Setting up my heads (Edelbrock RPM) for an aluminum rod 383. On my old 383 906/OEM rods I was spinning 6800-6900 through the lights, so I am thinking with the new combo I will pick up 3-4 mph and be spinning 7200-7300 so I have upped my spring pressure to around 410. It took some time to find the right spring which I now have a set of Comp 929 and 977. My problem now is finding retainers that fit the springs. I have a set of Comp Ti to fit the the 977 spring but they are 7 degree. Just wanted some feedback on running the 7 degree locks, as I have read where some shops do not hesitate to run 7 degree stuff while some claim pull through at anything north of 350. I am 155/410 at .580 net lift

When you are sizing retainers if you can get within .010 for inner and outer is that sufficient or do both really need to be a press fit? The ones I referenced above are .000/+.010 which at this point I am calling good.

Thanks for the help.

Always used 10-degree locks and titanium retainers for an engine like that. No idea if the 7-degree would hold up, I would think the quality of you retainer is the main issue not the degree of the lock. I know even with 10-degree titanium retainers sometimes on fresh up the locks would be sunk a little in the retainer. It is kind of one of those things you just use 10-degree keepers because they tell you to. No experience but a good quality retainer should hold up with 7-degree locks.

I don’t see those in my Comp catalog.

Maybe they’re not Comp-It is the one on the left in the photo.

Ferrea valves highly recommenmds NOT using springs with dampers with Ti retainers as they claim it'll shred them leading to catastrophic engine failure. It might be a good idea to look into this...protect your investment.

I would not personally trust a 7mm in titanium. I thought the whole 10 degree basically was to prevent pull out on Ti.
Especially if used. People forget that titanium's are wear parts and should get replaced.

Just my

That being said I have run aluminum retainers 7 degree with the recommended mopar spring for the.557 cam 30 year ago and never dropped a valve, but probably only put 2-3 hundred runs on them before moving on/up.

So they would probably work fine. At least for a few thousand runs.

All that being said my personal fav is the lightweight h-13's

Take it as internet reading but one of the citied reasons for 10 degree locks was ease of disassembly and having just taken a set of 7 degrees out of these beads I get it. It also states that a 7 degree has more clamping pressure which is why NASCAR use the Super 7 which are apparently 8 degrees. There was one comment that a Super 7 is a 3/8” 7* lock that is adjusted for different valve sizes.

My 10 degree Ti retainers do have a small wear grove around the edge of the first step from the dampner. I do think I am going to prep my springs this time and remove all the edges maybe even on the dampner. I not notice that a 1.500 spring in the Edelbrock spring cups do have a very slight interference fit. I think I want to avoid a situation where it could try and pick up the cup. I think it is just the edge of the spring catching it.

If your Ti retainers show wear then you've been dumping gritty Ti dust in your oil. That stuff accelerates wear throughout the engine. Ok for race but not the best for long duration street use.

Have you dug through the Isky catalog to see if they had compatible parts?

Was on vacation when I started this, so I am home now and wanted to add some pictures.

Here are some pictures of the retainers. Like Dwayne said above they are not Comp and I have not been able to find many possibilities for a 7* 11/32 Ti retainer with the measurements I have 1.375/1.060/.680. I assume they are 7* 11/32 retainers, as when I assembly them on the bare 11/32 valve out of the head they stay in place and the locks look to sit where they need. They are thinner (.075) on the top portion, but otherwise they fit the Comp 977 spring very well.

Here are a few of how the they fit the valve.

run them. my They are probably old Trick Titaniums.

Are you sure they are titanium, and not aluminum. I have a set of old school aluminum retainers that look very similiar, but then don't just about all retainers look similiar...?
Have you checked the engagement by looking at the contact area with some machinist dye?

BTW, Manley makes a 7 degree titanium retainer for their Super 7 locks.

looks good to me
I would run them

That is a great question. Once you start looking at them they do appear to be a lot more scratched and dented than my other Ti retainers so maybe they are. I guess I will see if I can make some sparks tonight or some marks on glass.

I guess I can also put a little dye on them to check the engagement.

Anyone know if the Edelbrock 7* locks that come on the heads are stamped or machined? I was thinking of using the locks that came on the heads unless the census is not too.

They are definately titanium. I look at it every day at work. They are a bit knocked around though. As has been mentioned, I'd not run a dampener spring in them.

Yep, rubbed on the glass tonight and they left a mark so Ti it is.

Can you simply remove a dampner from a spring that came with one or is that a no no?

Thats a no no in my mind, the springs (inner/outer) that have a damper are wound the same direction without a damper they are opposite .
How many dampened springs are out there running on titanium retainers right now? Thousands, maybe millions.

It only takes one dampener wearing through a Ti retainer causing engine part failures from the debris to learn to NOT use any valve springs with dampeners with Ti retainers
Tool steel retainers are my current choice with valve springs with dampeners

As far as 7 degree locks being bad keep in mind many different types of auto racing races (NASCAR, sports car, drag races, desert races and endurance races like the 24 hours at Le Mans and Daytona)were won with 7 degrees valve locks in the past due to that being the only option back then

Most of these engines are only raced at two Mopar events a year. Last about 126 years at that rate.

Thanks for all the help.

Anyone know if the locks that come on the Edelbrock heads are stamped or machined? Just wanted to see if I could use them without much worry.