This is funny and bad unproven info right here...

If you are going to be driving on the street with an OD transmission then use the 240 heads and a 4150 carb. If you are going to be racing the car and you want the extra power then use the 270 heads and a Dominator. But the big cam, big carb and big head combo isn't going to be very happy in OD on the freeway. There really isn't any way around this. When you design an engine you match the heads, intake, cam and carb so they all work together. When they all work together at 7000 rpm you have a race engine. When they all work together at 2000 rpm you have a truck engine. You have to decide which you want.

Carbureted I agree. EFI can result in the best of both, IMO.

Sounds like I have to talk to you about carburetors when that time comes......how do you prefer communication? I've always learned that solid roller do not last long when they have to idle at lower RPM's. Do you run bushed lifter bores? what type of lifter brand and modell du you run? also could you please co more in detail on the term "gentle lobes"? What is the spec on your lobes?

Call anytime.....760-900-3895....

Nothing, but respect for your builds, but after our local track closed I took my 512 lowdeck bracket racer, lowered the compression from 13.5:1 to 10.5:1, dumped the Stealth heads and added TF270s to bring the power back up. Running a 1050 Dominator on a deep port matched Indy single plane. The cam card is attached here. 727 trans with GV OD. The converter is 5500 rpm and there is no lack of fun on the street. In fact I can't get the smile off my face after driving it

I’m currently building a 400/470 with TF270’s up top. My build is a heavy car bracket race application. My theory on making the most of these heads was to open the valve as far as possible with moderate to short duration in order to take advantage of the flow capabilities while still building as much torque as possible to get a big car moving.
I called Howards and went through my goals and components and they agreed with my theory and spec’d one of their catalog cams that runs only 259/263 duration at .050, but with 1.6 rockers opens the valve to .680.
I’m still waiting on it, but I’m looking forward to the results.

Best cam on my pump gas 470 was 264/268. Anything smaller than that lost peak power. Anything bigger lost torque and power.

I am running a 511/tf 270 combo with a 5 speed. But I am using a proform 1050/4150. I think you about ar the limit for taking advantage of the 270 heads with a hydraulic roller. I am running a 265/269 .660 on 108 solid roller.
I do have to be going 75 mph to use 5th gear. But it’s not a big deal. I have 4.10 and a 30” tire. So I don’t much need the overdrive. The car has great street manners for a 750hp engine. I put 800 miles on it this summer. The gas mileage is terrible. And it does buck a little trying to idle through a parking lot. But it’s completely maneagable. It is a blast to drive.

You want a cam that gives you the power you want with your 5 speed. Since it won't like low rpm it's simple. Don't run it in 5th gear unless you're really going to be cranking up the cruise speed to welll over the limit. I'd run a solid roller and a bushed block.
Doug

A 5500 stall converter changes the combination completely from what the OP was asking about. The OP has a five speed manual transmission with OD. When you switch to an auto with a high stall converter then the engine can be a lot more radical since the torque converter slips. Your engine wouldn't work very well on the street with a manual OD transmission.

Sent you a pm.

Another option is change 5th gear. I went from the .68 to .82 and like it much better.

This illustrates that what’s perfectly streetable for one person, may seem totally unacceptable to another.

The OP sounds like he has other cars and has a feel for what he wants. He’s the only one who can really assess what’s acceptable for him.
He should just build it the way he wants.

If it doesn’t meet his expectations...... well, that’s how you learn.

You hit the nail right square on the head. Well said!

"...... well, that’s how you learn. "



over the almost 60 years i have been playing with this brand, my failures have taught me quite well. now if i can just remember them so i don't repeat.

I would think the mildly ported TF270's would be pretty close in flow numbers (=/- 10 cfm in the .300-.700 lift range) to my Chapman stage 6's that Fast flow tested many years ago now. IIRC mine flow 280+ at .400, 335-ish at .500 and 360+ at .600

My 517 runs a Larry Smith ported '337 intake and a Bullet HR with 264/268 @.050 and around .600 lift with 1.6 rockers. The only difference is my motor's static is about 11.5:1 and I run the cam in early at 102 ICL with a 108 spread. It's a beast at all RPM and I run a fairly tight 4400 stall 9 1/2" converter with 3.54 gears in a 4000 lb w/d 70 charger. It revs like a comp eliminator motor. I think with a 10.5 motor I'd drop down to something like a 255/259 Ultradyne solid street roller Roller with the .4033 endurance lobes....which would match my present .200-up lift durations and still be mild enough for street driving. You can get a 1.7:1 hughes rocker to take the advertised lift from .605 to .680 ish, that would be the way I'd go for your combo.

That said if I were running an O/D for 70 mph with my motor for sum 70 mph cruising the cam is probably a little big unless you're cruising at maybe 2800. I can't imagine trying to hook up my motor with a stick shift unless I could get a really wide gear pattern, there's just too much torque and the motor is too responsive for street tires to deal with.

With the value of 2nd gen Chargers through the roof I only cruise the car and don't really race it for fear of buckling the quarter panel seams so I'm going to de-tune it a bit and probably either sell this motor or drop it into something like a 71 coronet that I can beat on properly.

I'm not an expert on BB lifter galley oiling with rollers .......but isn't there an issue when the hydraulic lifter base goes much beyond about .400-ish lift? isn't that why they bush the lifter bores? to keep from reducing oil pressure/volume to the mains? I believe a small block is similar. I would think a cam that yields .680 lift with a 1.6 rocker would be.425 off the base circle. Please somebody jump in and tell me where the lift point is where the galley is exposed

This build is remarkably close to my 526" and I would mirror that it is incredibly responsive despite the bigger ports! I street drive it a lot and have no bottom end sogginess at all and freeway mileage isn't horrible (12-14 mpg). I have a Gear Vendor OD, 29" tires, and 4.30's out back and have no issues with convertor heat when using it on the freeway (I don't use it in the city at all). I also run a fairly tight 4400 stall 10" Ultimate convertor

Streetwize, I have similar flow numbers (mine flow 298@ .400, 340@ .500 370@ .600 and 380@700) and a similar Bullet cam as well except it is a solid roller(.715 w/1.6 110 spread installed at 105 262/269@.050) but I run an Indy manifold (also ported by Larry when he did the heads). If you could PM me if you have any kind of times you have been able to run with this combo (even from another car), I would appreciate it. I am running a 3900lb W/D '67 Coronet but I haven't had the car to the track yet with this combo (and I don't want to hijack the thread).

I never took this motor down the track mainly because I built a dedicated drag toy once the value of second gen Chargers started ramping way up. I built it with the intention of building a 69 Valiant post car but the Rocky came along and I went in another "small block" direction.

But the recipie is based on a couple other BB RB and B stroker motors i did...and I got some good advice from Steve Dulcich because he used the same heads on his 3rd place Engine Masters 470 that made i think 754 hp.

If your motor doesn't go well into the 10's it's definitely not the motor, I'm not a huge fan of the indy intake for a street driven car, even at 526" because it seems to have more of a "light switch" torque band.

I really like the 337 because it sits lower and the runners have excellent taper.

The build is well documented somewhere in Moparts, I conservatively estimate it makes ~720 with a wall to wall torque curve.

but going back to Kudarick's original question, I think your combo is pretty close to mine, I run a bullet HR 264/268 @050 0n 108 in at 102 and it revs to 6800 easily with Hughes 1.6 rockers. You can find videos of the motor on Youtube under Wizerulz. The OD might be a challenge though my motor gets happy around 2800 but it pulls really nice with 3.54 gears.

I'm actually thinking about going solid roller with a set of the BAM offset cup lifters to straighten out the pushrods a bit and something a bit smaller like the Ultradyne 259/263 @.050 with the .4033 endurance ramps and about .630 net lift, this would be a tad milder down low and even torquier at part throttle but should still rev just as high as my HR and with a lot less valvetrain mass. The better the heads are you don't really need to go as big on the cam IMHO for a mostly street driven car, the cam is basically putting the optimum powerband lower in the curve which is less stress on the block, how hard are you really gonna beat on it? Are you really gonna miss that extra 30HP at the very top of the range vs having the freight train torque and taking WOT when cruising 65mph in OD? The best cam is the one that best suits your driving needs, IMO many if not most stroker people overshoot this by 10-15 degrees for how they really drive their cars.