I've been researching ladder bar designs, has anyone used the Chassis Engineering Outlaw ladder bar?

https://www.chassisengineering.com/product/c-e3606-outlaw-adjustable-ladder-bar-pair/

I have always liked the Quarter Max design, which has be "re-interpretted" by companies like TRZ.

Just getting some ideas whilst I plan my build

Cheers

How long are those bars on that kit?
My old foot brake Duster had a set of 32.0 inch long ladder bars with only three holes in the body cross member that the ladder bars hooked up to, Leaf spring car with floaters also, that car ran the quickest and fastest in the bottom hole I think it had 3 way adjustable Completion Engineering rear shocks, 70/30, 80/20 and 90/10. Way better choices today
Looking back now I had a lot of fun with that car and made some money with it also

They seem to have a few nice advantages. Being the upper bar adjusts pinion angle, there is a greater range of travel before bind. (though I've never had any trouble with my std style lower bar adjustment) The axle brackets are beefy surrounding the entire tube. Numerous shock attaching locations for ride height. The fact that the bars can bolt to the housing at two different locations means absolutely nothing. It makes zero difference where the ladder bar is attached to the housing. I've used these for years. Never an issue. The 36" were chosen for my intended power level and wheelbase. 32" may be better with less power and a short wheelbase.
Doug

https://swracecars.com/product/ladder-bars-36-double-adjustable-with-moly-rod-ends/

I have seen a lot of ladder bar cars work really well, and some not so good. Thing is once it is welded under the car you have limited adjustability. If you spring for the extra money and do a 4-link you can adjust for about anything, including down the road when you make upgrades like a bigger engine, lighten up the car etc. etc.

Most of the time ladder bars need some downward angle in them to try and take away some antisquat and hit. Those short bars probably especially so.

I have used the RJ stuff a number of times and always been happy with them. FWIW the Vette is a ladder bar car as well and has a traditional adjustable bar and they seem to work ok..1.09 60' on a 29.5x10.5 with and NA SB. We do have wrap around brackets on them

check out Kevin Wilsons videos on anti squat, instant center , purcentage of rise. Theres also a form you can print when you scale the car. great info!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmjieeSov4Q

Just out of curiousity Al, what style of shock are you running on Ryan's car? I am assuming a 4 way adjustable of some kind?

i have a "stoopid old man" question about the rod ends on ladder bars.
i know the front heims need to rotate when the bolt is tightened, therefor the best nylon [?] lined joint should be used.
however, can the heims on the rear end brackets be solid, as they do not rotate, or should they be rotational ones like the front in case there is some deflection/twist in the rear housing ?
the reason for asking, i have seen setups both ways, some used as street/strip, some street only, some strip only.
i haven't heard of any failures, but then, i do not know what the maintenance/replacement interval is, nor the amount of passes/street miles they are run.
a big TIA to those way smarter than this old goof.

Nope. Its a double adjustable Penske. We are not allowed by NMCA to use any electronic or air adjustments down track.

All the rod ends should be the best quality Teflon lined ones you can afford in all three positions......I prefer FK made in America stuff personally.

Is this on the M/T 3062s tire?

My ladder bars use solid rod ends at the housing. No reason not to. Now a 4 link would be a different story. The ladder bars and housing should ideally be one complete stiff member with zero movement. As with anything, it does move around, but it's not intended. For the front buy the best you can get. And thread them in as far as possible. Only unthread them a turn or so to square up the housing.
Doug

Yes sir it is with tubes and double beadlocks Seems to really like the tubes which we were stubborn about trying. Our best 60' W/O tubes as 1.15. But that was also with different shocks.

"All the rod ends should be the best quality Teflon lined ones you can afford in all three positions......I prefer FK made in America stuff personally." [Al Alguire]



i agree with both statements above. both suggest buying the best ends out there, as i do.
Doug says to use solid ends on the housing, while Al says to use the teflon lined ends. so i'm not sure what i will do. my "eternal project" [1933 dodge humpback panel truck] has the best quality FK lined ends on the front [3/4"] and the diagonal link [5/8"], while the rear link ends are solid. i also have the FK ends for the anti-roll bar links. [we are talking ladder bar setup here, 32" length, although the wheel base on this thing is 122"]

i am also of the opinion, any rod ends used [in any position] should have the maximum amount of the threads used [minimum threads showing] so as to be as strong as possible.

I think I have got Aurora or FK sitting there, I bought them quite a while ago and they've sat waiting for me to use them.

What size tubing are people using for their diagnonal link? A wishbone just seems needlessly heavy and complicated.

i am using 1" diameter, 1/8" wall thickness DOM tube, with bungs for 5/8" rod ends.