yes - all indications are coming from the "valvetrain", spread out 'everywhere' - no single specific location - just 'all of it'. My next step...if I decide to go there...is to pull the valve covers and run it to try again directly on the hardware...

...so this was interesting...- I pulled the timing chain cover back out to put an intact/not-drilled lifter valley plug back in...and in the process discovered that there is no 'kit' for replacing a damaged oil pan gasket if...like me...yer unlucky enough to rip the gasket when removing the timing chain cover. Ripped the oil pan gasket...but there are no kits out there for a replacement 'front edge' of the Magnum oil pan gasket...so I had to get another complete oil pan gasket and cut off the front edge of it so I could complete the timing cover re-seal. Good times...but it worked fine. Also had to take a sharp chisel and 'cut away' the old pan gasket to make way for the new section. Just interesting that no such kit exists for just that situation.

apart -


ripped oil pan gasket -


cleaned up edges -


new gasket ready to go in, and I can say is was real fun getting both the pan gasket lined up with the crank seal while also getting the cover gasket lined up with the block...


Meanwhile I installed a set of Comp #7827 pushrods (6.821 long) which should net about a .040-.050 preload, which should be perfect. I don't expect it to change anything but they won't hurt.

The one piece oil pan gaskets make it easy to install, as long as you keep installing the complete pan gasket.

Sometimes the "improved" edition isn't much of an improvement.

...so the OE Grand Cherokee 6" diameter power steering pump pulley I was using worked fine...but wanted a bit more power from the pump at idle, and let me say finding a 7-rib, small diameter pulley for a GM T-II pump is all but impossible - I don't think anyone makes one - plenty of 6-rib units, but not 7...so naturally I made one. Found a nice all steel 4.8" pulley (Dorman 300-113, for a Nissan I think), and had it machined open to .658", which pressed onto the shaft perfectly. I added the bolt for a bit of extra insurance against the pulley coming off the shaft. I think there's about a 19% increase in shaft speed, which should work nicely -







While I was waiting for the machine work on the pulley I went ahead and fabbed up the beginnings of the rear winch bumper -

Before -


After -






Oh and early Happy B-Day America!!

So, does your belt tensioner have enough movement to cover the now extra length the belt is going to have because of that smaller pulley?

The tensioner on my 318 barely allows the belt to be slipped on to the pulleys when released, but when its under tension, it uses nearly 1/2 of its available movement.I don't picture it accommodating a much smaller pulley on anything.

nope - getting a shorter belt

FWIW, I've been running a 6 rib belt on my Dakota for years and years with no issues.

...yah I thought about that but my OCD said 'nope'... --- besides, as big as the rocks are that I'll be playing in I'll take as much 'grip' on the power steering pulley as possible...

well...with the engine full of coolant and all buttoned up I had it running yesterday......and I am cautiously happy to report that...as far as I can tell...(along with two other friends who were standing next to it with me)...the engine is...quiet...now. The only explanation I can figure is...to my continued astonishment...the newest set of pushrods...and the calculated .050 of lifter preload...has indeed quieted down the engine chatter. I honestly didn't think the new 'rods would result in anything...but it is certainly plausible that the 'rods now placed the lifters right in the proper "sweet spot"...apparently right at/near the .050 preload range. I've had them with .130 and .020 preload...which...apparently...was either too much or too little...but again the engine now indeed sounds 'silent', the only sounds coming from the normal items like the Sniper and fan and such. I'll report back after a few more days of running...but for now I'm just happy the engine is sounding the way I've been wanting it to.

Might have a tiny water pump leak at the pulley seal - time will tell if it's an actual leak or just a 'wake-up' drip, and like before it runs nice and cool. The power steering pump pulley seems to have a very slight 'bobble' to it when running and may have been cored out slightly off kilter...but the steering also seems to be better, and next trail run I'll know for sure if it's enough of a shaft rpm increase to suit the system.