Building a 416 stroker. 10.5:1 Ported aluminum heads, RPM air gap, 870 holley vac.,3:55 gears, MT drag radials 28" tall. Cam is a Howards 711351-08 Dur.....244/248 @.050"-Lift...566-578 108LSA and a 104 C/L. I called Dynamic and gave them the particulars of my build and they recommended a 3800/4000 stahl a few months back. Getting ready to place the order soon. Does that sound right? Was thinking more like 3500 for a street rod. Maybe they were thinking I was racing it. Any and all thoughts appriciated. I will grill them again before purchase. Anyone with experience on this? You think a 3500 is good for the street?

4 thousand area seems high for a street driven car with 3:55 gears and 28" tall tires in my mind anyways. You can always run your info by them one more time, or see what others with similiar cars to yours are running as a comparison. The guys in Race Forum should be able to assist you with this question as well.

Call around and ask other good converter company like ATI,FTI, Turbo Action and Lupo and see what they suggest, make your decision based on what you hear and learn from all of them.
What size did they suggest for your deal?
I had Turbo Action build me a 9.5 inch converter for one of my old BB street and strip race cars and ended up using on the street also later It was great at light part throttle driving on the street and excellent performing at the track

They recommended a 9.5".

That's the same size they recommended for me as well.

Do you guys run an additional cooler or not necessary? Was wondering what kind of heat they make being that it will be slipping most of the time.

I’ve found a 9.5 with a higher stall than I think is common to be the recommendation. It’s always coupled with “we can adjust later for a small fee.”

Ya, not looking to tear it out and redo it again. Getting to old for that crap. lol

I have their 9.5" 4K stall converter in my '80 Diplomat Coupe (3600 lbs).

Here is a bit of an explanation, as that may help you out a little more:

1) 360 motor, Hughes HE3844AL cam (238/244, .571/.576 w/ 1.6 ratio rocker, 108 LSA), 3.91 gearing and then 4.10
- initially had a 2800 stall converter, but that was way too little for that combo
- talked to Dynamic about what I needed, told them this is 95% street car and (at best) 5% track
- they recommended their 9.5" 4K stall, told me not to worry about the low RPM performance of the converter calling it their "tight" design

=> converter arrived, installed it, man what a DAY & NIGHT difference, this was the perfect setup, driving around town is no issue, yes, if you lay into the throttle harder the RPMs will flash but otherwise it is nice

- ran around with the 3.91 gearing for a few seasons but it always felt like something was "holding it back"
- moved to 4.10 gearing: PERFECTION!!! (for that combo, obviously...LOL)


2) 408 stroker, CompCams XR292HR hydraulic roller but on a 112 LSA instead of the 110 that XR292HR has out of the box (240/248, .584/.581 w/ 1.6 ratio rocker, 112 LSA but advanced 4 deg), 4.10 gearing
- the 360 motor was running a Perfomer RPM intake, but the 408 stroker is a W2 build with the Edelbrock 2920 Victor handling the induction chores
- kept the Dynamic 4K converter as-is, was worried a bit about the stall flashing much higher due to the extra displacement of the stroker motor, but decided to chance it thinking that the single plane Victor might bleed off a little low RPM torque, as would the slightly wider LSA on the new roller cam
- yup, the flash stall picked up about 200-300 RPM, but for my use that's not an issue at all


I do run a deep transmission pan and a stacked plate transmission cooler, that seems to be working well.

My advice to you would be: let the converter selection be driven by the camshaft/combo RPM range. Given the 244 dur on the intake with a 108 LSA and your choice of 3.55 gearing I would pick 4K stall at minimum.

When/if you call Dynamic back ask them about their "tight" converters, they'll be able to explain this very well.

A "tight converter" will help drivability.Truthfully anywhere from 3500-4000 should be fine. If you don't have a trans temp gauge to monitor it I would run an auxiliary cooler.Cheap insurance.