Been looking at trucks recently and thinking maybe about an older Ram. I've had my run with a 4.7L for 15 years and somewhat know them. I like the styling of the 94-01 Ram trucks slightly better over the later trucks. I would using this truck to mainly make trips to town with highway driving mixed in and haul a little lumber. I've found some lower mileage (105,000 and under) trucks a 98 and 00 for example. I've found also a couple of older 94-95 trucks but with more miles. My understanding is that maybe the 46RH might be slightly better than the 46RE? I've read 1995 was the last year for the 46RH. I'm just wondering if the 46RH vs the 46RE would be preferred. I believe that being 1994-1995 puts me in OBD 1 territory as well.

I'm looking for some advice. I've also found some lower mileage Dakotas as well but, mainly in the 1997-2004 generation. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I can offer some info regarding a 90-96 Dakota, I've had a few.

Up front, I'm not so sure there was much difference between the RH and the RE transmissions, as far as durability is concerned. It really comes down to how well earlier owners took care of the truck, or even more importantly, how badly they may have abused the truck. The answer is not a cover all deal at all (this model year truck is better then that model year is BS).

For what you are describing as the way your going to use your future truck, previous ownership is going to have much more effect on the transmission service life then weather the OD is hydraulic shifted or electronically shifted.

The next biggest deal concerning the transmission life, is if the antiflow back valve in the cooler line is, or has been cleaned or removed. That little ball moving back and forth in the line has a real problem moving if the fluid gets a bit dirty. When it no longer moves freely, it will kill a trans pretty quickly because it can shut off the fluid flow through the cooler. If the valve has been removed from the cooler line, then the fluid can drain back into the trans pan. If the last owner started the truck, put it in gear, and expected to move instantly, the fluid may not have refilled the empty lines and will starve the trans of fluid flow for a few seconds, causing premature wear. The Mopar auto trans does not pump fluid while in the park position (I believe the newer ones have solved that issue, but I don't remember when that started).

As a matter of practice, I always put my Mopar automatic transmissions in neutral for a count of 30 before I put in either drive or reverse, to give the trans time to fill up anything that might drained the fluid back into the pan. That sure has helped extend the transmission service life.

My 95 and my 96 Dakotas were both OBD2, but the 93 was OBD1, I'm not sure when the change over took place, but I believe the full size trucks were OBD 2 before the Dakotas were.

When you buy a used truck, buy the truck as an individual truck (this truck compared to that truck), not as a generic age group (there are good and bad in every age group).

Also, be sure you inspect the frame for rust! Take a hammer with you and smack the frame in any place that might look questionable. If it dents easily, or the hammer blows through, the frame needs to be patched. if it has holes that are not suppose to be there, they need to be patched. If it has any cracks, they need to be welded. Get a price on any frame repair before you buy the truck, some simply CAN NOT be repaired!

One more thing, very low mileage trucks mean they have spent a lot of time sitting (2,000 or 3,000 miles a year is a yellow flag). For a truck to sit for long periods of time is usually not good for them, if you start using them a lot, a lot of stuff might need to be repaired. Often low mileage trucks see a lot less maintenance because they don't see many miles very fast and most people base maintenance on mileage only.

sonnax makes a lot of things to improve the 46re including this.


Couldn't agree more that's why i have two of them! I would look for a 96 and up, Nothing wrong with the earlier ones but they are OBD1 and 46rh. I had a 90 that had the A500(same as the 46rh) and liked the shifting of the RE better. If you go to check out a few of them look for rust at the bottom of the doors(common problem). Also look at the frame and anything also that might be compromised with rust. The rear brake line next to the gas tank rust out and burst so check out the brake lines. You won't sorry i had my 96 for 20 years as a daily driver. Here are mine both 96's Indy ram and the black one is my DD 2500 4X4.

[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/alb...?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds[/img]
[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/alb...?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds[/img]

Thank you. I've also read that updating the shift solenoid and speed sensor helps as well. I like the 1997-2004 Dakota as well. I've had a couple of them in past (two 4.7 trucks) but, I didn't have them long. At this point, I'll be seeking the Western States as I live in the Rust Belt. Some of the lower mileage truck I've seen recently, haven't addressed the plenum gasket issue on the Magnum based engines. Thank you again and nice trucks.

My 01 went to Michigan about a year ago….. rust free 200k mile AZ pickup. I still see some nice 2nd gens here and there. I put an LMC dash in it about 4 years ago. Probably the biggest issue on that era. Had close to 16 hours in it with all the structural repairs I had to do as the framework is also all plastic and not available anymore. I kind of miss it….. but the 3500 we replaced it with is soooo nice.

.

I've seen a few with that p601 code that doesn't seem to effect anything, trucks still run and drive as expected.
One that comes in occasionally, that code seems intermittent on, the other comes back as soon as s is cleared, every time

.

P0601 PCM Internal Controller Failure
Use this as a bargaining tool! At least it is telling you what the problem is. You can usually get a used PCM for under/around $200. The later trucks you need to get them programed.

.

Can you point me in the direction of the harness corrosion issues so I can research it? My 04 Dakota is driving me nuts going into limp mode with transmission codes. Trans is getting rebuilt, but I want to eliminate all problems since it's a nice little truck that I need to be able to depend on with road trips.

Not sure if this is applicable to Dakotas but, here's the notes regarding the 2nd Generation Ram trucks via these attached pictures.

Lol, design flaw. Splices like that have been used for two forevers and can be found all around the wiring harness.

True but, some of us are still learning the ropes. If works, it works.

Thanks RustyMopar01. That was a tremendous help and I will check it out.

Put me on the thank you list for the transmission wiring deal. The OD on the RE46 in my 49 pickup (with a 96 Dakota chassis & wiring) quit functioning, and the code reader says it isn't getting input. I now know where to look, if I can get my hands into the area. Things are pretty congested on this truck.

over the years, i have uncovered untold issues related to wiring that is located under, or close to, the battery.
i blame this on the battery out-gassing, and the fumes over time eating the harness and nearby connections.
the more the harness is stuffed near the battery, the more problems found.
as the battery ages, the more out-gassing occurs. daily drivers are more prone to this, as nothing is really looked at until a problem or failure pops up.

All good info to know as I plan for my 56 C3 build on my 2001 Dak chassis. I'll be shopping for a used auto tranns and I am pretty settled on the 545RFE or 65RFE. Hopefully Mopar has addressed the issues listed aboive as I've not had a Mopar product with an auto trans since the 99 Dakota I sold back in 2003. On my 56 I may plan to locate the battery somewhere other than under the hood, or not even in the original battery box under the cab. Maybe in a chassis mounted marine battyer box on the PS under the bed.

Well, if its a battery issue with the wiring, once I get it cleared up, I should be good. The battery is now in the front corner of the bed. This wiring harness had only 44,000 miles on it between 96 and 2021. The truck was primarily used as a winter ride, and I suspect it sat most summers given the fact the frame was rotted out and there was a Harley sticker on the back window.