I have a 727 behind a 318 in my '72 W200.

I recently swapped a 4bbl intake and carb on in place of the stock 2bbl setup. I had to extend the kickdown linkage, and now have it setup pretty well. At WOT, the linkage can't go any farther back, and under moderate throttle it hits 3rd at around 35mph.

Problem is, I have no partial throttle kickdown, or full throttle kickdown. I've read here that 71+ should have PTK?

My dad thinks it used to at least have full throttle kickdown. However, I don't remember it working before I did the carb swap.

I have receipts from '86 when it was rebuilt and had a 'Trans-go shift kit' installed. I'm guessing it's the TF-2? Would that remove PTK/FTK?

Any ideas or things I could check?

Thanks,
-Dave

Trucks didn't get PTK until '73.

At what road speed are you checking for WOT KD? With a high numeric axle ratio and some TF-2 mods the WOT KD will be limited to lower speeds.

It has 4.10 gears in the rear, and 32" tires. I've checked everything from 25 to 55mph (~2700 rpm @ 55mph), and haven't gotten it to kickdown.

I have no idea what mods the shift kit has, or if it's even a TF-2

My FSM lists several reasons why KD might not work, including the KD linkage not being correct (I believe mine is good), or problems with the governer, KD servo, or an internal VB leak. All the internal ones I have no good idea how to test.

Interesting that 73+ got PTK. For some reason I thought it was 71+ (cars probably?). So, it sounds like I could add this PTK module and get PTK? Or will it not work with the trans-go kit?
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...;gonew=1#UNREAD

Thanks for the reply
-Dave

V8 cars got PTK in '71, the pre-'73 trucks can be retrofit, just remove the cover plate and install the PTK module in its place; should work with all shift kits.

If the trans lever is definetly full back at WOT and it won't kickdown you might want to check for a broken weld where the throttle shaft is welded to the internal cam lever.

Ok, I still need to check the lever at the transmission.

If that checks out, and it is a broken weld, is it hurting anything until I get a chance to fix it? It sounds like I can only check it by taking the trans apart?

Thanks for the help,
-Dave

The weld can be checked by pushing the lever firmly against its front and rear stops, a broken weld will feel soft against the stops.

Awesome

Once I get some time I'll look at it more closely.

Thanks a bunch
-Dave

Well, I found myself under the truck today so I did some looking.

With the KD linkage all the way back at the carb, the lever at the transmission still has 1/2"+ of travel left in it. I can PUSH HARD on it at the carb and take up most of that last 1/2".

I'm guessing that last half inch is where full throttle kickdown would be engaged?

Moving the lever at the transmission against the stops felt pretty firm, so I don't think it's broken inside.

The linkage itself has some slop in it, so I'm sure that doesn't help any Probably time to start looking at cable prices.

-Dave

If you can push hard at the carb lever and move the trans lever near full back the trans is probably OK and the throttle cable needs to be adjusted to get WOT at the carb when the pedal is floored.

Cool. So now my question is; if I adjust it and get full throttle kickdown, but my shift points are off, I'll have to change the length of the lever at the transmission, right?

I haven't checked yet, but going from 2bbl to 4bbl I think the throttle travel is different, which would throw off the shift points, correct?

Thanks for the help
-Dave

If your light throttle shift points are satisfactory, adjusting the throttle cable to attain WOT at the carb won't disturb the shift points because the carb lever will still travel in the same proportion as the TP linkage.

I think you first need to disconnect the kickdown linkage from the carb and see if you are getting full travel on the throttle cable. If you are using the two-barrel cable and bracket on your 4-barrel conversion, you probably aren't.

Have someone inside the car floor the accelerator and see if the carb is opening all the way. If it isn't, adjust the cable. If, after adjusting for full throttle the cable holds the carb partway open when the throttle is off, you need to modify the throttle cable bracket and/or change the cable itself. There should be no tension on the carb from the throttle cable at idle, and the carb should open all the way when the accelerator is floored.

Once you have that straightened out, THEN you can adjust the kickdown linkage. Same deal - the linkage shouldn't push the kickdown lever at idle, but should push it all the way back at full throttle.