Are they worth the effort and money?

Looking at weight loss and adjustability.

Otherwise stock suspension save for lighter aftermarket brakes and adjustable shocks.

IMO no, for one thing the pivot ,heim, is not on same plane as lca pivot so as suspension goes up and down it pulls it forward. Street car it’s ok but race car with extreme movement you can’t have the lca moving forward and back. I made my heim pivot out in front part of k-frame mount.

I have them on my car and it really improved the brake feel over the worn rubber biscuits. I have the RMS rods.

Gus

I've had mine for years, they were made by CAP as were the UCA's. The advantage is the Heim joints, with the torsion bars and shocks out, I can move the suspension by hand through it's full travel. There is no binding, it's just one easy and smooth movement, pretty sure this helps with weight transfer. They are adjustable as is the UCA's.

I've installed them for customers. I saw one break on a S/S Challenger. Fortunately it happened in the burnout. Not much advantage vs cost. What would you adjust? Mine are homemade. Cut the stock ends off. Turned them in a lathe untill they fit into .090" moly tubing. That coupled with urethane bushings works very well. And theyre lighter than the aluminum parts. stronger to boot. Back in the day Nascar Mopars used an upper ball joint welded into the K frame. Then a fabbed strut rod was threaded onto the joint stud. Funny racers worry about bushings slowing down travel due to bind. Then spend $1000's of dollars buying shocks to slow travel.
Doug

The strut rods I have are adjustable for length at both ends, the UCA's have Heim joints at the eccentric end so you can dial more camber / castor if needed. IIRC I fitted these 2003 ish.
Just my experience but after fitting them the 60ft times did did improve. Also, I do now, have good shocks on the front (Santhuffs), I am guilty of worrying about bind and did need to slow travel but it was the landing from big wheelies that made me choose them . Last pass 60ft was a 1.29 which I didn't think was too bad with a 3.73 rear gear and we're hoping to improve with a new converter.

I thought of ball joints too but didn’t think they would be strong enough but now I know. I made my tubes after I screwed up the aluminum ones.

A lot of people worry about additional caster. Offset bushings in the uppers gets you a decent amount. Think about it. If you have +2 stationary with chassis rake of of -2. As you go down the track and the car goes level you now have +4. Another important thing to take in to consideration. Adding caster lowers the outer tie rod. Moving the outer tie rod affects bump steer. The 67 Satellite I installed the adjusteable aluminum rods on had toe change after they were installed. From the wheels off the ground to ride height was a 1/2" change. The outer tie rods were to low. Had to shorten the strut rods up to get it down to 1/8" toe change. Thus reducing caster.
Doug

It is an eye opener when you have a race car on the alignment rack and raise it up a few inches and see all the numbers go from green to red. Some cars I get on the rack it's a wonder they can drive them at 120-130 and still control the wheel. I done the alignment a few fast stick cars and I couldn't believe they were driving with one hand on the wheel through the gear changes.

Gus

I installed that type of strut rod on my 64 Polara race car and It handled much better at speed. The other plus was more caster adjustment and very easy to do.

Ha ha ha ha what a great point!