Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
#3123035
02/20/23 11:12 AM
02/20/23 11:12 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554 Mesa , Az
Jambbii
OP
mopar
|
OP
mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
|
So this is my first body swap 1960 Town Wagon to 95 Ram 2500 chassis. Frame is shortened to correct length but I am wondering what type of isolators I should try and use. I was thinking of just ordering kit for the ram and making them work. A lot of the mounts actually line up but I will have to relocate a few. The town wagon used rubber pad in the cargo area and donuts around the "cab".
I'm possibly over thinking this but any input would be appreciated.
70 Challenger 1960 Town Wagon P Pump 24v cummins project 06 Mega 3500 Drw 2wd 12 Durango R/T 18 Power Wagon 67 A100
|
|
|
Re: Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
[Re: Sniper]
#3123153
02/20/23 08:18 PM
02/20/23 08:18 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,562 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,562
Freeport IL USA
|
The Ram 2500 is a cab and a separate bed on the frame (not counting the front sheet metal that has a mount on each side near the radiator for radiator and font sheet metal support), but the Town Wagon is a 1 piece unit ( not counting the front sheet metal which has a mount on each side near the radiator for support). I suspect the Ram cab has 4 or 6 mounts under the cab (depending on the cab) and 6 (or 8 depending on the bed length) mounting points under the bed, but was the bed bolted directly to the frame without rubber between? (Haven't been under enough newer Rams to notice any rubber between the bed and the frame).
The Town Wagon, since its a one piece unit (not counting the front sheet metal) probably has 6 (or maybe 8) body mounts under the body unit (in addition to the front sheet metal) which will need some sort of rubber between the entire body and the frame. It will also probably have to stay level as it sits on the frame or you could have issues with door open and close fit and window cracking. I would probably use the Ram style cab mounts under as much of the Town Wagon sheet metal as you can and still keep it as level as possible doing that. You may end up adding extra rubber, or steel shims (large diameter washers work) added as pairs (at each side at the same forward or rearward positions) so the wagon body doesn't bind up as the mounting bolts are tightened. If you are using bolts with nuts, I would recommend using nylon lock nuts instead of regular nuts with lock washers. Be sure whatever location you are placing the body mounts on the Town Wagon body's floor pan, that area is reinforced. If it isn't and the rubber is just against the sheet metal floor pan, over a pretty short time, it will crack and start splitting the floor sheet metal.
You are going to do a build thread with pictures of this build for us, aren't you?
|
|
|
Re: Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
[Re: poorboy]
#3124440
02/25/23 09:07 AM
02/25/23 09:07 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554 Mesa , Az
Jambbii
OP
mopar
|
OP
mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
|
The Ram 2500 is a cab and a separate bed on the frame (not counting the front sheet metal that has a mount on each side near the radiator for radiator and font sheet metal support), but the Town Wagon is a 1 piece unit ( not counting the front sheet metal which has a mount on each side near the radiator for support). I suspect the Ram cab has 4 or 6 mounts under the cab (depending on the cab) and 6 (or 8 depending on the bed length) mounting points under the bed, but was the bed bolted directly to the frame without rubber between? (Haven't been under enough newer Rams to notice any rubber between the bed and the frame).
The Town Wagon, since its a one piece unit (not counting the front sheet metal) probably has 6 (or maybe 8) body mounts under the body unit (in addition to the front sheet metal) which will need some sort of rubber between the entire body and the frame. It will also probably have to stay level as it sits on the frame or you could have issues with door open and close fit and window cracking. I would probably use the Ram style cab mounts under as much of the Town Wagon sheet metal as you can and still keep it as level as possible doing that. You may end up adding extra rubber, or steel shims (large diameter washers work) added as pairs (at each side at the same forward or rearward positions) so the wagon body doesn't bind up as the mounting bolts are tightened. If you are using bolts with nuts, I would recommend using nylon lock nuts instead of regular nuts with lock washers. Be sure whatever location you are placing the body mounts on the Town Wagon body's floor pan, that area is reinforced. If it isn't and the rubber is just against the sheet metal floor pan, over a pretty short time, it will crack and start splitting the floor sheet metal.
You are going to do a build thread with pictures of this build for us, aren't you? This is exactly what I was thinking but you said it much better! You are pretty close on the body mount count. I might box the frame in or add a cage to alleviate the flex as much as possible. This to me seems like the best solution for the Frankenstein body mount situation. The frame already has added cross members from its previous life but I will have to add more for the rear 4 link eventually. If I started a build thread it would be the slowest thread in the world and I wouldn't want to torture anyone.
70 Challenger 1960 Town Wagon P Pump 24v cummins project 06 Mega 3500 Drw 2wd 12 Durango R/T 18 Power Wagon 67 A100
|
|
|
Re: Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
[Re: poorboy]
#3126417
03/04/23 12:01 PM
03/04/23 12:01 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554 Mesa , Az
Jambbii
OP
mopar
|
OP
mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
|
1995 2500 single cab long bed (truck in my avatar). I had painted the truck 3 times and the cab was pretty bad (someone is hard on vehicles) so I trashed it. I shortened the frame about two feet or so. I still have the 12 valve cummins out of it. Block is machined but the head was toast because from what I can tell from excessive cylinder pressure was pushing past the cylinder head orings and did all sorts of weird stuff. I have a 24v cylinder head and a built P-Pump still. I still might go genIII hemi with a blower on it but I go back and forth.....
70 Challenger 1960 Town Wagon P Pump 24v cummins project 06 Mega 3500 Drw 2wd 12 Durango R/T 18 Power Wagon 67 A100
|
|
|
Re: Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
[Re: Jambbii]
#3137293
04/12/23 03:54 AM
04/12/23 03:54 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16,479 Canada
CrAzYMoPaRGuY
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16,479
Canada
|
If I started a build thread it would be the slowest thread in the world and I wouldn't want to torture anyone.
I'm sorry, but absolute BEST case scenario and you would come in 2nd place!!!!!
CrAzYMoPaRGuY
|
|
|
Re: Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
[Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY]
#3137294
04/12/23 03:55 AM
04/12/23 03:55 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16,479 Canada
CrAzYMoPaRGuY
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16,479
Canada
|
Love the truck, MORE PICS!!!
CrAzYMoPaRGuY
|
|
|
Re: Body Mounts (Town wagon to Ram 2500)
[Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY]
#3138404
04/16/23 11:29 AM
04/16/23 11:29 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554 Mesa , Az
Jambbii
OP
mopar
|
OP
mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
|
Love the truck, MORE PICS!!! It's currently sleeping outside next to my boat (another project). Hopefully get back to working on it in the next few months.
70 Challenger 1960 Town Wagon P Pump 24v cummins project 06 Mega 3500 Drw 2wd 12 Durango R/T 18 Power Wagon 67 A100
|
|
|
|
|