That would be me. People taking it farther than I have like that orange procharged challenger with a 383, or the totally home built avenger with a turbo.

I preached the importance of ignition timing and benefits of distributorless programmable ignition for years on this board to be ridiculed and doubted by the vast majority of users on this board.
Now 15 years later, it has become acceptable here to embrace technology that has been available for years.
It was explained to me years ago by Kenny D that it’s real easy to keep an engine alive if you time it to keep the crank rolling forward instead of pushing it down. This is an easy rule to follow with a turbocharged engine. There is no need to maximize timing to make power. All you need to do is turn up the boost.
The weak link in my situation (400block/ 3.90 stroke 7000-7200 rpm shift) was the cylinder bores. They were shaped like beer kegs after years of making more power than I was told was possible. Still made good reliable power, but it ate rings every season.

The stock RB blocks, all of the passenger car production blocks, have thinner main webbing than any of the stock 400 blocks came with
I've seen 5 RB blocks with cracks in the main webbing between #1 and #3 cylinders, no cracks in any 400 block so far
If your going to make a Mopar BB race motor that makes north of 750 HP on gasoline buy a new race block to start with

I "invented" this years ago, only to discover that my factory-turbocharged Toyota 2JZ Supra engine already has it!

jwb123 - What are the bore / stroke / rod length for each combination? I'll take a s.w.a.g. the 500 was 4.380", 4.15" and 6.76"...

The stock RB blocks, all of the passenger car production blocks, have thinner main webbing than any of the stock 400 blocks came with
I've seen 5 RB blocks with cracks in the main webbing between #1 and #3 cylinders, no cracks in any 400 block so far
If your going to make a Mopar BB race motor that makes north of 750 HP on gasoline buy a new race block to start with

Decided to check out the price of aftermarket blocks as a tangent to this topic: https://billmitchellproducts.com/product-category/engine-blocks/mopar-big-block-2/

OK, anybody else surprised that the Mopar / Callies cast iron blocks are $400 more than the BMP aluminum blocks? And that's for about 170 lbs more weight, too.

i got 20 months or so out of my 440/505 with 7.1 rods. Daily driver , interstate and raced a lot. I season foot brake 1 season trans brake . My machinest said he knew it would split but that was a little earlier than he expected .
I wont go stock block stroker again . I lucked out finding a new in box World iron block . The extea 90lbs hmmm
Tex

540 was 4.5 bore 4.25 stroke 7.1 inch rod 1.67 rod stroke ratio
500 was 4.38 bore 4.150 stroke 6.760 rod 1.63 rod stroke ratio
from my memory.

If and when I decide I want and have the money to spend on an aftermarket block i’m going Hemi. It surprises me that so many people buy wedge blocks, but I know, they already have a bunch of wedge parts.

I've been able to make more HP per C.I.N/A with wedge motors with good heads, B1 originals well prepared, than any N/A street hemi motor I've built, maybe I'm stupid when it comes to making a hemi Humm