Building a 416 stroker. 10.5:1 Ported aluminum heads, RPM air gap, 870 holley vac.,3:55 gears, MT drag radials 28" tires. Cam is a Howards 711351-08 Dur.....244/248 @.050"-Lift...566-578 108LSA and a 104 C/L. I called Dynamic and gave them the particulars of my build and they recommended a 3800/4000 stahl a few months back. Getting ready to place the order soon. Does that sound right? Was thinking more like 3500 for a street rod. Maybe they were thinking I was racing it. Any and all thoughts appriciated. I will grill them again before purchase. Anyone with experience on this? You think a 3500 is good for the street or even less?

I have a 9.5" PTC converter that goes 3900rpm and drives live a modern mini van while doing street duty.

Take a look at my response in the other section you ask this question on

Do you guys run an additional cooler or not necessary? Was wondering what kind of heat they make being that it will be slipping most of the time.

Cooler: yes.
Whatever you do, don't shop by price, this is a bad place for economy.

It's stall (as in, stops moving). Jerry Stahl doesn't make converters.

PTC builds a nice reasoably priced street converter. With a 3.55 gear you don't want to get to wild. I actually run 5300 PTC with a 4.30 on the street. But that converter with a 3.55 is way to loose.Call them and they will steer you right.
Doug

The best thing to do is gather your camshaft and engine data, rear gears, car weight, and any other details and call some converter companies and have them quote you a custom unit. It doesnt really cost a lot more to get a converter that is built for your exact combo. The converter is so important to the drive-ability and performance of your car, that it makes sense to do it right the first time.

Also, converter technology has come a long way since the 70s and 80's that you can have a converter that launches hard at 5K, but behaves like a stock converter around town.
Yes on the cooler.

Can someone make some recommendations for coolers from personal experience? Was told by my transmission guy that the trannys like to run around the same approx. temp as the engine. Any truth to that. Will be buying a gauge for it as well.

I've had problems with more than one Mopar automatics not getting warm enough on the streets to make the tranny fluid additives work properly
Put a tranny temperature gauge in your car first, install the sender in the front servo housing on the top where the 1/8 NPT pipe plug is after removing and saving that plug
Most ATF fluids need at least 160 F before the additives in them start doing what they are designed for, I've seen 240 F ATF temps on my first CTD Dodge 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive towing my 24 ft. Pace American enclosed car trailer that weighed right at 8600 lbs. towing it in the Mojave desert in the midafternoon in August to go racing in Las Vegas with the outside air temps around 112 F, there is a 17 mile long grade out of Baker ,CA going towards Las Vegas, NV that goes from around 600 ft above sea level at the bottom up to 4400 ft above sea level at the crest, long pull
Most of the older petroleum based ATF, not the new synthetic fluids, fluids have an additive that will start to change colors around 275 F temps from bright red to dark red and then to brown and finally to black at 325 F

WHERE did my post go???? LOL

So this is weird: I responded to the OP's inquiry but lo'and'behold the posting is gone, with what looks like at least a couple more messages???

Here is my ORIGINAL response.

I run a 9.5 ptc that flashes to 3500. It drives perfect on the street. Converters now a days are not the same as loose everywhere converters of yesteryear.

I have 3 converters all done by Ultimate , I have heard PTC is very good as well as ATI .. my two 8 inch converters were originally built by Turbo Action and Ultimate freshened them to my car and engine specs .. IMO you are better off having one built to your cars /engines specs not an " off the shelf " converter . A quick story : about ten years ago I was going to buy an off the shelf converter for the 518 in my D150 p/u , I called Lenny ( former owner of Ultimate ) and he said send me your stock lock up converter .. I did he rebuilt it and I picked up 2 / 10ths in 60 ft.

You probably responded to his other thread with the same question.

LOL...holy crap, you are absolutely right:

"Need a recommended stahl for new converter" vs "Need a recommended stahl rpm for new converter"

Thank you for pointing this out!

Same thing happened to me last week. Posted something and totally disappeared.

Fan-cooled: no.
The fan has a short life.
What you want for position is high pressure on one side (grill?) snd lower on the other. Seal the cooler so air can't just pass around it.