Quote:

---

Quote:

---

You might however want to consider a 160 degree thermosat, just to keep the engine as cool as possible as quickly as possible.

---

If we put the 160 t-stat in, the motor will not heat up anymore than about 160 degrees correct?

I've heard you lose power if the motor runs too cool and that it may not be good for the motor long-term if it does not run hot enough. This is a street car not a drag car.

Any follow-up comments on my reply?

Thanks, Rob

---

Quote:

---

The motor ran cooler than it did before we changed the stat. What are your thoughts while the radiator is off to hook up a wet/dry shop vac

---

I would go ahead & have the rad flushed & I dont think the shop vac will help you. we're getting there EDIT I'd take off the front carb & bump up the center carb's jets 4 sizes for a test

Quote:

---

Looked in the radiator and there was an orange thing floating around. We ran the car without the stat. On the highway the factory temp gauge was dead center. In-town driving the factory temp gauge was at 3/4 and at idle the gauge climbed near the top of the safe zone.
Any thoughts or recommendations?

---

The primary jetting is OK. I would have the rad flushed(along w the rest of the system) to get that crap out of there. You do need a stat(at least 180) in there but I'd leave it out for a few days until you get this sorted out. Since the rad is good at speed I am thinking airflow plus you have a good Mancini pump in there. Can you sub in a fixed blade fan for a test and WHERE in the shroud is your fan located? I'm not sure if 1/8-14" gap on the shroud/rad is enough to make a (big)difference but you could duct tape the gaps for the idling in your driveway test but from you partly cleaning the rad & that made a difference I would do that 1st and get a Milodon hi flow 180 stat for when this gets resolved. We're almost there

Quote:

---

Hate to say it - But there could bee a 100 more of those plugged up inside your radiator core. Permatex copper silicone

---

Quote:

---

factory radiator ?
Has it ever been re-cored ? Professionally cleaned or boiled ?

---

Quote:

---

I would have the rad flushed(along w the rest of the system) to get that crap out of there.

---

Quote:

---

Can you sub in a fixed blade fan for a test and WHERE in the shroud is your fan located?

---

Quote:

---

Did you use a HIGH FLOW robertshaw type thermostat??? Milodon also sells this type of thermostat but my local NAPA did not sell them. Also use more water and less antifrese and the water wetter as mentioned by Dayclona, Try a Milodon or Edelbrock pump (440source sells them too) if you really want to run cool and check your cap for holding pressure.

---

Quote:

---

As you may recall, I too am having an overheating problem with my 383. No one has said anything about the post entered by DAYCLONA on June 24 about removing the Prestone antifreeze and substituting with ZEREX G-05. Seems as though he's done everything to eliminate the problem and then the G-05 solved it. Could it be that easy?
Anyone got any thoughts on this?

---

James, my daytona had hot running situations, only a few times, it really lost it and puked,....I'd run a constant 200-220 moving around town, if I got stuck in bumper to bumper crawling traffic for more than 10-15 minutes, the temp would rise to 240-250 real quick!.... hyway, it would drop to 200 degrees,.....and I played with all the combo's, EVERYTHING was new, as this was a fresh total restoration/build,....carburation was addressed (6pak), timing, cooling system, everything,......the Zerex G-05 was a guess at best,.....but with no other changes, other than flushing the system, the car went from running in the 200-220 in traffic, to 180-200, running a 50/50 mix G-05/water,....after reading some mag reports on what waterwetters worked and what didn't, I went with the Redline product, 8 oz bottle to the 50/50 G-05,.....that was good for a 20 degree drop, now I have the opposite problem, waiting for the engine to warm up!,.....I took the Mellon out for a ride yesterday, it was quite humid, temp was around mid 80's, in the past it would hit 200+ easily cruising even at that temp,.....I was lucky if I saw no more than 180,....and I'm running a 180 thermostat, and I have a 5 row micro tube radiator, shroud, solid blade factory fan, plus wingcar seals through out the nose, and radiator channeling air to just the radiator


I'd highly recommend the G-05 Zerex brand and Redline waterwetter, it's not to be confused with Dexcool, which is junk, the Zerex is intended as a replacement for "green juice" users