So I had this transmission rebuilt by a guy a trusted friend reccommended. The trans shifted fine but the overdrive was slipping.

I got it back and now I won't shift into third.

FIST, SECOND REVERSE no issue.

No concerning noises.

The kickdown is adjusted as specified, I've even tried just unhooking it completely as a test, no luck.

Fluid filled to the spec (like 10 quarts) that the book says for a full fill with new converter.

Can anyone give me anything else to do?

I've read the front band adjustment can possibly cause this.

Any help appreciated.

When it won't go into 3rd, does it stay in 2nd or go neutral?

Most likely a governor problem, only a gauge will tell. Could also be a weak front clutch problem...front clutch is also used in Reverse but at a much higher pressure

Can you explain better not going into 3rd ??? Does it just wind up without making a shift staying in 2nd , or is the engine RPM racing up to limit ?? The way a 727 shifts is in all forward gears the rear clutch is always applied , this is first , 2nd the front band stops the front drum from spinning , 3rd is the front band releasing and the front clutch pack applying , if the front clutch pack doesn't apply the trans is back in 1st, the front band is not going to reapply until the vehicle slows enough for the governor circuit to make the front band reapply ... aka downshift.

I have never heard of the front band adjustment not allowing 3rd to happen , these shifts are hyd. controlled , if the valvebody sends fluid to the front clutch to apply and the band is so tight it's not releasing the vehicle is going to nose over like you stepped on the brakes.

Not necessarily...if there isn't enough governor pressure to move the 2-3 shift valve, it will stay in 2nd indefinitely. The only way it will drop back to 1st is if the 2-3 shift valve does move and releases the band but doesn't apply the clutch. Need to wait for OP's reply to see which it is.



Normally, when slowing to a stop, the trans drops from 3rd directly to 1st without applying the front band. Applying the front band on decel would cause an uncomfortable lurch.

Reason why we need more clarification.

From my own experience with my Ram pickup with a slipping front clutch going back into 1st is what was I figured out was happening , it would shift , rpm drops for a second then right against the rev limiter , let off the throttle and it's back in third.

I didn't realize that it skipped 2nd on the downshift , thanks for the clarification. The shift to 1st on decel happens when you pretty much come to a stop , otherwise you would probably get a lurch ???

It just stays in 2nd. I tested the governor port on jackstands and it read 0 psi at idle. I ran it up to 30mph (it shifted into second) and it read 0 psi the whole time. I even switched out the gauge just to be sure. 0psi. No fluid came out the port either when I plumed it in which I thought was odd.

I tested the governor port on jackstands and it read 0 psi at idle. I ran it up to 30mph (it shifted into second) and it read 0 psi the whole time. I even switched out the gauge just to be sure. 0psi. No fluid came out the port either when I plumed it in which I thought was odd.

A problem I have found when there's shift problems right after overhaul is the e-clips on the governor weight cross shaft will pop off if not seated firmly at the outer end of the groove like the one on the right below...this allows the shaft and valve to fall out of its bore. Another possibility is the governor pressure tubes were installed incorrectly.

Surprised it shifted to 2nd with no readable governor pressure

Which port did you test for gov. pressure.

The governor test port (one above the rear servo test port).

Is there any point in running any other pressure checks? Is there any reason to pull off the pan and attempt anything or am I going to just have to remove the transmission completely?

Thanks BTW for the help. It's very frustrating because I do basically everything else engine rebuilds etc, I've just never gotten into transmissions and I just didn't feel like learning a new skill so I paid "an expert". I called the guy and he was going to do research and call me back but of course, disappeared.

I had the engine out doing the heads and cam and I figured I'd freshen up the trans.

Approach I would take is pull the valve body and check the flat plates that are on the top of the shuttle valve and the plates on the sides that hold the governor valves and shaft valves in. Make sure the screws are tight. While there is a possibility that he misbuilt the valve body I would not take it apart unless you have a good reference doc. like a service manual.

Next would be to pull the overdrive assembly and remove the output and get to the governor assy. and see if there is anything wrong there.

If you built engines all this work is in easy reach for you.

I have the ATSM book. It's, more the size of a magazine but hopefully that's because it's a simple trans.

between the ATSG book, and the books published by Carl Munroe and Tom Hand, plus a FSM, building a 727 should be a very accomplishable project for a person that has normal automotive skills and a reasonable tool selection.
take your time, study the book[s], and remember : "clean, clean, clean, then clean again" the components before reassembly.

Just to be clear, the one on the right is the INcorrect version?

I tested the accumulator port just now and it read 60psi in gear and 0 in park.

I guess I will pull out the valve body tomorrow and if I cant find anything wrong there I am going to remove the overdrive and disassemble to the governor checking the governor tubes and then the governor.

If the cross shaft is in fact the problem, what happens? Are all the weights etc going to be thrown out and in the case somewhere?

No, the one on the right is correct..placing the clip out at the end of the groove reduces the chance of it popping off when hit with the pressurized valve.



Normal, there will be no pressure at the accumulator in P, N, and R.



The weight assembly is held in place by a snap ring but the valve and shaft will sling out and be in the housing...usually the shaft will be bent.

When you pull the VB, air test the governor ports at the rear of the case...if you hear air escaping into the tail, the scenario I mentioned is likely.

If you need a copy of the Ram service manual you can download several different ones from this guy's website:

http://gbcomputer.net/

I have no idea who he is, I found the link years ago. Just go to Support at the bottom, then Manuals, then follow the links to download the one(s) you want. For the issue you're having I'm pretty sure the transmission section of the 94 manual would be fine for whatever year / application your trans is from.

Is there anywhere in the valve body I should be focused? [img]https://ibb.co/JqmH9FM[/img]

Is there any reason I cannot remove the tail shaft housing and fix the governor with the front part of the trans still in the vehicle?

You have to remove the overdrive assy. to get the output shaft out.

Once you have done that remove the overdrive clutch pack then the shaft comes out once you spread the bearing retainer snap ring like in a 727.
There is the overdrive piston that stays in the OD piston retainer and there is also a shim and needle bearing. Don’t drop the bearing, make sure you put it back the way you found it.

Nothing to worry about in the trans while doing this.