I’m putting together a 528 Hemi

It will be 10-1 comp

426 legend 1 heads

Ray Barton intake with a 1050 carb

What size cam would you run in this combo

Mostly street motor

You mention Ray Barton. Why not ask him for a recommendation? I turned to him for the cam in my 540 and have been very happy.

Know someone that went to Ray for cam (and rotating kit) on a 528 4-speed 10:1 with OE crossram/carb setup. He’s got standard E-Brock heads. He’s happy. Cam from Bullet.

Why legend heads on a mostly street motor?

I bought a Hemi block ,heads and valve covers from a friend

This is what he had

A lot of responses but no one willing to stick there neck out a little so here it goes.....
I have a similar combination as you have and this is what I did. I originally had an Indy solid roller cam 268/264 @ .050 .659/.636 lift . This cam in my opinion is a little on the large side but still streetable. I never had any lash issues and drive this car frequently so I would not be concerned about any kind of maintenance or lash adjustments. With all that being said I recently converted over to Sequential port fuel injection and this cam works OK but does not generate enough vacuum to run in Speed density mode where I really want it to run.

My new "Street" cam is the one pictured below. The duration and lobe family I selected is aggressive enough to not give up to much of anything compared to the Indy cam but still have some lift to take advantage of the flow characteristics of the heads. The lobe separation angle is a little on the wide size but for me I need that to reduce overlap and build vacuum. I think this cam would work well in a carb application as well.

For valve springs in a street application with this lift I would select a really good endurance spring with at least a rate of 500 lb/in to no more than 550 lb/in and a seat load of at least 200 lbs to no more than 250 lbs,.... Generally speaking. The valvetrain will live a long life with minimal adjustments. The last set of Edelbrock heads I did I selected Howards Pacaloy P/N 98543 and installed them at 1.900 with 240 lbs at the seat and 600 lbs open. On my Indy heads with a taller installed height I have used Isky Special Process (SP) spring SP9365. There are other comparable options out there...

I would not even consider a flat tappet cam considering the issues with rounding the lobes and oil compatibility and just the quality inconsistencies out there with the success rate being hit or miss at best. I think a hydraulic roller in this application is not a good idea because the valve train is simply to missive to run the spring package necessary for the type of lobe lift these heads need to breath. The best thing you could do is invest in a quality set of roller lifters like Crower HIPPOS, BAM, or whatever the new flavor of the month is..... If the block is bushed than it may require a different style lifter as well depending if you want oil to the axle or not.

AG.

"I would not even consider a flat tappet cam considering the issues with rounding the lobes and oil compatibility and just the quality inconsistencies out there with the success rate being hit or miss at best."

And you sure never hear of any problems with the "new flavor of the month" rollers, do you? I have had the tool steel FTSs in my street Hemi for 6 years now which I bought used and had refaced. No special oil, just Valvoline. The only precaution I do is to pre-lube the engine at every cold start with the Accusump.

There is a lot of junk out there today. Cams, lifters, springs, etc. Choose wisely and either flat or roller can do good street duty. There are at least as many successful street Hemi engine builds using flat tappets as there are using rollers.

Just get a cam spec'd by Dwayne Porter and be done. I'd go solid roller...just my preference. I don't like worrying about losing lobes. Just had Dwayne spec a solid roller for my BB chevy street truck, lol.
Go big and make it run. Nobody likes a show poodle.

I'm surprised you're having troubles. I run a 262/262 112lsa cam in my 438" Hemi and no problems with running in SD or power brakes.

My Big cam is on a tighter LSA, more overlap, less vacuum. I have it tuned in Alpha-N, runs great but would prefer speed density.
AG.

How big is your cam and motor Chip


I was thinking 660/260 or 680/270

10-1 comp

474 -528 ci motor


Need to get rotating assembly

Mine was a 572, now 575. Had to go .010" bigger last time.
Cam is a solid roller...276/284 at .050". .672"/.651" lift. It's a mild lobe, but makes good power. Mid 9s at a buck forty on motor at 3800 lbs. Well into the 8s on a little nitrous.
I like em rowdy. To me, a weekend fun car isn't supposed to sound like a station wagon. The cam in my truck is bigger than one posted above and in an engine about 100 cubes smaller.
Lifter selection is where a lot of people cheap out and then complain about reliability. My hemi has a good set of Isky Red Zone lifters in it. They've been flawless for years.
My Chevy has a cheaper set of Comp Cams lifters, but I don't expect them to live forever. I'll change em out after a while and keep going.
Weak springs and/or real aggressive lobes will also kill lifters. All compromises and things to pay attention to. All the more reason to call Dwayne. He's a wealth of knowledge on every aspect of cam selection. Making power is just part of it...having something that doesn't eat itself every 50 runs is another.

What are the rocker arm ratios on a Hemi

1.5 ?

The stock rocker arms vary from 1.42 ratio on the intakes up to 1.55, the exhaust stock ductile iron rockers are worst
I check around six stock OEM sets back in the day and found out how bad they really are
I heard of Rocker Arm Specialty that use to blueprint and accurize ductile iron rocker arms shortly after selling that race car, they use to be in Cottonwood, CA before they sold out, the new owners move the shop back east and ended up going bankrupt several years later, why I do not know
Shop around to see if anyone is still doing that kind of work, or buy new good quality race ones

Solid roller, around .650 lift net, around 268-264@ .050 on a 112lca would be what I think you'd want for a mostly street driven build...

This will work nicely.....Very nice choice....

This is very similar to what Crower recommended to me for the 528 that I'm putting together.

I called Dwayne Porter and ordered a solid roller camshaft for my 540 hemi that I'm building for mostly street, and some drag racing too. I had a very positive experience with Dwayne and he also helped me spec out the supporting valvetrain components for the camshaft which is just as important as choosing the right cam profile.

I did NOT want a tame camshaft that sounded stock, but I also didn't want an engine that only comes alive from 4500-7000rpm which is what you get when you have a ton of duration. Big duration cams make power at higher rpm and need a loose converter to take advantage of the rpm range. Those cams are best suited for a drag car, and they'll undoubtedly make more power than a cam like mine. When you're driving on the street, especially cruising, you're usually in the 2000-3000 rpm range. A big duration cam isn't making efficient power at that low of an rpm, and so things like throttle response and fuel economy will suffer in comparison to a smaller duration profile. The last thing you want is a big nasty expensive engine that makes a bunch of noise but doesn't move like it sounds when you punch the throttle. I went with a cam that has 260 degrees of duration at .050" lift which Dwayne suggested would be acceptable, but pushing it a bit for a true street engine of this configuration. Another consideration in all of this is cubic inches. The larger the engine the more duration it needs to achieve the desired power-band. A well built 440ci with a 252 duration at .050 cam may pull hard to 6800 or so, but you'd need a lot more duration in a 540ci to achieve the same rpm characteristics. There are other factors here, like timing, gearing, compression etc, but I'm speaking in general terms.

Before I choose a converter or gearing for my E body, I'm going to dyno the engine and look at the power-band. I'm hoping my 540 begins making good power by 3000rpm and pulls to 6200+ rpm. That would be a fairly wide power-band, that with a low enough gear should be very responsive on the street and at the track too. The dyno sheet will help me decide which components will work best with the engine and allow me to get the most enjoyment and performance out of my engine. That's my goal.

If you're unsure, call Dwayne and let him help you choose a good profile, he'll get it ordered up for you.

Do you think 680/270 to big for 10.1 comp on a street motor

No.

No.....But its no subtle either....What's beautiful about a Hemi, is its resistance to detonation....I would turn the compression up to 12:1 or 13:1 if I was building it as a pro-street or a little raced street car. If you keep the timing in check, you will never have an issue.