When I bought my 2005 Magnum R/T the head gaskets and one head had just been replaced. Drove for a couple years, no problems. Yes, driven hard. Tuner with the MDS deleted.
Last year I noticed the temp creeping up a bit, coolant level was down a bit. Then I noticed wisps of white smoke, especially when cold. Got worse, now quite a bit of white smoke.
I'll tear it apart and look, but I'm assuming head gasket at the least.
Now my moronical brain is stating to think......
Edelbrock or AFR 185 heads, Comp Cam, new lifters, and of course the head gaskets. Why just replace the head gaskets? Factory heads are known to have crappy seat inserts, and AFR or Edelbrocks are a Perforamce gain, better seats, and new springs. Cam? Stock cam isn't great for performance, and the car has 145,000 miles, the lifters are a touch ticky at idle, if the heads are off I might as well imo, and more power just a nice side note.
Any advice/input??
I've got a Magnum SRT8 as well, but I wouldn't mind my R/T having similar power......

I don't want to slap stock heads on with new head gaskets and have it start spewing white a year or two down the road......

IMO Edelbrock or AFR 185 heads are overkill. The later heads don't have the seat insert issue.
I would just get some used Eagle (09-later) or 6.4 heads and have a shop refurb them.

Stand in the white smoke. If it tastes sweet it's antifreeze, if it tastes bitter, it's oil.

Based on appearance I would say water, based on smell not sure. Smells odd, definitely not a sweet antifreeze smell.

I was thinking of AFR 185 heads and a cam swap, for a little more power and no seat issues. Do the Eagle heads bolt right on to the 2005 5.7 engines? Everything bolts right up? I'll actually look into it, seems like an idea I've never considered. Thanks!

Not a bolt on but not terrible. Thick head gaskets, pushrods, valve covers and intake issues, EGR needs to be removed, etc.
Hmmmmmm

I would just get a whole engine for a few hundred. I bought a 6.4 BGE last year for $500, block ended up being bad. The Gen3 Hemi's are totally fine with 12 to1 on pump gas from what others have said. I don't have a pump gas car so I never tried.
I ran an eagle intake on early heads for a little while. Not optimal but worked

An 09+ Eagle motor with just a cam/tune will out perform the 6.1 car

He wasn't talking about an entire engine swap, just changing the heads and possibly the cam.

Later 5.7's use a different tone ring on the crank, so not a direct bolt in because of the electronics.
They also use the variable runner intake which the cars stock computer doesn't use.
The later engine also has the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) which again the stock computer doesn't use.

I asked AI what was involved, a good use for compiling all the articles online about the swap

Installing 2009+ 5.7L Hemi "Eagle" cylinder heads on a 2005 5.7L Hemi engine is possible but requires several modifications due to differences in design, such as combustion chamber size, valve size, port shapes, and accessory compatibility. Below is a detailed guide on what you need to do to complete this swap successfully, based on available information and technical considerations.
Key Differences Between 2005 and 2009+ 5.7L Hemi Heads
Combustion Chamber Size: 2005 heads have an 85cc chamber, while 2009+ Eagle heads have a smaller 74.7cc chamber, increasing the compression ratio from ~9.6:1 to ~11.9-12:1 if stock pistons and gaskets are used. This may require premium fuel or further engine modifications to avoid detonation.

Valves and Valvetrain: Eagle heads use larger 2.05-inch intake and 1.55-inch exhaust valves (vs. 2.00-inch and 1.55-inch in 2005) and longer valves, requiring different pushrods and valve covers for clearance.

Port Shapes: 2005 heads have rectangular intake ports and round exhaust ports, while Eagle heads have square intake ports and D-shaped exhaust ports, necessitating compatible manifolds.

EGR Provision: 2005 heads may have an EGR port (passenger side), while 2009+ Eagle heads do not, as EGR functionality is handled by Variable Valve Timing (VVT).

Intake Manifold Compatibility: 2005 intake manifolds are not directly compatible with Eagle heads due to port shape differences.

Steps to Install 2009+ Eagle Heads on a 2005 5.7L Hemi
Confirm Compatibility and Gather Parts
Verify the casting numbers of the Eagle heads (typically 53021616DD or similar). Ensure they are in good condition, ideally inspected by a machine shop for flatness, valve seats, and guides.

Source the following parts:
Thicker Head Gasket: Use a 0.075-inch or thicker head gasket to reduce the compression ratio to a manageable ~11.0:1 for pump gas.

Intake Manifold: Use a 2009+ 5.7L Eagle or 6.1L/6.4L intake manifold with square ports to match the Eagle heads. The 2005 manifold will not align properly.

Exhaust Manifolds or Headers: Use D-port exhaust manifolds or headers (e.g., from 2009+ 5.7L or 6.1L/6.4L) to match the D-shaped exhaust ports. Stock 2005 round-port manifolds will cause a port mismatch.

Valve Covers: 2009+ Eagle or 6.1L/6.4L valve covers are needed due to taller rocker supports and longer valves. 2005 valve covers may not provide sufficient clearance.

Pushrods: Eagle heads require longer pushrods (e.g., 6.1L pushrods: ~6.67-inch intake, ~7.90-inch exhaust vs. 2005’s 6.63-inch intake, 7.86-inch exhaust). Verify exact lengths based on your valvetrain setup.

Head Bolts: Use new torque-to-yield (TTY) head bolts or aftermarket head studs, as 2005 bolts are single-use. Follow the 2009+ torque sequence and specs.

Gaskets and Seals: Obtain new valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and valve stem seals compatible with 2009+ heads.

Optional Upgrades: Consider 6.1L or aftermarket valve springs (e.g., Comp Cams 26918CA) for better durability, especially if upgrading the camshaft.

Prepare the Engine Block
Remove the 2005 cylinder heads, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and valve covers per the factory service manual.

Clean the block deck surface with acetone and a clean rag to ensure a smooth sealing surface. Check for warpage with a straight edge and feeler gauge (max 0.003-inch warpage).

Install new dowel pins (two per side) to align the Eagle heads with the block. Lightly tap them in if needed.

Ensure bolt holes in the block are clean and undamaged. Chase threads if necessary.

Inspect and Prepare the Eagle Heads
Have the heads pressure-tested and machined for flatness by a reputable machine shop to avoid issues like loose valve seats, which are common in remanufactured heads.

Verify that valves, guides, and springs are in good condition or upgraded (e.g., 6.1L springs for better durability).

If porting, consider professional CNC porting (e.g., Katech or Frankenstein Engine Dynamics) to maximize flow, though stock Eagle heads already flow well (~331 cfm).

Address EGR (if applicable)
If your 2005 engine has an EGR system (most do, except some early 2003 models), the 2009+ heads lack the EGR provision. You may need to:
Disable the EGR system via a tuner (e.g., HP Tuners) if VVT is not present.

Alternatively, source a non-EGR 2005 head for the passenger side or modify the EGR system to work with an aftermarket solution.

Install the Heads
Place the thicker head gasket on the block, ensuring proper orientation (check for “Front” or bank-specific markings).

Position the Eagle heads on the dowel pins. Install new head bolts or studs, following the 2009+ torque sequence (typically a multi-step process, e.g., 20 ft-lbs, then 90°, then another 90°). Refer to the factory service manual for exact specs.

Install longer pushrods and verify clearance (at least 0.030-inch between pushrods and head).

Install 2009+ valve covers with new gaskets.

Install Intake and Exhaust Manifolds
Install the 2009+ Eagle or 6.1L/6.4L intake manifold with appropriate gaskets. Ensure the throttle body and MAP sensor are compatible (2009+ manifolds may relocate the MAP sensor).

Install D-port exhaust manifolds or headers. Ensure proper alignment with the exhaust system.

Reassemble and Test
Reinstall remaining components (fuel lines, throttle body, air intake, cooling system, etc.) per the factory manual.

Fill the cooling system and check for leaks. Ensure the cooling system (hoses, water pump, thermostat, radiator) is in good condition to prevent overheating, which can void warranties on remanufactured heads.

Connect the battery, start the engine, and check for leaks, misfires, or abnormal noises.

Tune the engine (e.g., using HP Tuners) to account for the higher compression ratio and any EGR/VVT changes.

Optional Performance Considerations
Camshaft Upgrade: The stock 2005 cam may not fully utilize the improved flow of Eagle heads (~331 cfm vs. ~265 cfm for 2005 heads). Consider a performance cam (e.g., Comp Cams or custom grind) to match the heads.

Pistons: To safely manage the higher compression ratio, consider 2009+ pistons with appropriate valve reliefs, though this requires a full engine rebuild.

Tuning: A custom tune is highly recommended to optimize air/fuel ratios and ignition timing for the new compression ratio and head flow characteristics.

Challenges and Considerations
Compression Ratio: The higher compression ratio may cause detonation on 87- or 89-octane fuel. Use 91+ octane or a thicker head gasket to lower it.

Valve Seat Issues: Early Hemi heads (including some remanufactured units) are prone to dropped valve seats, which can damage pistons. Ensure the heads are properly rebuilt with quality components.

Cost vs. Benefit: Upgrading to Eagle heads can yield ~420 hp at the wheels with proper tuning and supporting mods, but the cost of parts (heads, manifold, headers, gaskets, etc.) and labor may approach $2,000-$3,000 if not DIY. Consider whether porting your 2005 heads or using 6.1L heads (which also fit with similar mods) is more cost-effective.

EGR/VVT Complexity: Disabling EGR or adapting to VVT (if present in the heads) requires tuning expertise. Consult a professional tuner if unsure.

Tools and Resources Needed
Factory service manual for 2005 and 2009+ 5.7L Hemi torque specs and procedures.

Basic mechanic’s tools (wrenches, sockets, torque wrench, etc.).

Engine stand or hoist for easier access (optional, as heads can be swapped in-vehicle).

Straight edge and feeler gauge for checking block/head flatness.

HP Tuners or similar for ECM tuning.

Access to a machine shop for head inspection/porting.

Recommendations
If you’re not experienced with engine work, consult a professional mechanic or performance shop to avoid costly mistakes.

Consider 6.1L SRT heads as an alternative, as they also fit the 2005 block with similar modifications, offer good flow (~279 cfm), and may be more cost-effective.

Watch instructional videos (e.g., “Hemi Cylinder Head Install, What Do You NEED To Know? Magnum PI Ep 5” on YouTube) for visual guidance on head installation.

Sources
Moparts Forums, Charger Forums, For E Bodies Only, Summit Racing, DodgeTalk, OnAllCylinders, Hemi Truck Club, and other automotive forums for technical details and user experiences.

YouTube video on Hemi head installation for practical tips.

If you have specific details about your 2005 Hemi (e.g., EGR presence, existing mods, or budget), let me know, and I can tailor the advice further!

I'm quite familiar with what is needed to do all that to an earlier 5.7 Hemi.

The wife's 2006 Charger Daytona 5.7 Hemi (original block) is now a 6.4 Hemi using a stroker kit and a pair of 2014 Eagle heads off a Ram with a custom ground cam with the intake manifold off of a 6.1 Hemi and long tube headers.

It was all designed to use the stock but HP Tuned computer.

The crank tone ring uses a different number of teeth on the later Hemi's and won't work with the earlier computer.
Some people say the tone ring can be swapped but other say it uses a different number of bolts to attach it to the crank..

I've heard that if you use a 2008 computer on the earlier cars you can use the later tone ring, but I have no idea if that is correct.


He was talking a head and cam swap and you are now talking a complete engine change.

Overheating at some point is why the valve seats fall out on the early heads.

Yes but at what point is it not easier to just swap to an Eagle motor. He has 145,000 miles, lifter tick and puffing white smoke. For the cylinder head cost alone he could get a complete motor and then use whatever the other 09+ LX cars did to make it work in the maggy. You also get a 50hp bump

Obviously you're stuck on what you see as the only thing to do in YOUR opinion which is an engine swap that he never asked about.

A set of Eagle or similar heads with a cam will get him more power than he currently has, even more with headers added.

An engine swap to a later engine is definitely going to cost more than a head and cam swap.

As far as an 09+ Eagle 5.7 with a cam and tune the ones that I have seen were only equal to the 6.1 in my 07 300 SRT with just a mild tune which was high 12's.

That doesn't even take into account the better forged internals of a 6.1.


As far as longevity, the 5.7 in my 2004 Ram 2500 made it 300,000 miles before it died, and it ran fine the whole time (till my father in law borrowed it and killed it).