Valve spring pressures and idle RPM can have a lot to do with how soon and how hot the oil temps will get, especially when warming the motors up on a engine dyno

I broke mine in on 20w-50 brad penn but oil pressure was pretty high.

1150 idle, 49psi

2000rpm 70psi

7600rpm 78psi

(I think it was just going through the bypass pretty early)

I've since switched to Royal Purple XPR 5w-30 and will dyno again soon.

Not even close.
Doug

Same here, it takes time for oil temp to warm up. I see mostly between 180-220 temps on the street depending on ambient/engine temp and load and it takes a little while to get it there.

Thing is...I am told the zinc/phos/wear additives are designed to do their thing when the oil is at operating temp.

Or in other words they are pretty much along for the ride till that time.

If your bearing clearances and sizes support it, lighter weight oil is free horsepower.

I have run into issues on OEM stuff where if the journal area is marginal for the load on the bearings, that heavier viscosity oil when at temp is needed to keep the bottom end safe. That's one of the reasons why a bunch of new cars require oils with a wide spread, like 0w40 or 5w50.

I run 15w50 Mobil 1 in my motor because it's cheap at Wal Mart and has enough zinc for flat tappet cams. I'd prefer a 5 or 10w40 for cold starts since mine is mostly a street car, but my wallet prefers the 15w50. lol

Mine only shows oil temp before the run on back to back runs. But it will make it to 150 at the end of just about any run. My clearances are out of the normal range for thicker oils either. With some warm up it'll run its number right off the bat. Very important on mornings without a time trial.
Doug

I warm mine up to 150 before I make a pass. I have a gas primer so I can build heat quickly without wasting alky. Last year double entered running the guts out of it sometimes the oil would get close to 200. I run an engine oil cooler since I have a tall fill.

Perhaps you didn't notice the first word, "joke".
What does "not even close" mean to humor?

Oil temperature tracks load, not water temperature or minutes of operation.

Power: cold water & hot oil.

We find generally an oils viscosity is pretty stable from 215-250. I wouldn't have any issue starting a run at 210 or so *f using ANY type of oil. Synthetics tolerate 40 or so degrees more before critically degrading, conventional oils will coke about 275F

This.

From Stockers to Pro Stock. Fastest way is pre-heat the oil. Come out of the lanes cold. You have to tune for that. We're using gauges to measure down to 60 degrees water temp.

Brackets, .90, dial in consistency - warm it up. Keep the temp swing from first round to the final to a minimum.

10w30 is for bracket cars. Class cars go thinner. Haven't had a quart of 20w50 in my shop for decades. Stopped using dino oil too. Made a difference

Eliminating internal leaks and unnecessary oil flying everywhere except to the crank is part of doing that. Some builders tighten clearances in the bottom end as well.

Better oils than what we had years ago also helps

Nope missed it completely. That response did sound strange coming from you. Must have read it after the bar . On vacation in Key West, lol
Doug

Am I the only one who has an oil pan heater? Roll car out of trailer, plug in heater, wait 30 mins, start car when oil gets to 160.

Joe

Nope. We have cars with heaters on the pan, accusump and trans pan. And I'm gonna put one on the rear when I get a chance.

Cheap ET.

when you say the oils are better today than back then, does that mean the pennzoil 60wt racing oil in the cardboard cans i have is not to be used ?

FWIW in the Vette we run 0 weight oil...Bearings have been in the car for the last 5 years. In my bracket junk we use 5w20

for whatever this is worth, my brother inherited a buick from his mother-in-law years ago when she passed.
he drove it a bunch of miles using 10-30, changed oil and filter religiously, and it ran like a top.
after it topped 130k or so, he figured it was getting a little worn, so he put in the same brand oil he had been using before, but this time, 10-40.
upon fire up, it had lifter noise it never had before. as there was nothing on the dash except an idiot light, he had no idea what the pressure was.
he drove it for a week or two, and it still had the noise.
he dumped the 10-40 and went back to 10-30, and the noise was gone ! lesson learned. he used 10-30 until he wore the car out, and no more noise.

Does anyone run a oil pan surface heater with a diaper???

I just use 10W30 conventional in everything except my Diesel. I use 15W40 Rotella.

I thought about it. I have one. But didn't know how it would do with the padding.
Doug