Well I went to Milodons's website and took a quick look and didn't find any information on why they use a CRAP water pump like a GMB unit. I've probably replaced a couple dozen leaking GMB pumps since they came onto the scene.

Gus

Okay thank you I will check it out.

It's disappointing to hear of QC issues with another company I use to be able to just buy their stuff and forget it. I always bought their water pumps (had early failures on Mopar HD ones of late) and thermostats. Another company like that, non-automotive though, is Sony. I use to be able to buy anything Sony and knew it was the best. Not anymore.

I appreciate the info on tig welding extension and I do have someone that can do that. Once I pull the pan I'm going to know a lot more. I hope to get to it next week and have some answers...finally.

Thanks all.

Larry

Sorry, I didn't read all replys so if this has been touched on already disregard.

Someone on the E-bodies site was having trouble reading the dipstick. He added way more oil than the engine should have needed and the oil was still not registering on the stick. He posted a picture of the dipstick and the metal looked plated. It wasn't chrome but it was a bright plating. I suggested painting the end of the dipstick because I had a feeling the oil was not sticking to it OR the plating was making it very hard to read. After he painted the end of the dipstick, the oil level was easy to see.(he had it way too full by the way) When I read your original post, this is what popped into my mind. You said you used a dye so maybe this isn't the issue but is there a chance the oil is just not sticking to what ever coating they have on the dipstick? Paint the end and see. It might be worth a try.

I was the one posting the picture of their pickup sticking out past the oil pan rail. The windage tray fit very poorly as well and I used their dipstick and wasn't impressed with it either. Definitely tons of quality control issues with their parts. Of course after calling milodon though, they said they've never heard of any issues and that it was something wrong with my engine...... typical corporate response.

years ago, i thought GMB pumps were the good ones ???
"how times have changed......."
as to the dip stick [i have been called that before. ] sometimes drilling a small, 1/16" hole at the add and full marks on the stick helps the oil to stand out more.
be sure to de-burr the stick on both side after drilling the hole, so as to not make the stick "stick" sliding up and down the tube, as well as insuring no metal chips get introduced into the pan.

I've got to check my engine build receipt but I believe Milodon was probably still making quality stuff when it was built. I believe it was around 2014. I barely drive the car 800 miles or so a year. My feeling now is the dipstick is not long enough. It seems to be the proper material and not some funky plating and doesn't feel like it's obstructed. I'm determined now to just pull the oil pan. I've already purchased the gasket set and doesn't appear it's entrapped by anything...fingers crossed I won't have to raise engine.

I went and looked, but didn’t want to be the dummy that couldn’t find it, so I didn’t post anything. I figured this was about private equity involvement, but saw nothing mentioned on their site.

Should I be using an RTV or other sealant with the Milodon oil pan gasket set?

I use a THIN film of Permatex Ultra Black with a good amount in the corners of the seals top and bottom. I prefer it to "squeeze" out a bit when tightened. Wipe off excess while still wet or wait till dry and trim with a SHARP blade

Thank you very much! I will pick some up. Going to pull pan hopefully Monday

for the gaskets, all you need is a small dab of RTV at the four intersecting corners.

I know sometimes less is best but I've not had good experiences sealing small block Mopars especially rear mains. I'll have to see if builder used sealant anywhere but corners. I don't suppose a thin layer around the rest would hurt though.

In a perfect world it shouldn't be needed, but an ounce of prevention - - - ,
I also let the sealer set for 24 hours before use. A lot fewer issues with minor leaks like rear ends.
I had a strange one a few years back, fresh build by a local shop. had a leak midway back on the pan rail. When the pan was dropped the gasket was stuck to both surfaces yet leaked as though there was a void in the middle of the gasket. STRANGE

I use rtv also, but just a heads up those black fiber type gaskets can split with to much torque and the rtv, it acts like a lube. So snug them up with rtv and torque to spec after solidifying.

it was a black fiber gasket from best gasket company I believe

Always want to followup for those who may encounter similar issues. Took me longer than expected to pull pan.

What I found; dipstick indeed too short! Barely passes windage tray and only by maybe half inch if that much. Builder did not use gasket at back of pan, just filled with sealant. Obviously manufacturer defect and uneven surfaces to work with so now I have to trim the gasket to fit surface. Also going to find a longer dipstick

I'm not blaming Muscle Motors who built it because I'm sure they got parts this way and were fighting a schedule. AND otherwise super happy with engine. It runs super strong. Insides were VERY clean.

I just called milodon tech line and told him my problem and I barely finished and he spouted out "you need dipstick 22220". Wow he sure had that part number handy without even thinking twice! If that's the one I need then why in hell did you tell me 22060 before? I just ordered it on Summit for $30

You only need a dipstick long enough to read "full"

Not me I want to know when to add oil, not only when it is full