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RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s #3114743
01/20/23 08:17 AM
01/20/23 08:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 246
Cent, OH
Mopar.70 Offline OP
enthusiast
Mopar.70  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 246
Cent, OH
Probably has been talked about before on here, I did search and was unable to find exactly what I'm trying to figure out. So here goes:

#1 - What would be the min clearance between crank balance weights/bellows/throws whatever you want to call them and the girdle? My smallest gap is still slightly over .030. Seems the best fit I get is when I have the studs in for the oil pan and move the girdle in the clearance holes of the studs all the way to the front of the block. Anyone use shim stock when torquing the nuts to prevent it from shifting?

#2 - Just how flat and what kind of fit do you really need with the shim packs under the plate on the studs? I have it where I measure it out to be. I laid the girdle on, put the nuts on and just hand snugged them. Went around the girdle between the oil pan rail and girdle and only 2 spots could i get a .0015 feeler gauge in. But the shims seemed to only have a slight bit of resistance, I could still spin them. I'm sure there is some non-flatness in the plate along with the pan rail so I thought this was pretty good. But, I'll be putting silicone at this joint. So how critical is it?

This is my first motor with a girdle, I'm wanting to be sure I do it right. If I were to do it wrong (shimming) is it going to induce unwanted stress?

Last edited by Mopar.70; 01/20/23 08:18 AM.
Re: RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s [Re: Mopar.70] #3114901
01/20/23 03:32 PM
01/20/23 03:32 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,380
north of coder
moparx Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"
moparx  Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,380
north of coder
in my machinist career, as well as today, when i want something to stay in place and not shift when tightening, i use a couple of small dowels or split pins.
this will require a good pre-fitment, then precisely drilling the holes through both pieces at once for the dowels or split pins.
when doing so, it is best to drill the hole[s] undersize by .015, then ream to the correct size needed for the pins. this insures the hole is round, and the pins fit correctly as designed.
i believe this method will work for you to insure the girdle stays where you want it.
as to your clearance issues, i would feel more comfortable with around .060, but that's just me.
beer

Re: RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s [Re: moparx] #3114993
01/20/23 09:42 PM
01/20/23 09:42 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Chargerfan68 Offline
pro stock
Chargerfan68  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,264
New York, USA
Originally Posted by moparx
in my machinist career, as well as today, when i want something to stay in place and not shift when tightening, i use a couple of small dowels or split pins.
this will require a good pre-fitment, then precisely drilling the holes through both pieces at once for the dowels or split pins.
when doing so, it is best to drill the hole[s] undersize by .015, then ream to the correct size needed for the pins. this insures the hole is round, and the pins fit correctly as designed.
i believe this method will work for you to insure the girdle stays where you want it.
as to your clearance issues, i would feel more comfortable with around .060, but that's just me.
beer


I do exactly as moparx does with dowels. I locked the girdle and windage tray in place using 2 diagonally opposing dowels….pretty tight fit.

BCCF7859-38F9-44D2-B0E2-F0CEA7261468.jpeg

1.50 60Ft. , 10.75@ 127MPH Hauling 3900 LBS.
Re: RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s [Re: Chargerfan68] #3115236
01/21/23 08:11 PM
01/21/23 08:11 PM
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 173
California
G
GTXMEX Offline
member
GTXMEX  Offline
member
G

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 173
California
Who made the girdle you went with? What kind of main caps did you go with?

I've been waiting for almost a year for Moroso's and need a different alternative. It's the only parts I'm waiting on.


Thanks!




Last edited by GTXMEX; 01/21/23 08:51 PM.
Re: RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s [Re: GTXMEX] #3115286
01/21/23 11:06 PM
01/21/23 11:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 246
Cent, OH
Mopar.70 Offline OP
enthusiast
Mopar.70  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 246
Cent, OH
Stock caps and a 440 Source girdle, I bought it some time ago, motor has been in the shop a while too. Just now back and being put together. I like the idea of dowels above but since the crank, rods and pistons are in I feel like if .030+ isn't enough clearance. . .then opening up the girdle is the best option.

Re: RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s [Re: Mopar.70] #3115290
01/21/23 11:21 PM
01/21/23 11:21 PM
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 173
California
G
GTXMEX Offline
member
GTXMEX  Offline
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G

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 173
California
Thanks!

Re: RB Main Stud Girdle ?'s [Re: Chargerfan68] #3115610
01/23/23 10:21 AM
01/23/23 10:21 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,988
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
I Win
JohnRR  Offline
I Win

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,988
U.S.S.A.
Originally Posted by Chargerfan68
Originally Posted by moparx
in my machinist career, as well as today, when i want something to stay in place and not shift when tightening, i use a couple of small dowels or split pins.
this will require a good pre-fitment, then precisely drilling the holes through both pieces at once for the dowels or split pins.
when doing so, it is best to drill the hole[s] undersize by .015, then ream to the correct size needed for the pins. this insures the hole is round, and the pins fit correctly as designed.
i believe this method will work for you to insure the girdle stays where you want it.
as to your clearance issues, i would feel more comfortable with around .060, but that's just me.
beer


I do exactly as moparx does with dowels. I locked the girdle and windage tray in place using 2 diagonally opposing dowels….pretty tight fit.


Who makes that crank scraper ?


running up my post count some more .






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