Check the pressure of those springs to verify they match the spec for that part number. Just because it says 911 on the box, doesn't guarantee the spring in the box is 911.

As my late machinist used to say, "if it comes out of a box, it's fk'd up".

Kevin

I agree! They're not without their own issues but in today's market it's the thing to do. 10 yrs ago I built a 470" solid flat tappet with Comp stuff. Lost the cam in 800 miles(yes...I did all the break in bs with the correct oil, etc. Not my 1st engine build by any means) I bit the bullet and switched to a solid roller( all Comp stuff) and have been cruising for the last 10 years. It's due for springs but it's a switch I'll never regret.......it runs WAY better with the roller(specs were very similar) and I no longer worry about flat tappet cam syndrome.

I am just trying to build a decent running street car that will never see the track. If you guys have any recommendations on a reliable hydraulic roller setup let me know.
I am going to go ahead and start cleaning out all the metal shavings and order all of the lower end parts I need to get the bottom end assembly process going and research my options for the valve train.
Thanks for all your help.

Why not use the purple shaft with the correct springs.and save yourself 1500 bucks.

You lost the cam due to the springs used.

I think so too.

Not trying to argue, just stating my experience...I've built 3 BB Mopars in the past few years using hyd. flat tappet cams. All using the Comp 911 springs on stock heads w/ 1.88" installed height. All have been fine.
One was an old MP 509/292 cam.
One was a custom nitrided grind from Dwayne Porter.
One was the Summit 6401 cam.

I don't know what the answer is to a lot of these cam and lifter failures. I've seen them fail when everything was done "right".

A street performance hyd. flat tappet should be 100-110 seat 280-290 over the nose.

My last solid flat cam was a Howards nitrided of the shelf cam with EDM lifters. I switched to a smaller solid roller from Isky and sold the flat cam to another member here It is still in use as far as I know in another big block. I only use Gibbs Driven BR series oil.

Gus

back in the day these cars were new, we swapped cams and lifters all the time, never paying too much attention to what lifter went where, or even if the lifters used belonged to the cam being swapped.
never seemed to have any problems with wiped lobes, but maybe the material of the components were better, or we were just "luckier than a cat scratchin' turds"........[as my old man used to say] who knows ?

It's a combination of today's materials being used and today's spec low zinc oils that causes the issues with f.t. cams and lifters. The last several f.t. cams engines that I have built I always break in with the outer springs only. After break in, I add the inner/damper springs. Never any issues thus far. One engine has 54,000 miles on it and another six pack engine in my car has over 65,000 on it. Paying for the extra nitride process on the cam helps also.

GM engineers thoughts on the zinc in the oil thing.

https://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oil_myths.pdf

Interesting read. However there is no date on it so is it possible that GM engineer was covering their butt over the large amount of cam failures in the mid-80's? Wish I had a buck for every cam I put in GM stuff back then.

Synthetic oil that he talks about in there went mainstream in the 90's if you Google it. This article is not new for sure, but I suspect it's past the 80's at least based on content? Also I recall the starburst symbol on the oil bottles being an early to mid 2000's thing? It was around the time when regular oil was said to not be good enough for older cars due to reduced zinc so everyone switched over to Rotella and other diesel oils.

I'm looking into installing the 6401 Summit warranty cam. The cam has .466 intake lift and .488 exhaust lift. I had previously installed the Comp Cam 911 springs that were rated at 373 lbs/in which I think is too high and has been causing my failures. I'm running stock cast iron heads and stock rockers.

Any recommendations on valve springs?

Do you have a cam card? That can be taken to any one of the spring manufactures and they should be able to assist you. They may want an installed height for the springs as well in case they don't have info on what that number is.

Make sure your cam has CMC cast into it. Lifters? I would buy the Hylift ones myself even if they were more money as I think your odds are better with those than some of the others in circulation. Having oem lifters touched up is also a good alternative if you have some stock ones that are in ok shape.

Also on the Hylift site they mentioned not pre-soaking the lifters in oil before using them. They want you to pressurize them dry and let them fill up on their own. I'd do that with the intake off one time thru so you can watch the oil move down the line.

I was looking at these lifters.

vs-430

I wouldn't run a high bleed lifter.

Hughes sells Hylift, and has for many years. Hughes is going to sell you on specific oils to use as well, but since you are not using their cam they may not warranty anything? I know Hylift sells direct too if you wanted to go that route and talk to them on the phone about your issue and concerns as well. If you read the Hylift pdf online they talk about different internal spring rate options for their lifters as well. I have no idea when those stiffer lifter springs apply as far as cam specs, but it is interesting that they offer that when nobody else appears to.