It's been quite a few years since I did one, so possibly they have rewritten them. They use to jump all over the place. Start with the valve body, go to the case cup restrictor, back to the valve body, modify the plate, lets do the check balls, Oops, now let's drill one of the channels, back to scratching you backside, WHERE WERE WE ? Oh yeah set the line pressure, back to drilling.

probably not quite that bad but close LOL

Update! So I got my Trans-Go kit, dropped and split the valve body. Everything looks as expected in the kit instructions and the factory service manual. HOWEVER, while removing the Regulator Valve End Plate, the throttle pressure plug, valve and sleeve came flying out and shot across the work bench. According to Trans-Go and the FSM, there should not be a spring in this port but there clearly was one in there. My FSM is for a 1970 and the trans is a 1978 from a Ram Charger. Should I put the spring back in when reassembling?

i would see what the 78 ramcharger FSM had to say about that spring.
hopefully, JK will chime in on this discovery.
is that a lock up transmission ?

That redesigned pressure regulator configuration was new for '78, yes leave the spring in.

Okay. Got the VB back together and it's ready to install. Last step is to change the accumulator spring and here is the problem. IT'S impossible! I've searched the internet and apparently I have to remove the tailshaft housing in order to pull the pin that holds the rear servo lever. I read one place where a guy had success prying the band and the lever apart and removing the square strut linkage thing to get at the servo but after trying his technique for an hour, I gave up. Can I just leave the trans kit spring out? I'm setting the trans up for street use only.

No need to remove the lever pin, just back the adjuster all the way off and pop the link out. A little tricky getting it back in, be sure the link is properly centered when prying it back in. The heavy spring reduces the lag time on a manual 1-2 upshift but, yes, you could omit that step.

John,
I clamped the lever down as tight as it would go over the servo. I then reached under the lever and grabbed the edge of the band and pried it back tight against drum. This gave me maximum space to remove the strut. I could jiggle it around easily, but I pried under it and used every sort of pick, reach tool, screw driver, magnet, etc. I could find and it just won't come out. I see that the back side of the lever pin is 90% exposed and held in by a little tab of aluminum hanging off the tail housing. Can't I just cut that tab off, drive the lever pin out just enough to free the lever, perform the spring swap, then fashion a z-bracket and mount off the housing bolt to keep the pin in place?

Trust me you don’t want to do this again

Earlier I mentioned the servo pin/shaft o-ring

You went this far , why not finish the job and do it correctly

Loosen and remove those six bolts for tail shaft

Support the transmission up front

Remove the transmission mount

Look at your linkage , and remove what’s necessary

All you have to do is rotate the tail shaft so the pin/shaft will clear the tab - I have never had to remove the tail shaft or had issues with the tail shaft gasket itself

You DO NOT have to remove the tail shaft

REPLACE O-RING

10-4. I'm surprise the gasket will survive. So I don't have to take out the rear shaft snap ring or drive shaft? There is no o-ring in the TF-2 kit. Do you know the size so I can pick one up at NAPA?
Thx.

No on the snap ring
No on the drive shaft
No on the speedometer cable housing

I had to go with my local transmission shop on the o-ring - I couldn’t find it anywhere locally thru jobbers
They had a used double o-ring shaft for me also

Perfection - Not a drop in weeks
Pan is 100% dry and just using a basic cork/rubber gasket with zero rtv or sealant

I ended up supporting the trans in the front, removed the trans mount, linkage, etc. and spun the housing about 5 degrees and got the shaft out as you suggested. Took all of 20 minutes. My shaft has the double 0-rings and they looked in good shape so I just reused them. The servo spring supplied in the TF-2 kit was so stiff that I had to jack off the floor to press the servo in far enough using a socket in order to get the snap ring on. I'm going to install the VB tonight and hopefully I didn't mess anything up and my shift points improve. I'll use the cork gasket suppled in the kit without rtv. I also installed new shaft seals.

Update - So I test drove the car today after installing the TF-2 kit and I'm somewhat disappointed. The WOT 2-3 shift is much improved and occurs about 4500 as apposed to about 3300 but the 1-2 shift is l occurring about 2800 rpms but better than the 2500-2600 rpms I was getting before. Also, the kickdown from 3 to 2 lags and takes about 2-3 seconds to downshift. The 2 to 1 downshift is non existent. I check linkage and throttle lever is all the way back against the stop at WOT. Trans shifts tight with no slippage. Bands adjusted per kit specs. What's next, governor weights? line pressure check? New Trans??

Did you take the governor apart? Did you check the governor seal rings? some governors have a screen to catch debris. Even a low performance governor should shift higher. Unless the throttle pressure linkage isn't correct. I'm asuming you checked the throttle pressure valve and cam along with the shift valves for freedom of movement when you installed the TF 2 kit?
Doug

2 - 1 downshift should be non existent except for a full stop , downshifting into first moving is a good way to take out the rear sprag with no low band applying, so I believe the kit is working as designed.

Did you check to make sure the throttle valve lever weld underneath was not broken ? What are you using for Throttle vale linkage , stock or aftermarket cable ?

Put a gauge on it and do some checks , do you have a shop manual ?

Not wanting to hijack the thread, but am I understanding that with the TF2 Kit and the part throttle kickdown from 3-2, the ability to kickdown from 3-1 at low speed is eliminated?

I haven't touched the governor yet. Linkage is adjusted correct with all factory components installed. Pressure valve was adjusted per TF-2 instructions and valved moves in and out freely.

I did check the weld per your previous post. Linkage is bone stock and correct for this application. I'm not sure what would cause the 2-3 shift to vastly improve after installing kit bit the 1-2 shift is still early at WOT. Coming home from a show yesterday, I was going atbout 30 mph up a hill and punched the throttle. Took almost 3 seconds to kick down into second.

Can't answer that , it's been a long time since I installed one in anything and my play cars are 4 speeds. , but a 3-1 down shift ...