If I did this right, it MAY show one of my time trial runs from the 2021 Mile Highs.

Nice light Hard up on the hill, only place I could not run 150 in street. Is it even on the stop there? if so you are at a really high rpm looked like it sat at 6K for a blip or two.

Al as you know I was not one of the faster SG racers, so about 3 years ago I decided to run slow at the finish, but not using a top end stop. So no stop timer at the line, just adjusting the stop opening to run the number. At 9.90 tracks we run around 135 MPH and in Denver 127. There are some racers out there that have had pretty good success with slow finish line speeds, but hard to do consistently. And if you're set up on the quick side, nearly impossible to judge if/when to brake when a guy is coming from behind you going 40 MPH faster. I also have to go thru some mathematical gyrations to make any sense of prediction software. Therefore, thinking of going more "conventional" next year.

Sounds like a very solid plan to me that more and more folks are using. The few national events I ran in S/C I was stopping up top at 119-121. Figured why be the guy at 165-7 and being a "sitting duck" for the faster cars. IMO a 5-15 MPH difference at the top end is the exact WRONG place to be. Makes judging the stripe for the faster guys MUCH easier. I know it did for me.

i edited your post to imbed your video as well....

Just for some perspective since that last video i posted was closing on a 120mph car here is one against a 150mph car with me chasing him.

Another great video Al, and thanks for fixing mine up. So were you successful when running "slow" in Super Comp? Was it too much of a change from what you were used to? Here are some things that I don't have to worry about when running my car the way I currently have it set up: 1) Spinning the tires when coming off the stop 2) Inconsistent convertor flash when coming off the stop 3) Jumping on the brakes hard at 160+ MPH. 4) RPM creep on the stop. Also, pretty easy on my motor when only running up to 6K RPM or so. And another question: for guys using down track throttle stop--are they closing it down completely at the top end? Wouldn't that be hard on rods, wrist pins, pistons, etc?

mine was on the stop at the stripe. We tried turning it back on way up top and that was no bueno with track conditions at a national event past the 1000'. After trying top crash a couple times I had to go back to just being on the stop and hoping I got it right. I did try running S/C the traditional way and felt like a duck at 165ish. No I did not have alot of success but I also never really worked on it unless we ran S/C at a national event at the event otherwise car was always on a the S/ST number even bracket racing. AS you know Data is king with this stuff and I never just worked on it. I plan to do the same with the truck, S/C at nationals where S/St is not run, like Vegas. My car laid very flat on the stop even at 5.5 seconds in great air. At most it would creep 50ish rpm. No issues with converter coming off as it was WAY tight for the combo and that seemed to work for me. Had no issues with traction coming off with a traditional set up. I run an air stop with an adjustable opening rate and it took 1.1 seconds to fully open, that kept it happy other than trying it up top.

An aluminum block, 540 cubes, ported 440-1 heads or similar will get you 800 hp with an easy on parts cam with maybe . 750 lift, 280/290/110 duration. I would go bushed lifters and rockers. Needle bearings are trouble. I liked the Isky RR 735 cam, .760 lift with 1.55 rockers. With methanol injection, at about 13.5 compression I dynoed 847 hp and went 8.77 at 153 mph at 3000 lbs. That was a megablock 528. I would guess a 528 or 540 using a 4.500 bore will be easier on bearings and crank. Bigger would be nice, but might not have the life between rebuilds that a well used race car needs.

Well at S/ST weight that 153 might net you mid 140's or so depending on how you have the stop set up. Definitely takes power in these classes to put up big MPH no doubt. We have a very good friend who we have helped with his B1 deal and S/ST set up who has been 8.70's all out and once in a blue moon if the air is great he can tickle 150 at 3000lbs. Roger has the advantage of being able to weight alot less. Not sure exactly what he weighs but the S/G minimum is 2200lbs so an honest 800HP would net home some decent MPH, but these days there are cars going over 180 with regularity in SG. If it were me I would be looking to get as close to that minimum as possible so no question an aluminum block would be used.

I may be re-thinking my situation. Last time I weighed I was 2265 with me and about 70 lbs of ballast. Looks like 800 HP would get me in the 160-165 range at 9.90 tracks. HOWEVER, besides the bigger motor, I would probably be looking at a taller rear gear, bigger tires, new throttle stop with adjustable opening speed, probably new convertor, and also some items I'm not thinking of. James Kunkel, who was 2020 Super Comp champ in Div. 5 (door car that stops down to 100 MPH at the stripe) has recommended that I try stopping mine on the top end, I could run pretty much the same stuff I've got now. It would not only save me a ton of money, but also all the work that would be required in the off-season to be ready for testing before the 2023 season. Looks like WHP in PHX will be holding their last NHRA event next March, I am hoping to attend.

I have always said one way or the other is a better option, be the fast guy or the slow guy. At least you are running the same race every pass rather than switching from chasing to being chased. Just my humble opinion though. I am hoping to be ready for Wildhorse myself. I will be a duck but since I live in a place with no tracks, and one that is rarely used and only for 1/8 mile brackets anymore I will have zero info. Trial by fire it is.