1.27 60.....
whats the rest of the time slip???

Pull the engine and get it on the dyno. With your headers, your carb, your ignition.

You are blaming the engine and you don’t have a clue how much power you really have.

You’ll get a much better converter if you give them actual power numbers.

If you think about it, the time and money you have spent so far would have paid for a day or two on a dyno.

There is a reason that all serious engine builders have a dyno or access to a dyno. They ain’t stupid.

Of course, if you have been on the dyno and jus didn’t post the numbers then all this ^^^ doesn’t matter. I’m sure I speak for many here that we’d love to see the numbers if it went across the pump already.

easy tony lol

Tried 34 and 35 degrees timing, car lost a. Tenth both ways.
Ran a shift loop at 7200, 7400,7600 and 7800.ET was close from 7400 to 7800 but mph was higher at 7800

Love those big inch small blocks !!!! there are some bad [censored] small block owners on here chiming in ! .... I agree .. get it on a dyno.

normally all my small blocks like timing

36 degrees seems to be sweet spot for this engine/car combo

See it all the time, too small of a carb is a major choke point for starters......

I too agree with the dyno, even if it's just a chassis dyno. When I built my 434 the dyno day cost me $450, and it was the best money spent on the entire build. Plus, I made new friends and had a great time.

I know very little about the newer SBM stuff....But all my small blocks, and even big blocks like timing. A lot more than you're running.

My other thought is, with the winters here so long, maybe we book a dyno day at Jan-Cen again, and flog it.....Been actually thinking of calling Mike over there myself and book a day with my Hemi....

I believe it was Brett that told me that the more efficient the combustion chamber is the less timing they need. I may be remembering wrong though. LOL

Have you talked to some W9 guys about the timing? The W9 combustion chamber might need different timing than what you expect. Not a lot of people with those heads so talk to right folks.

An engine dyno session would be informative but not really required. Lots of guys go down the track fast without having their engines on the dyno. If you can find a good chassis guy in your area it might make your journey shorter. It is easy to get lost when you're trying to sort out axle ratio, stall speed, air pressure, shock adjustments, chassis adjustments, etc. Sometimes just having an expert watch the launch is all you need to get going in the correct direction.

As ValiantRich said I would get it out and on the dyno. Something is way off, the car cannot get out of its own way down low for sure. 60/330 numbers are anemic at best for that combo. Te dyno will at least let you know what it makes and what it wants for gearing and converter for starters.

When I went from the 408 to the 434 my car picked up I'd guess about 100 hp and almost 6 mph in the 1/8, 104.34 to 110.1. The OP's car should be around 112-113?

Curious why only 13.25:1?

The intake w/ adapter could be chocking it some. Compare your intake with one Brett Miller modified. I agree with others. It needs more stall ! A chassis dyno could help. I'd love to see flow numbers too. Not a big fan of the leaf link . Are all cylinders healthy ?

Grudge car

13.25:1 compression because we bought NOS NASCAR pistons from Kent Ritter off the shelf when we bought the block and heads then had to flycut them for P/V clearance.
Tilburg CNC ported the heads but didn't flow them and the local machine shop's flow bench was down when we were building the engine.