What rear main seal you guys using lately. I need something for my BMP aluminum block.

Is this race only and vacuum pump? Or street and gen use?

If race only and with a pump, i would recommend the multi piece seal from Tritek? (I think). They supply most if not all the nascar shops. Installed reverse for vacuum (lips pointing outside) it seals very well.

If street strip with no vacuum pump, I use the viton orange seal. The retainer is a whole other discusdion that you can find all over the net

Mostly street deal, no vac pump. Thanks

I run the orange Viton seal.
Measure where the lip of the seal aligns on the crank and adjust as necessary. Most leaks are from the two halves of the seal being out of alignment with one another.

Call SCE and get several Vitos from them
661-728-9200
I seal all the side seal joints up completely with w good brand (I like and use Permatex now ) of adhesive silicone, NOT gasket maker

I bought one of the billet ones from Mancini and that pos leaked from day one. I then heard they need to have about .020 removed from the parting surface because they were made too tall. We removed it and measured. Sure enough. It was too tall. Put the stock one back and problem solved.

Ok, so you dont use the side seals that come with the rear main seal? Would Right Stuff be ok to use on the sides of the retainer?

I used Mancini's billet rear seal kit on my 511 build. I clocked the seal to 12 and 6 o'clock as Monte had suggested. Didn't leak a drop the first season. It has a constant drip since. I want to be sure to get this correct this go around. Thanks guys

a gut reaction would be that if the engine wasn't occasionally turned over during the off season, maybe the seal slightly stuck to the crank, causing it to tear ever so slightly or deform a tiny bit, causing the leak ?
as to using the right stuff, i wouldn't use that myself.
as i think Cab [?] said, a clear silicone "adhesive" is the stuff to use.
"adhesive" needs to be on the label.
https://rainbowtech.net/wp-content/uploads/88000-Clear-RTV-Silicone.jpg
i like this stuff, but i'm sure there are other products out there that are like this.

OK, so use silicone adhesive and no side seals?

remember, i'm no engine builder.
however with that said, i have seen countless recommendations to fill the side areas with silicone "adhesive".
another tip to do with the rear seal retainer is drill out the bolt holes a size or two [depending on how the block threads are positioned and the seal retainer holes are drilled] to allow the retainer to center the seal on the crank, and thus the bolts can be tightened without moving the seal to one side or the other, causing the seal to be deformed.

No Use the side seals and silicone them full (both sides of the rear main seal holder, drivers and passenger sides :wrench) from the crankshaft flywheel flange side, I use a thin narrow putty knife to fill them from the sides of the crank shaft flange

ok, ill do that

Align the seal retainer flush with the rear of the block, snug it down then look and see if the grooves line up.

I have used the one piece seal from Fast Fish Auto Parts. No leaks or sealing issues on a 470 stroker.

I fill the sides with rtv, then I shove a piece of precut 3/32 or 1/8 welding rod in there and it forces the rtv out slightly. I like seeing the expanded bead on retainer from top to bottom of the edge gap. Just my twist on this personal subject. I also put the seal in 12/6. And I wouldn't drill the holes seems that could add to the alignment issue. I have reduced the height slightly by flat sanding/milling approximately .010 off for a little extra crush. Most of the time its just the black rubber seal.

A piece of pipe cleaner moistened with water works better, RTV cures by exposure to moisture.

Dave , is this for your new block ? doesn't the rear main on the BM block incorporate the seal into the cap like the Indy block ? As far as a seal I use the black w/ orange stripe felpro seal I had left over from an old kit . No leaks in 2 years yet . Gary

A piece of pipe cleaner moistened with water works better, RTV cures by exposure to moisture.....

As Joe K indicates above... this is very critical... In fact, if you read the installation instructions from Fel-Pro sets, its exactly what they say... I wrote those instructions when I worked for Fel-Pro.[i][/i]

I used the blue silicone side seals that came with the Viton main seal. The ends of the seals got a little red Permatex adhesive. It looks like Loctite not RTV.

If you drop the seal in the block then slide the retainer with seal in place you can look through the crank hole and see how the seals line up fore/aft. That will give you a good idea of what to do.

Other than that, you need to put a little oil/grease/assy lube on the crank and test fit the rear main. Give the crank a quarter turn or less and check the witness marks in the lube. You can see if the ends of the seal are lining up properly.

If they're not lined up perfectly then none of the above tricks will work. It will leak.