Still want to see a pic of the crank gear

fastmop,flip phones dont take good pics as you can see the ones i posted

Did you spray around the carb base to check for a vacuum leak there?

8 sec cuda,yes.now its time to attack the carb,carb gurus chime in.thumper wont give me tuning advice and its his carb.so did research on power valves.said if the power valve is too low will run lean.which makes me think somethings wrong with the carb when i put my hand over the primarys and it idles fine,wasnt looking at the headers at that time..so i ordered block off plugs for the power valve also stated in the research by blocking off power vavle will enrich it has 88 jets should i go higher in jet sizes.its a shame all spped shops in st.louis is gone.so theres no where to get block offs at.so in a few day will get them.not sure what jets is in the idle circuts.its a 3 circut that been converted into 2 circut

I find that hard to believe that Thumper won't help. He spent a lot of time on the phone helping me with a carb that he didn't build, several calls in fact. I do have one of his carbs now and he has always helped with it too.

Do you have an AFR meter on it?

Good luck with that! Carbs that have been modified by a tuner can be really tough to sort out since you never know what they did. Sounds like you're flying blind without any diagnostics which makes the job nearly impossible. You really need some data to help solve the problem. EGT, header temps, AFR, etc.

You can adjust idle mixture screws to see if they work. That will at least give you one clue without too much work. If you haven't already you can also adjust timing at idle to see if that does anything. Since this problem is at idle I don't think I'd worry about the power valves too much. Look down the throttle bores while the engine is idling and see what is happening. See if there if fuel being pulled out of the boosters and if so which ones. That should be a four corner idle carb so try all four idle screws.

Do you have anyone who can help? I have a feeling that someone with some race engine knowledge would be a big help.

andy f,ive had race engines all my life.last time i had headers glowing red was in the 70s.dont remember what i did to correct that.im sure hen this is all done ill be a expert at this problem

Plugging the power valve probably won't help; That adds more fuel to the main well. The idle an transitions have down stream restrictions. The easiest try to see if your idle is lean, beyond turning out the mixture screws,is plug or cover the idle bleeds and see what it does.If that stops the red hot headers, then you know its in the idle/transition circuit.

Check that the metering block gaskets are not blocking the idle fuel restrictors.
If 3/16" long set screw is used for IFR, on some blocks, it can be too close to gasket surface.

Make sure when you talk about me that you keep it real and honest and I HAVE tried to help you and the p/v jets etc have ZERO to do with glowing headers....Get it together before you try and throw me under the bus there buddy...

Since you have the timing cover off...put a degree wheel on it and find out where the cam is. Guessing where it is by going off the marks on the timing set isn't gonna do you any favors.
If it's not where it should be, correct it and try again.
If the cam is installed OK, put it back together, then adjust the timing by hand and see what happens.
Do this before you screw w/ the carb.

Sounds like a huge vacuum leak somewhere to have all 8 glowing. Cover the primaries and it still runs = sucking air from somewhere.

If you back the idle speed screw all the way out and it still runs at a normal RPM, something is hung up or leaking.

Ignition timing (Al provided a no cost suggestion, crank in more timing and see if it goes away) is the typical suspect.

Power valve should not even be in play here, unless there is something wrong with the gaskets/blocks used allowing circuits to cross over (rare).

Make sure you don't have a threaded plug missing on the rear of the intake manifold. Seems obvious but check anyways

dont b and rb timing covers have the tab in a diffrent place

No if they are the same year. Mopar has used three different timing covers since the early 1960. 1958 to 1966 or 1967 (CRS) and then change them again in the mid 1970s Thye also change the dampeners with the timing covers in 1966 or 1967 with the dampener change, They move TDC from the top to the middle of the timing tab

i believe the change in the mid 70's timing cover was 74 when [at least] the C-body and truck went to the passenger side inlet on the water pump housing.

thanks,for all the help.just wasted 15k on a engine.no matter what i do.wont run.all tapped out for money and its now a money pit have car for sale on racing junk,here,for abodys only .once again thanks for the help.rather someone buy it and put there own motor in it and enjoy it

Way to give up

Someone is going to buy this for a song and have it fixed in a day.