Antwon and 69Chevelle, which Nason / Kirker clears did you use? Please post the ID number of the clear, reducer, and the hardener.

Did you use any hardner in the Rustoleum?

If you are getting excess bubbles and they are not rolling out you may not have thoroughly mixed your paint with thinner.

Another problem may be relative humidity. I had this problem at one stage in my painting and reverted to straight paint out of the can and it worked beautifully. Normally I was having to mix as much as 75%. Try either of these and let us know.

I used the Kirker Zoom flash dry high solids acrylic urethane clear (v2010g) and the reducer/activator (3075) i rolled it on waaay too many bubbles so spray it and you can also used the reducer/activator to help the rustoleum dry harder and faster

well guys, i'm going to paint my m body in gloss black, in all my expierience in painting, i'm seeing some very simple mistakes that some have made. A few simple tips. One, stir the paint, don't mix it.. less air better results. once paint is stirred in with your reducer. aka spirits let sit for a while for all of the air bubble to expel. when painting. gently put the roller in there so not to introduce extra air and more bubbles. put on overlapping coats, just like airbrushing or compressed air painting, let dry throughly, I would only wet sand with 1500 grit wet sandpaper for cars. fold the paper in two quarters and keep your fingers togehter and flat otherwise you will see streaks from pressure marks on your paint. I use a few drops of ivory in the warm water to lubricate the paper for ease of sanding. Use a rubber squeege only to remove the water and residue, nothing else. wipe dry with a dry lint free cloth. Orange peel is caused by dirty painting surfaces, aka, oil, grease a mist of wd-40 in the air as you sprayed down your bolts a half a block a way, it all affect the paint and causes orange peel. ON all of the edges do not sand them right to the edge, or raised pieces, you will burn through it in a second. you will not really notice if you don't wetsand just that little bit since it's a very small part of the overall sanding process. Finally buff, if you have a orbital buffer, great, less chance for burn through. If not, keep your speeds low around 3k rpm or so, not screaming, put on the buffing compound liberally and use the buffer to start the job and finish it. It should come out very very good, and a good coat of pure carnuba wax after roughly 30 days and don't wash it either and you should be good to go for years to come. Good luck all and I will post up pics when i'm in the process too.

entity, Thanks for that, really helped...I plan on picking up a squeegge now.

But I have a question, I just rolled my first layer of Gloss White Tremclad and I ran into a problem

I didnt do enough research here and I kind of just rolled paint on the car and kinda wanted to see what would happen...Everything looks good except that i have a few runs that you can see on the doors, but you can't feel the runs, its really smooth..Do I have to sand it down or can I go ahead and roll my 2nd coat then sand.

I tried sanding with 600 grit, but i found it really hard, its very sticky because of the paint.. even with water..But maybe iam using the wrong sand paper so tommorow i'll go buy some 3M

also another question, do i have to wipe the car down with Mineral Spirits every time i am going to paint? or was that just for the first coat

I love the workability of this paint. I've had great success with a foam brush and mixtures at least 60% MS to paint - used on bumpers, small parts, or horizontal surfaces. Basically, anything I can soak evenly from one side of the object to the other - stuff comes out like glass. One single pass defintely seems best, with a quick light catch of drips off the object for a minute after the surface is done.

For everything else though - panels or anything else on the car - I only have three words to say:

Spray. Spray. Spray.

Marq,
Thanks for your help. I'll try some of your suggestions and see if I get different results.
I'm going to follow my wife's advice this time: "If it isn't working, quit." I painted the entire front half of the jeep before giving up. I kept thinking the bubbles would lay down but they didn't. Of course, when you finally find a time that you can paint, you hate to go to all that trouble and just paint one fender.

The parts that already had 2 or 3 coats were done at least a couple of weeks ago, so surely it has cured out. Another part of the jeep was freshly sanded down to bare metal. The paint was mixed together over a month ago. I mixed two quarts so I would have the same color each time.
Here's some things I check.
1) I didn't give the mineral spirits much time to dry after I wiped it down. Washed, wiped, and painted. (I was losing daylight fast!)
2) My paint may not have been thin enough. It seemed thin but the bubbles were hard to pop. Even when they popped, it didn't seem to level out.
3) I didn't let the paint set after I mixed the mineral spirits either, I just started rolling.

Now I've got to sand, sand, sand! My jeep looks like alligator skin.
Thanks

Freaking Dog Hair and Flys are pissing me off..I'm on my 2nd coat and have like 15+ hairs stuck to paint..Hope sanding fixes this

I have been lurking here for awhile but my experience is that the bugs and hair both sanded out nicely. I finished painting my car just on the weekend.

A link to the finished pictures.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=11184&l=132a9&id=652522105

^ LOL...I really hope sanding takes car of it tho..I was planning on using 600 but now i think i got to use 400 since i found hair from the 1st coat, and i have a coat of fresh paint on top of all that ...sigh

Ugh...hair. I had my fair share in every coat too. I tack ragged, blew it off with air, washed it, yadda yadda yadda. You know what I did that I think finally made a difference? I cleaned the garage! I vacuumed the heck out of it, and then let the dust settle for a day before moving on to the next coat. It really seemed to cut down on the debris. Not that my garage was a sty to begin with, but every little bit of effort helps.

To the guy with the red Niva, Ladas FTW!

BTW, here's another photo of a success story...my road race car doing a autocross this past weekend. It still needs the graphics. Nobody believes I painted it with a roller:
BMW at the autocross

Great job ddavidv, all the other new posters and Angela (aka HeyYou). 'bout time we got some women showing their results on this board. The British boards had quite a few women roller painting, I was wondering when we would get some here.

Oh yeah! another downfall to the paint in the garage method! Went through it myself but although frustrating, it does 'hone' your fine sanding skills.

New member also trying the roll on paint job. Decided to go with the gloss black on my 85 Yota 4x4. Thought about the army green like harbison did but I'll save that for my next project (87 Wrangler)

Started with the hood since it had the most surface rust.

Before pic



Really didn't do any serious sanding. Just 180 grit with a DA. Hope that doesn't show up later. Rolled on 1-2 coats of rustoleum gloss black. Had some bubbles form but they all went away after it dried. Which I was suprised how quickly that was considering it was about 39 degrees outside. Really suprised at the shine with only two coats. Hope I didn't put it on to thick. Plan to wet sand and put on more coats tomorrow. Keep yall updated!

After




Disregard the dust and cat prints

I finally got around to trying this. (on my beer fridge) I sprayed one coat and it went on great, only problem is that it was a big pain to clean up. So I started trying the roller method, this is what I found out.

to anyone who has been having many problems with bubbles, try to ditch the foam roller and get more of a conventional thin napped roller cover. You can buy them for the same 4" roller you have already. I had some 4" regular roller covers and it worked great, then I tried the foam ones and I started to get bubbles like crazy, so I went back to the woolly type ones. You can buy them that are made to be more shed resistant. I think you will have much better luck.

Brew

I have a quick question about prepwork, after i learned my lesson the hard way but my sander takes the old paint down to bare metal and i was wondering if I should use primer or not