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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: bigsbigelow]
#37374
08/24/07 12:10 AM
08/24/07 12:10 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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coat 6 , still no wetsanding,no orange peel,thin , thin , thin ,, just painted black rims 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37375
08/24/07 01:53 AM
08/24/07 01:53 AM
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[img]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/BAD91Si/fogsonly.jpg?t=1187934955[/img]
test
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37376
08/24/07 02:14 AM
08/24/07 02:14 AM
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i think you guys are getting shiny-er results than me because your thinning the rustoleum.
Has anyone tried the electric HVLP guns? For $60 are they worth getting? Or will it be a waste of more money?
What is the difference between mineral spirits and acetone? The rustoleum says right on the can use acetone to thin it.
I desperately need to find a way to make this car shiny for cheap. I wont mind investing the $60 in the wagner gun as long as it does a decent job and will last many paintjobs....
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37377
08/24/07 12:37 PM
08/24/07 12:37 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Quote:
i think you guys are getting shiny-er results than me because your thinning the rustoleum.
By thinning the paint and building up layer after layer of thinned paint.. you are giving depth and shine to your paint job. When you slap on straight paint there is no depth to the paint and you are getting your shine only from the top glossy layer.
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Has anyone tried the electric HVLP guns? For $60 are they worth getting? Or will it be a waste of more money?
It can be done... but it is MESSY... you end up with overspray EVERYWHERE. You also are putting dangerous vapors into the air which will end up in your nostrils and lungs. The whole point of the roller method was to provide a mess free and cheap way of getting a good coat of paint on to your vehicle.
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What is the difference between mineral spirits and acetone? The rustoleum says right on the can use acetone to thin it.
Two major differences... drying (curing) time and hazardous vapors. Mineral spirits gives the paint plenty of time to SELF LEVEL and be worked. Acetone dries too quickly and the vapors it gives off are dangerous to your health.
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I desperately need to find a way to make this car shiny for cheap. I wont mind investing the $60 in the wagner gun as long as it does a decent job and will last many paintjobs....
Good results can be had with a spray gun... BUT your average Joe is probably going to botch it up. The roller paint method is more forgiving and mistakes can be made and corrected as you go along.
Sadly all of these questions have been previously discussed at length during the course of this message thread.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37378
08/24/07 02:37 PM
08/24/07 02:37 PM
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Quote:
[img]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/BAD91Si/fogsonly.jpg?t=1187934955[/img]
test
Still no image. I don't know if you are editing those or not, but my link from photobucket shows as IMG in all uppercase when I post it into a message, and mine work.
Glad Marq got to you on the other questions ... since power went out here as I was gonna reply.
From what I recall about the lengthy discussion on the Wagner here it was determined that the CHEAPO Wagners do not work for an auto ... if I remember correctly, it was determined that if Wagner was too embarassed to put the PSI of the gun on the box, don't use it. As for all the other particulars, there was some discussion a while back, and most of it started from work found by members of honda-tech or one of the other honda forums. As for all the drawbacks from that method, I think Marq hit on all of them.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37379
08/24/07 10:31 PM
08/24/07 10:31 PM
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I'm having a problem with the buffing stage - can anyone help?
I finally worked up the nerve to try this method with the Rustoleum and started with my truck's tailgate. Everything went exactly as 69charger-guy said it would waaayyyy back in part one of this discussion and I followed his directions accordingly.
Once I had that 6th and final coat on, I was really impressed. It had such a deep shine, I was tempted to just stop right there, but if you looked closely you could still see tiny little bumps from where the bubbles popped as well as some brush strokes (er...roller strokes I mean), so I decided to go ahead and wet sand a final time with 1500 grit and then break out the orbital buffer.
Problem is, it seems like I've been buffing forever...REPETEDLY...and its just not quite bringing back that deep shine, like how it looks if you wipe the surface down with the mineral spirits to test what it should look like.
In part 1, 69charger said "use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u,depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing".
Am I just not being patient enough or am I doing something wrong? Should I be using something other than a terry-cloth bonnet on my orbital buffer in order to cut quicker? Help!
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37380
08/24/07 11:54 PM
08/24/07 11:54 PM
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Anonymous
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 On this board the image tag is different than other boards, you need to use the (image)(/image) tags here, the other mistake you are doing is posting the link to the file followed by "?t=1187934955" , this is telling the browser to use the script on photobucket's server so that the image displays only in their pages. the image file should (usually) end in .jpg, .gif, or .png (if allowed by this board) to correctly display here. HTH
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37381
08/25/07 01:42 AM
08/25/07 01:42 AM
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I just post the IMG Code link .... and when I go back and open the editor to look at those tags, the forum has changed them to the image tags. Take a look at yours above if you posted it from photobuckets IMG link without changing it. I do agree that this extra stuff he is adding by viewing the full size image on pbucket and copying the properties is probably the problem. Here, I will try his without that here. And I will change his lower case img tags to the same uppercase ones from the photobucket link that you are supposed to copy and post into the forum .... which again seems to work for most of us. See .... the IMG tag does work ... and this one I just edited what he had above, and like you I removed that extra info that was keeping it from working.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37382
08/25/07 04:27 AM
08/25/07 04:27 AM
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If you are using Turtlewax to do your buffing then you will need to buff it pretty much for ever before you can get a decent shine out of it. If you use a decent orbital polisher (like a PC7424) together with some decent cutting compound/swirl remover then you can achieve spectacular results pretty quickly. The pic below is of my hardtop that I painted with Brightside Gloss Black, wet sanded and then did two passes with my orbital polisher using a cutting pad and Poorboy's SSR3 cutting compound.  There is no reason why you can't achieve similar results if you use 'proper' polishing equipment and a good cutting compound/swirl remover like the Poorboy's.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37383
08/25/07 06:24 AM
08/25/07 06:24 AM
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Quote:
If you are using Turtlewax to do your buffing then you will need to buff it pretty much for ever before you can get a decent shine out of it.
If you use a decent orbital polisher (like a PC7424) together with some decent cutting compound/swirl remover then you can achieve spectacular results pretty quickly.
The pic below is of my hardtop that I painted with Brightside Gloss Black, wet sanded and then did two passes with my orbital polisher using a cutting pad and Poorboy's SSR3 cutting compound.
.....
There is no reason why you can't achieve similar results if you use 'proper' polishing equipment and a good cutting compound/swirl remover like the Poorboy's.
I was indeed using the Turtle wax white compound because I was trying to follow 69charger's instructions to the letter. It is working, I can see some improvement, but like you said it looks like it would take another 20 applications to get the results I want.
I have a compound made by AutoMagic called PowerCut Plus. It sounds and physically looks identical to the Poorboy SSR3 - same color and everything, and when I do a search online for SSR3, it has the same description for use. I'll give that a try today.
Quick question - Poorboys instructions say to follow up the use of SSR3 with an application of SSR1. Did you do this to get your results? Should I follow the SSR3 / Power Cut Plus applications with an application of the Turtle wax polishing compound I was using or should I buy the AutoMagic equivalent of SSR1 (which is called Gloss Restorer in their terms) and use that.
....or do I just leave it alone after the SSR3 application?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37384
08/25/07 07:46 AM
08/25/07 07:46 AM
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For the pic that I posted above, I just used the SSR3. But I wouldn't recommend finishing the job there. On my hood I used SSR3, then SSR2.5, then the Poorboy's Professional Polish and then I topped it off with the EX-P synthetic sealant.  Although to be honest I now wish that I had given it a couple more coats of polish before I applied the sealant....
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37385
08/25/07 07:48 PM
08/25/07 07:48 PM
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ok, i've bought my supplies, but what i need to know and i did try to find it, but the threads are just to big, didnt i read that some have used a foam brush instead of rolling? if so what are the details?
thanks
catfish
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37386
08/25/07 08:07 PM
08/25/07 08:07 PM
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37387
08/25/07 09:31 PM
08/25/07 09:31 PM
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Thanks for the help Aussie Driver! Since I had some shine on it from the repeated white polishing compound applications, I decided to forgo the SSR3 type-abrasive stuff and start over with the gloss restorer (their version of SSR2.5) and go from there.
I got a nice shine out of it now, but it does appear a little bit orange peely. Peely, but uniformly shiny....it's wierd and hard to describe. It still looks good, but not as good as your the finish in your picture does. Does this mean that I.....
A. Didn't wet sand thoroughly/uniformly enough?
B. Didn't thin the paint out enough with the mineral spirits?
C. Wound up with the peel effect from allowing the millions of bubbles to pop on their own as the paint self leveled?
In short, what did I do wrong and how can I get avoid this with the next panel I do? I really think it was caused by "C", but shouldn't it have been fixed by "A"?
Also, is there any reason I can't dry sand with a random orbit sander in between coats as opposed to wet sanding? I would think a machine would make knock down the high spots more uniformly than doing it by hand.
Last edited by quadrajet; 08/25/07 09:39 PM.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37388
08/25/07 10:50 PM
08/25/07 10:50 PM
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If you have orange peel in the paint that you don't want once it's polished then keep wetsanding until it's all gone.
Once you have finished painting then don't worry about finding the cause of the orange peel unless you plan on painting another car. My guess of the cause though would be not enough thinning.
Dry sanding isn't a good idea at all. Every time that you dry sand you end up with a lot of pick-up on the sandpaper. If you were trying to sand paint dry then the pick-up would imprint all kinds of bizzar marks into the paint and leave you with a less-than-perfect finish.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37389
08/26/07 07:26 PM
08/26/07 07:26 PM
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For you guys wanting to darken the rustoleum red, I suggest adding a dark blue instead of black, too much blue will start to purple it, but it wont start turning brown. Is the flag blue a dark blue? That will do the job. Not so much that it starts to look purple, ya gotta know when to stop.
You could also throw in a pinch of the burgundy.....
Last edited by MEAN88Si4WS; 08/27/07 12:25 AM.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37390
08/26/07 09:09 PM
08/26/07 09:09 PM
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After wetsanding the hood with up to 2000 sandpaper, I painted the fenders, sprayed them with rustoleum, the first coat did not come out too good, I needed to thin the paint more, after wetsanding the fenders with 400, then 600 I sprayed a second coat, diluting the solution to a 70% paint/30% MS and this time they came out great !! will wait a few hours then will spray a third coat without wetsanding. here are 3 images:   
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: tsbrewers]
#37392
08/26/07 11:03 PM
08/26/07 11:03 PM
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Quote:
I have read pretty much the entire thread(s) (ouch) and came up with a question. I know some here have sprayed their paint on with HVLP and used the MS, I am wondering if there is another catalyst that we can use for spraying that thins out the paint, but doesn't retard the drying time as much, like acetone? I have read a few problems spraying it with the MS (runs) so I am thinking something that flashes a little faster would be better to use when spraying? Thanks,
Brew
good question Brew.
I will do a test and see how it comes out using Acetone instead of MS.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37393
08/26/07 11:11 PM
08/26/07 11:11 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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The acetone will flash much quicker.... BUT you better have an oxygen tank slapped on your back to avoid breathing the fumes. And don't have any open source flames where you are putting that acetone laced vapor into the air. The main flaw I would suspect with the paint flashing too quickly is that it is not going to allow the paint the time to naturally self level. And acetone is pretty nasty stuff all round. Acetone can eat into plastics, remove enamels, cleans hardened nail polish etc. So based on acetones nasty ability to eat things prior to it evaporating and drying, my biggest fear would be that when the second coat is sprayed the acetone will spend half of its energy trying to eat the paint layer below and the other half of its energy evaporating. IF it is able to eat or soften the lower layer of hardened paint, I suspect you would get a bad case of orange peel or elephant skin  But most importantly keep the health reason in the back of your mind if you plan to experiment with acetone... .
Last edited by Marq; 08/26/07 11:15 PM.
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