5% thinned.
Cheers,
Frank.

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OR... what you could do is this. Most cars have a rockguard or chipguard type coating on their lower panels. It is a clear plastic coating that looks somewhat like a smooth ornage peel with a plastic coating over it.

Sooooooooo... what I would do... I paint the lower sections at the same time as you paint the upper panels BUT NEVER go back and sand those lower panels. This way you will build up a faster and thicker layer of paint on those lower panels. You would continue as usual to do all the proper sanding and finishing on the upper panels.

In the end... if you follow this pattern of painting and not sanding the lower panels, the paint accumulated will be at least twice as thick as the uppper panels.

When the entire paint job is finished and you have been able to let the paint job fully cure... you could go to your automotive jobber shop and buy a can of the clear plastic 'chipguard' or 'rockguard' or whatever they call that stuff. Then you would just roll a layer of that coating over the unsanded lower panels... sealing the paint under the safety of the plasticky and fairly durable chipguard coating.

NOW... if you car was painted black... you might be able to cheat a little... by buying a can of that Rhinoskin ( or Rhinoguard ) or whatever the heck they call it. It is a black plasticky coating that they sell to protect the bed of the pckup trucks. It has great adhesion and it is more then durable enough to withstand rock gravel that may bounce off it. I am not sure... but I think it only comes in BLACK. That is why I was suggesting that it might be a good alternative coating for the lower panels on a black vehicle.

.

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Thanks for the reply. I was actually refering to the bottom of the floors not the bottom of the side panels. This will be painted separately probably in a different color.

Is this Rhinoskin something you roll on or spray on? I think Rustoleum paint would serve the same purpose and may be cheaper so I'm leaning that direction.

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Thanks for the reply. I was actually refering to the bottom of the floors not the bottom of the side panels. This will be painted separately probably in a different color.

Is this Rhinoskin something you roll on or spray on? I think Rustoleum paint would serve the same purpose and may be cheaper so I'm leaning that direction.

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