'65 Dart build thread
#3116861
01/26/23 09:21 PM
01/26/23 09:21 PM
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Mike@440Source
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This thread could take a while and it has taken a long time just to get to this point for many of the same reasons that affect every enthusiast (work, kids, etc.) I figure that if I post a few pics it'll help keep me motivated.
I was in the market back in 2014 for something fun to build on the cheap with my three boys. I had a pile of Chevy parts in the garage I could have used, but I couldn't find anything that grabbed my attention. I looked at a few Pontiacs as well, but what I found was more project than I needed. Then I thought, "Why not a Dart or Duster, Scamp, etc?", and since I had a Ram 2500 at that time, the decision became a little easier. What was really going on in my head was worrying about being the best father I could be, and making life seem a little bit more "normal", teaching them and spending time with them that I never got with my dad. We lost my wife at the end of 2012 before I got home from Afghanistan, and my dad was nine weeks before her. Sometimes having something to occupy your time acts like a magnet to compensate for loss. There was also plenty of construction happening on the house we had just moved into 6 months before Kris passed, but this isn't a construction page, so...here is the beginning of our story.
Mike
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3116865
01/26/23 09:36 PM
01/26/23 09:36 PM
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gregsdart
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Mike, good luck with it! I will attempt to post pics of my 65s both of them. I still have the orange race 65 The orange car was in Mopar Muscle june 2002 issue, titled NORTHLAND FLYER. The rear axle is moved forward six inches for weight transfer, currently have an aluminum block 550 cube motor making 960 hp. The blue one i built to go to shows with my car show buddies. It got a 504 hp 408 stroker. IMHO the best wat to build these early darts is 904(899) auto behind a 360 , a stroked 318 or a magnum 5.9.
Last edited by gregsdart; 01/26/23 09:42 PM.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: gregsdart]
#3116916
01/27/23 01:48 AM
01/27/23 01:48 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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My new (1965 Dart 270 hardtop) heads up no prep car is under construction and I'm hoping it will look as good as either one of your guys cars when done It is currently certed to 7;50 ET and I'm hoping it will run mid to low 4 in the 1/8 at or above 180 MPH when completed, it is less than halfway done now
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 01/27/23 01:49 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3116948
01/27/23 07:52 AM
01/27/23 07:52 AM
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gregsdart
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Greg, I dig both of them. What are you running for rubber under the orange car?
Mike Biggest i can get under the car is a 33x15x15 Goodyear 2078 stiff sidewall. Those tires have a section wideth of 17.8, and are within 1/2 inch each side. I recomend doing your best to leave a little extra room as they are a beach to get iff the car. I have to deflate the tires and wrestle with them to clear the outer fender.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3116949
01/27/23 08:02 AM
01/27/23 08:02 AM
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gregsdart
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[quote=Mike@440Source]Cutting for the spring relocation kit I purchased from Mancini. This happened a while ago. I boxed in the end of the frame rail and drilled the end of the spring pocket to plug weld it, adding additional shear strength. [/quote Mike, i put my rolacation boxes in as high as possible and still the car sat way too high with mopar ss springs. The top holes for the front spring eye were placed as high as possible also. So a test fit would be a good idea. Rear sliders will help, but i wound up using spacers between the springs and axle tube to get my car to factory hieght.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117018
01/27/23 12:29 PM
01/27/23 12:29 PM
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Mike@440Source
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I chose a Moser 9” for the rear since I already had a set of Wilwoods on the shelf. Shane at Moser Engineering was great to work with. I went with the early Edsel-style round-back center section so it would “kinda” look like a 8 3/4” at a glance, mostly because I didn’t want to hear any grief from the Mopurists. It didn’t cost any extra $ to go with 35 spline axles, so that was an easy choice. Note: still 1 3/8” Mopar offset.
Mike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/27/23 12:35 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117024
01/27/23 12:40 PM
01/27/23 12:40 PM
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Mike@440Source
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I chose Weld Rodlites for the somewhat old-school look, and I thought the oblong holes played off the shape of the tail lights. 295/55-15 Mickeys on 15x10’s, 4.5 backspace IIRC… I did change the studs in the axles to 3"
Mike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/27/23 01:15 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: justinp61]
#3117041
01/27/23 01:14 PM
01/27/23 01:14 PM
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Joined: Dec 2022
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Mike@440Source
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Nice looking little car.
How much tire will fit under the early Darts once mini tubbed? This one has 295/55-15 Mickeys in the back; the axle is 52" flange to flange including the discs. I may be able to cram 315's under it, but it will be tight and didn't want any rubbing. Mike
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117096
01/27/23 03:43 PM
01/27/23 03:43 PM
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Mike@440Source
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I snagged the third member off eBay. It has the Daytona pinion support and 3.25" carrier bearings for the 35 spline axles. I used a Moser 1350 yoke, Strange spool, and a set of 4.30's when I set this up a couple of years ago. This will likely get changed as the new engine will make a trainload of torque. The original build plan included a stroked 318 (390 cubes) which I sold to a friend for his dirt track car.
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/27/23 04:07 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117101
01/27/23 04:10 PM
01/27/23 04:10 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,662 On the parachute mount
n20mstr
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I snagged the third member off eBay. It has the Daytona pinion support and 3.25" carrier bearings for the 35 spline axles. I used a Moser 1350 yoke, Strange spool, and a set of 4.30's when I set this up a couple of years ago. This will likely get changed as the new engine will make a trainload of torque. The original build plan included a stroked 318 (390 cubes) which I sold to a friend for his dirt track car. "trainload of torque" .....i guessing its a big block?? I like these build threads, looks like a solid car
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: n20mstr]
#3117125
01/27/23 05:59 PM
01/27/23 05:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2022
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Mike@440Source
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I snagged the third member off eBay. It has the Daytona pinion support and 3.25" carrier bearings for the 35 spline axles. I used a Moser 1350 yoke, Strange spool, and a set of 4.30's when I set this up a couple of years ago. This will likely get changed as the new engine will make a trainload of torque. The original build plan included a stroked 318 (390 cubes) which I sold to a friend for his dirt track car. "trainload of torque" .....i guessing its a big block?? I like these build threads, looks like a solid car Thank you. Yes, I'm putting together a solid FT 540. Pump gas, drive it anywhere, no worries about lifter link bars and rollers. GM 4L80E behind it. Mike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/27/23 08:36 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117165
01/27/23 09:37 PM
01/27/23 09:37 PM
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Mike@440Source
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I know there are at least a few current and former Chevy guys in here who are familiar with the ZL1 427 that was available in the '69 Camaro as a Central Office Production Order (COPO). If Mopar were to build something similar, what do you guys think it would look like? Indy and Trick Flow heads might look out of place, even if I were to have the ends milled to get rid of the logo. Edelbrocks look closer to the MP head, but they'd have to be ported, adding to the cost.
After a lot of consideration given to what the car was supposed to be in the first place and a few non-negotiables, this is what I'm starting with:
BMP block, 4.500" x 4.250" (540) Lunati solid FT; 259 / 267 @.050", .586 /.606; 110LC; in @106* EDM lifters A set of really cool valve covers 440 Source "Super Stock" aluminum alternator brackets Hughes stainless valley tray CNC Stealth heads, opened to MW. >> If I want/need more power later, this is an easy change. Mod Man w dual 750's (I have the CID to make it work) More money in polished stainless fasteners than I care to admit. It's not a race car. It's a street car, and I like bling.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117347
01/28/23 08:27 PM
01/28/23 08:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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gregsdart
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Mike, what is your plan for a front end, suspension? If i were to ever build another, it probably would be a strut frontend. Maybe a mustang two, but those would be my personal choices. Are you going to leave the motor in the stock position? Any setback will help, but the aluminum block REALLY helps in front/rear weight distribution. With your axle in back staying in stock location, it should still work well on the street. I bought a Dakota lithium 60ah battery, 16.5 lbs. Can be used with a 60 amp alternater. That allowed me to dump the cables to the back and mount it up front. The cables weighed 15 lbs. I am looking forward to seeing your build progress. It will be great! By the way, i think it will probably run hi nines if it is going to use glass body parts and lightening.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: gregsdart]
#3117359
01/28/23 09:15 PM
01/28/23 09:15 PM
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Mike@440Source
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Mike, what is your plan for a front end, suspension? If i were to ever build another, it probably would be a strut frontend. Maybe a mustang two, but those would be my personal choices. Are you going to leave the motor in the stock position? Any setback will help, but the aluminum block REALLY helps in front/rear weight distribution. With your axle in back staying in stock location, it should still work well on the street. I bought a Dakota lithium 60ah battery, 16.5 lbs. Can be used with a 60 amp alternater. That allowed me to dump the cables to the back and mount it up front. The cables weighed 15 lbs. I am looking forward to seeing your build progress. It will be great! By the way, i think it will probably run hi nines if it is going to use glass body parts and lightening. Greg, I’ve considered a couple of different ways of updating the front suspension: Option 1: the HDK setup to get rid of the torsion bars. I really do want to go with rack n pinion steering and delete the steering box as well; that will free up a lot of space without cutting up the car. Option 2: get out my tubing bender and fab my own K frame using the old one as a reference point, and front-mount a rack using HDK single tube lowers and SN-95 Mustang struts with a MM coilover conversion, / bearings/hubs/Wilwood brakes, and caster/camber plates from Maximum Motorsports (durable, easy to find parts) Option 3: Alston a-arm front end (least likely). Engine will most likely stay in the stock location. I’ll see how it scales. The only ‘glass I’m planning for is a AAR scoop grafted into my stock hood, Unless I can sweet-talk VFN into building me a complete hood. Mike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/28/23 09:16 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117524
01/29/23 03:50 PM
01/29/23 03:50 PM
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gregsdart
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Test fitting to see where you can run headers is real important on these early A's. I first put a 440 with 906 heads in a stock 65, but had to butcher the shock towers because the head on the passenger side was way too close for headers or manifolds. I relocated the upper shock mount and built fenderwells, and to get tire turn radius i cut into the firewall behind the front tire and made abox for the four tubes. That made a fine foot rest inside the car😁 it doesn't sound like you want to cut the inner fenders, so i bring all this up so you can check now, before investing in something that won't work with the bigblock.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: gregsdart]
#3117531
01/29/23 04:22 PM
01/29/23 04:22 PM
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Mike@440Source
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“ it doesn't sound like you want to cut the inner fenders…”
Pfft…hold my glass of Merlot🍷 and pass me that cut-off wheel 😂🎉 In all seriousness, I don’t mind doing surgery on the car to make everything fit; I counted on it with this project. But it has to be done right without going full-tilt race car. I have some ideas and I’m getting antsy to get the block/heads in the car to start measuring. Thank you for the input. It is appreciated. A friend of mine did just what you described with the firewall on his early B-body. You can find Kevin’s build on YouTube at Griffits Garage.
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/29/23 04:23 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117541
01/29/23 04:54 PM
01/29/23 04:54 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Cab_Burge
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Hooker headers use to make a set of chassis headers for BB Mopars in the early (1963 to1966 ) A bodies, that being said that makes me believe that my 1965 Dart 270 heads up drag car will get a set of big tube chassis race headers made for it once I mount the motor and trans in it late this year or next year It is a race car, no street driving allowed
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 01/29/23 04:56 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117623
01/29/23 11:46 PM
01/29/23 11:46 PM
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gregsdart
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“ it doesn't sound like you want to cut the inner fenders…”
Pfft…hold my glass of Merlot🍷 and pass me that cut-off wheel 😂🎉 In all seriousness, I don’t mind doing surgery on the car to make everything fit; I counted on it with this project. But it has to be done right without going full-tilt race car. I have some ideas and I’m getting antsy to get the block/heads in the car to start measuring. Thank you for the input. It is appreciated. A friend of mine did just what you described with the firewall on his early B-body. You can find Kevin’s build on YouTube at Griffits Garage. Mike, looking forward to seeing your solutions!
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117835
01/31/23 12:17 AM
01/31/23 12:17 AM
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Joined: Dec 2022
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Mike@440Source
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Making progress here and there when I can. Winter can end any day now and I’d be ok with that…
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/31/23 12:18 AM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117838
01/31/23 12:53 AM
01/31/23 12:53 AM
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Jeremiah
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I know there are at least a few current and former Chevy guys in here who are familiar with the ZL1 427 that was available in the '69 Camaro as a Central Office Production Order (COPO). If Mopar were to build something similar, what do you guys think it would look like? Indy and Trick Flow heads might look out of place, even if I were to have the ends milled to get rid of the logo. Edelbrocks look closer to the MP head, but they'd have to be ported, adding to the cost.
After a lot of consideration given to what the car was supposed to be in the first place and a few non-negotiables, this is what I'm starting with:
BMP block, 4.500" x 4.250" (540) Lunati solid FT; 259 / 267 @.050", .586 /.606; 110LC; in @106* EDM lifters A set of really cool valve covers 440 Source "Super Stock" aluminum alternator brackets Hughes stainless valley tray CNC Stealth heads, opened to MW. >> If I want/need more power later, this is an easy change. Mod Man w dual 750's (I have the CID to make it work) More money in polished stainless fasteners than I care to admit. It's not a race car. It's a street ca r, and I like bling.
Nope...lol not a racer car. I have a few of those too. I also have a set of those bitchin blue anodized DC valve covers. My contention with placing them into service is the lack of a baffle. I had considered many different methods of attaching a baffle and more or less settled on JB Weld. I am curious what your thoughts are there. Also, will you being running this thing on a dyno? It will be interesting to see where it peaks hp/tq wise. With that tiny cam I assume it will peak well below 5500rpm @540" ?
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Jeremiah]
#3117841
01/31/23 02:06 AM
01/31/23 02:06 AM
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gregsdart
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I know there are at least a few current and former Chevy guys in here who are familiar with the ZL1 427 that was available in the '69 Camaro as a Central Office Production Order (COPO). If Mopar were to build something similar, what do you guys think it would look like? Indy and Trick Flow heads might look out of place, even if I were to have the ends milled to get rid of the logo. Edelbrocks look closer to the MP head, but they'd have to be ported, adding to the cost.
After a lot of consideration given to what the car was supposed to be in the first place and a few non-negotiables, this is what I'm starting with:
BMP block, 4.500" x 4.250" (540) Lunati solid FT; 259 / 267 @.050", .586 /.606; 110LC; in @106* EDM lifters A set of really cool valve covers 440 Source "Super Stock" aluminum alternator brackets Hughes stainless valley tray CNC Stealth heads, opened to MW. >> If I want/need more power later, this is an easy change. Mod Man w dual 750's (I have the CID to make it work) More money in polished stainless fasteners than I care to admit. It's not a race car. It's a street ca r, and I like bling.
Nope...lol not a racer car. I have a few of those too. I also have a set of those bitchin blue anodized DC valve covers. My contention with placing them into service is the lack of a baffle. I had considered many different methods of attaching a baffle and more or less settled on JB Weld. I am curious what your thoughts are there. Also, will you being running this thing on a dyno? It will be interesting to see where it peaks hp/tq wise. With that tiny cam I assume it will peak well below 5500rpm @540" ? I am betting on peak torque around 4800, hp about 6400. It will sound knarly, but pull like a frieght train!
Last edited by gregsdart; 01/31/23 02:07 AM.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: gregsdart]
#3117957
01/31/23 05:30 PM
01/31/23 05:30 PM
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Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94 Carson City
Mike@440Source
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I know there are at least a few current and former Chevy guys in here who are familiar with the ZL1 427 that was available in the '69 Camaro as a Central Office Production Order (COPO). If Mopar were to build something similar, what do you guys think it would look like? Indy and Trick Flow heads might look out of place, even if I were to have the ends milled to get rid of the logo. Edelbrocks look closer to the MP head, but they'd have to be ported, adding to the cost.
After a lot of consideration given to what the car was supposed to be in the first place and a few non-negotiables, this is what I'm starting with:
BMP block, 4.500" x 4.250" (540) Lunati solid FT; 259 / 267 @.050", .586 /.606; 110LC; in @106* EDM lifters A set of really cool valve covers 440 Source "Super Stock" aluminum alternator brackets Hughes stainless valley tray CNC Stealth heads, opened to MW. >> If I want/need more power later, this is an easy change. Mod Man w dual 750's (I have the CID to make it work) More money in polished stainless fasteners than I care to admit. It's not a race car. It's a street ca r, and I like bling.
Nope...lol not a racer car. I have a few of those too. I also have a set of those bitchin blue anodized DC valve covers. My contention with placing them into service is the lack of a baffle. I had considered many different methods of attaching a baffle and more or less settled on JB Weld. I am curious what your thoughts are there. Also, will you being running this thing on a dyno? It will be interesting to see where it peaks hp/tq wise. With that tiny cam I assume it will peak well below 5500rpm @540" ? I am betting on peak torque around 4800, hp about 6400. It will sound knarly, but pull like a frieght train! I am planning on a dyno session, but it will be a while before this thing is put together. Meanwhile, I'll attempt to make some progress on the car itself. The cam is listed on Lunati's website with a power range of 3000-7200 based on a 440. I think Greg is pretty close on the performance in the bigger engine. Something that is fun from 2500-6500ish is what I'm after. This profile was picked because I didn't want to run more than .600" lift, and I felt the duration was about where it needed to be for how it would be used 90% of the time. That the lobe design was spec'd by UDHarold is a bonus. https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-solid-flat-tappet-cam-chrysler-361-440-288-296.htmlMike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/31/23 05:33 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Frackster]
#3117962
01/31/23 05:59 PM
01/31/23 05:59 PM
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Mike@440Source
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Awesome car, who makes a reasonably priced mopar to 4l80e bellhousing? Thank you. I think ATI has an adapter for the bellhousing, but all I need is the adapter/spacer for the crank and the correct flexplate. My BMP block has a dual bellhousing pattern (GM/Chrysler) so the 4L80E will bolt right up. All I have to do is get lucky and find one at Pick n Pull or Craigslist. Mike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 01/31/23 06:00 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3117976
01/31/23 07:32 PM
01/31/23 07:32 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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Bend,OR USA
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[quote=gregsdart][quote=Jeremiah][quote=Mike@440Source]I I am planning on a dyno session, but it will be a while before this thing is put together. Meanwhile, I'll attempt to make some progress on the car itself. The cam is listed on Lunati's website with a power range of 3000-7200 based on a 440. I think Greg is pretty close on the performance in the bigger engine. Something that is fun from 2500-6500ish is what I'm after. This profile was picked because I didn't want to run more than .600" lift, and I felt the duration was about where it needed to be for how it would be used 90% of the time. That the lobe design was spec'd by UDHarold is a bonus. https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-solid-flat-tappet-cam-chrysler-361-440-288-296.html Mike Mopar wedge heads like to flow more CFMs the wider and higher the valve is open, lift is your friend Maybe think about changing that cam for one that has more lift and duration at .100,.200 as well as more lift at max lift than this one has
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3118069
02/01/23 10:21 AM
02/01/23 10:21 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,091 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,091
Rogue River, OR
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I know there are at least a few current and former Chevy guys in here who are familiar with the ZL1 427 that was available in the '69 Camaro as a Central Office Production Order (COPO). If Mopar were to build something similar, what do you guys think it would look like? Indy and Trick Flow heads might look out of place, even if I were to have the ends milled to get rid of the logo. Edelbrocks look closer to the MP head, but they'd have to be ported, adding to the cost.
After a lot of consideration given to what the car was supposed to be in the first place and a few non-negotiables, this is what I'm starting with:
BMP block, 4.500" x 4.250" (540) Lunati solid FT; 259 / 267 @.050", .586 /.606; 110LC; in @106* EDM lifters A set of really cool valve covers 440 Source "Super Stock" aluminum alternator brackets Hughes stainless valley tray CNC Stealth heads, opened to MW. >> If I want/need more power later, this is an easy change. Mod Man w dual 750's (I have the CID to make it work) More money in polished stainless fasteners than I care to admit. It's not a race car. It's a street ca r, and I like bling.
Nope...lol not a racer car. I have a few of those too. I also have a set of those bitchin blue anodized DC valve covers. My contention with placing them into service is the lack of a baffle. I had considered many different methods of attaching a baffle and more or less settled on JB Weld. I am curious what your thoughts are there. Also, will you being running this thing on a dyno? It will be interesting to see where it peaks hp/tq wise. With that tiny cam I assume it will peak well below 5500rpm @540" ? I am betting on peak torque around 4800, hp about 6400. It will sound knarly, but pull like a frieght train! I am planning on a dyno session, but it will be a while before this thing is put together. Meanwhile, I'll attempt to make some progress on the car itself. The cam is listed on Lunati's website with a power range of 3000-7200 based on a 440. I think Greg is pretty close on the performance in the bigger engine. Something that is fun from 2500-6500ish is what I'm after. This profile was picked because I didn't want to run more than .600" lift, and I felt the duration was about where it needed to be for how it would be used 90% of the time. That the lobe design was spec'd by UDHarold is a bonus. https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-solid-flat-tappet-cam-chrysler-361-440-288-296.htmlMike I will bet you a dollar it peaks below 6000. Why are we staying under .600 lift? Not bashing just curious : D Will you be using the PRW PqX roller rockers?
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Jeremiah]
#3118255
02/02/23 10:41 AM
02/02/23 10:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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One thing is for sure. You won't need a loose converter for that 540. Something very similar to a stock hemi/383/340 torque converter, but built to take the torque, will flash well over 3000 and drive like a stocker, making it a very fun, responsive hotrod! I used a stock hemi converter(while it lasted!) behind a 535 with ported 906 heads back in 1981. If i recall correctly, it stalled about 3400 or more.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: mopowers]
#3118484
02/03/23 01:46 AM
02/03/23 01:46 AM
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Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94 Carson City
Mike@440Source
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94
Carson City
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Awesome progress! I'm building a a similar big block '66, so I'll be watching this closely. Question - what made you go with 1/2" aluminum fuel line over say, -10 ptfe? I just prefer to run hard line wherever I can. Hose will eventually deteriorate, so I don't want to run that for the whole length of the car, unless it's a race-only deal. I’m using billet clamps to attach it to the sub rails. Mike
Last edited by Mike@440Source; 02/03/23 03:32 PM.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: moparx]
#3118640
02/03/23 03:40 PM
02/03/23 03:40 PM
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Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94 Carson City
Mike@440Source
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94
Carson City
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Good morning Bob, No offense taken 10 microns on this one. It will flow fine for a carb'd application; I'll go bigger on the size if I decide to convert to EFI later. Mike
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3118662
02/03/23 04:40 PM
02/03/23 04:40 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,239 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,239
north of coder
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from the tank, isn't it 100 micron size ? also, what size is the factory sock in the tank on the pickup meant to filter ? i'm not sure i have ever heard the micron size that filter was.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3118744
02/03/23 10:43 PM
02/03/23 10:43 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,091 Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,091
Rogue River, OR
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RE: PRW PqX roller rockers Did you mean the stainless steel version or the billet aluminum? I'm leaning toward stainless steel. either Comp 1621's or the PRW's; I did have the opportunity to check out the PRW's closely (nitpicking), a couple of days ago and I don't see anything wrong with the way the rockers are machined for the screws, compared to previous feedback on other forums. If there was a quality control issue previously, it must have been fixed. Roller tips weren't sloppy loose, bushings looked good, etc. I'd use the Stanke Motorsports shafts with the banana grooves for better oiling, but that's a personal preference. I haven't seen a failure; only what I've read.
Mike I like the steel rockers with bushings. You will be okay with the PRWs with the flat tappet spring pressures. I think they are rated to 600psi? If you were to go roller or hydraulic roller in the future perhaps the Comps would be better for 550psi+ valve springs. I like the coating comp uses on thier rocker shafts also. My only complaint on both rocker systems is the lack of threaded rocker shafts. Using a NPT plug in the end of the rocker shaft is a really nice feature. We used lash caps to correct the geometry on my Stealth heads and Comp steel rockers because cam is a .660ish solid (street) roller. It is about 230/560psi closed/open. I like the steel rockers in general because they fit under the old school valve covers.
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Jeremiah]
#3118784
02/04/23 01:09 AM
02/04/23 01:09 AM
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Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94 Carson City
Mike@440Source
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94
Carson City
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RE: PRW PqX roller rockers Did you mean the stainless steel version or the billet aluminum? I'm leaning toward stainless steel. either Comp 1621's or the PRW's; I did have the opportunity to check out the PRW's closely (nitpicking), a couple of days ago and I don't see anything wrong with the way the rockers are machined for the screws, compared to previous feedback on other forums. If there was a quality control issue previously, it must have been fixed. Roller tips weren't sloppy loose, bushings looked good, etc. I'd use the Stanke Motorsports shafts with the banana grooves for better oiling, but that's a personal preference. I haven't seen a failure; only what I've read.
Mike I like the steel rockers with bushings. You will be okay with the PRWs with the flat tappet spring pressures. I think they are rated to 600psi? If you were to go roller or hydraulic roller in the future perhaps the Comps would be better for 550psi+ valve springs. I like the coating comp uses on thier rocker shafts also. My only complaint on both rocker systems is the lack of threaded rocker shafts. Using a NPT plug in the end of the rocker shaft is a really nice feature. We used lash caps to correct the geometry on my Stealth heads and Comp steel rockers because cam is a .660ish solid (street) roller. It is about 230/560psi closed/open. I like the steel rockers in general because they fit under the old school valve covers. Jeremiah, have you seen these? I got to check out these shafts last year at Indy. The plugs are o-ringed and held in by the end bolts. https://stankemotorsports.com/Products.cfm?pn=440RS&pID=55
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3118791
02/04/23 04:12 AM
02/04/23 04:12 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
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Contact Rocker Arm Speciality 530-242-1306 and see if they still offer those. They have been sold several times and may not be in business anymore and or changed their name, They were in northern California near Redding the last time I dealt with them
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3119707
02/07/23 06:20 PM
02/07/23 06:20 PM
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Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94 Carson City
Mike@440Source
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 94
Carson City
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Contact Rocker Arm Speciality 530-242-1306 and see if they still offer those. They have been sold several times and may not be in business anymore and or changed their name, They were in northern California near Redding the last time I dealt with them Now called Rocker Arms Unlimited (530) 242-1316 rockerarms.com Mike
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Re: '65 Dart build thread
[Re: Mike@440Source]
#3122525
02/18/23 01:27 PM
02/18/23 01:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,304 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,304
Las Vegas
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Man I wish I knew you were going to run that wheel..Would have made you a sweet deal on the ones I have here.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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