For the guys that have Alum heads and block, what do you torque the head studs that go from the head down in the valley?

Same torque. But to do that you need the adapter from the Snap-On man. (Or others.) It is 2" long. So if you put the adapter on your torque wrench (and if it's 20" long) you would torque it to 90%. Assuming the adapter is sticking straight out.

Ray Barton says 45lbs and ARP says 55lbs, so I'm trying to get a lot of different points of view.

Tim Banning told me the same thing as Ray Barton told you. I asked why. He said so I won't distort the intake valve seat. Tim said 45 to 50ft. lbs.

ARP said 55, so I decided to split the difference and do 50.

55 Ft. lbs. with a two inch long adapter, I use 180 degrees from the stud to tighten the nut and washer on them, not 90 degrees
i'll try and remember to post a picture of that adapter

I don't have to use adapter cause there is room to get the torque wrench on the nut on my block.

Pictures please

This

That sir is a first,
Which block are you using?
is it a raised cam race block?
I've never had or worked on one of those

It is a off brand block, the name is HP, but it is a POS, it leaks water into the valley, that is what I'm trying to stop. The boss for those studs have crack in them. Now the torque wrench is a non ratcheting click type that came from the Air Force and it doesn't take up much room. Not a race , or raised cam block. He had a good idea, but didn't know what he was doing, so almost every on of these block were junk. Ray Barton and Tim Banning said that they have pulled their hair out trying to make these things work.