the throttle shaft was loose when getting to the shop. 23 mile run. Took the carb off and put a race base plate on it (only thing available) and the carb ran at 2000rpm and stalled at 1800. definetely not good. looked at the original base after about an hour and the throttle shaft was solid as concrete. Explains why it stalls after getting to temp. The race base wouldn't work so I have the original back on to get home. Looking to get a new carb as why throw money into parts for a 27 year old carb that has seen better days

They make bushing kits for the throttle shafts......I've never done one but it might be worth a shot if the carb otherwise works the way you like:

https://www.google.com/search?q=hol...86j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

All things that ran good at one time can be fix to run good again, the heard part is figuring out what wore our or went bad to cause the repair issue
You can fix it, don't GIVE UP You can fix it

Well...the new carb didn't fix the problem.

I believe I finally found the problem. My alternator belt always was not real tight but I had no problems with the battery charging enough to keep it starting with no problems. So a friend said that possibly at idle the alternator is not putting out enough to support the ECU and it cuts out at idle. This would confirm why it never did during warmup(higher idle) or when in neutral at a high idle. So I start to pull the alternator and get it loose and turn to get a tool off the bench and when turning around I see the interior of My car is full of smoke. Alot . So I now disconnect the battery and see the GM 108 amp alt slid down and grounded the hot wire to My block.

I remove the alt...get it checked and it checks ok. I change the half ass mounting bracket for the alt and install it and get a very tight belt. After changing a few wires under the dash and installing a new amp gauge,the car fires up..(starts) and I take it out for a long run and no stalling at any light. Been out a few times and no stalling. So I assume the belt was not tight enough to supply a good charge at idle and that caused the ECU to quit.

All of this...new carb...fuel pump...fuel filter...for naught. But replacing that 27 year old carb with a new Proform seems like I picked up a bunch of more power. Like that's needed with a 472 Hemi.

I posted this because IF someone has a similar problem...this is something to check. I got a lot of responses to this problem, and I appreciate all and MOPARTS for the help.

OK...I'm back as terzmo and Checker is temporarily sidelined. Thanks again for all the input

"That also doesn't make sense as the car should have kept running off the battery "confused shruggy I can only assume by interrupting the voltage or running a negitive charge because of loose belt, the ECU would shut down at idle speed.( I have seen meters go to the negitive side at low idles) Electronics have an operating input and output threshold . All's I know is after doing all the other changes, nothing fixed it. Even by shorting the alt and burning wires, the alt checked good at a long time experienced electric shop. ( I was shocked it checked good and still putting out 108 amp-s plus) I have taken the car out about 5 times on decent rides and it has yet to quit.

1955 work as well ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115491061377?hash=item1ae3cdbe81:g:FHwAAOSwNNli9E3t&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsKk1sDtPwSGytc%2F76Kq0P4RzO9xPwi03NWCaOzvGf6Ho%2Fka7Ud8vyX2%2B8LOsjWNDkWXp6VVNLiCqyteYoPKwIZ3c0OGyW2UZ6i36BccALXZ0FE0Ck8qjunEvpE3V%2FdiIrRrMJOgh7Y2yJlS5evQBShDkVUcCnThHlHDodOF%2BqRJSmHAUERgCtH9H1xmH1v5tIJcIqw%2BMtZHRChTQpmA4O8vuNw6mcK6%2F%2BNVHJMh%2FO7Fs%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Dc1pnzYA

another one listed on same page but scroll down further

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115491061377?

this better ?


well, no, it ain't.............
that link is to a ferd truck [?] script badge.......